Standard Fork Upgrade Service Guide

[Roger Ditchfield]

I always recognise the important part that the ladies can play in a motorcycle enthusiasts life

[Roger Ditchfield]

Fastest possible return, I've heard this before but in my experience you'll get a bouncy bike that weaves doing it this way, I set a lot of bike suspension up and always set them to return at about the same rate at which you can compress them (forks and shock) then fine tune from there either to suit the type of rider or by feed back. It is important that they do not return too slowly though. Also I statically check rear rebound with some loading as well as unloaded so I can see what it's like in the working range of the stroke.

Not to start/fuel an argument here, but there is a great deal of meaning in the wording of, "fastest possible return, but under control"... Basically, I'd take it to mean roughly what you said... About as fast as you can compress them with a swift push, or perhaps a smidgen faster, but certainly not just as fast as possible...

It is important that the wheels, both front and rear, return to the ground as quickly as possible as you can neither steer or accelerate with the wheels in the air. However, the return speed must have sufficient "drag" not to allow the forks or damper to "top out" harshly. Too much Rebound can make the bike feel better at slower speeds but can mask other high speed issues. Heavy rebound damping will cause straight line weaving as well as difficulty with quick changes of direction especially at chicanes.

[Tweety]

Fastest possible return, I've heard this before but in my experience you'll get a bouncy bike that weaves doing it this way, I set a lot of bike suspension up and always set them to return at about the same rate at which you can compress them (forks and shock) then fine tune from there either to suit the type of rider or by feed back. It is important that they do not return too slowly though. Also I statically check rear rebound with some loading as well as unloaded so I can see what it's like in the working range of the stroke.

Not to start/fuel an argument here, but there is a great deal of meaning in the wording of, "fastest possible return, but under control"... Basically, I'd take it to mean roughly what you said... About as fast as you can compress them with a swift push, or perhaps a smidgen faster, but certainly not just as fast as possible...

It is important that the wheels, both front and rear, return to the ground as quickly as possible as you can neither steer or accelerate with the wheels in the air. However, the return speed must have sufficient "drag" not to allow the forks or damper to "top out" harshly. Too much Rebound can make the bike feel better at slower speeds but can mask other high speed issues. Heavy rebound damping will cause straight line weaving as well as difficulty with quick changes of direction especially at chicanes.

Roger, I pretty much think we are all trying to say the same things with different words... I understand perfectly what you mean...

Fast but controlled movement, no top bouncing, no wallowing, but clear and crisp movement... (How many more ways can we come up with... )

[VTRDark]

Heavy rebound damping will cause straight line weaving as well as difficulty with quick changes of direction especially at chicanes.

I experienced this on the rear. At first I thought my tyre pressure was low, it wasn't. I took some of the rebound off and it's much better now.

(:-})

[Geordie]

Great write up ! but please don't ever put waste oil into the drains or sewers !!!! I can tell you via my job that it causes incredible problems when mixed all the other crap that folk flush into the sewers, the main reason why we have flooding !!
Sorry to appear anal but hope people read this. !! Maybe delete that pic ?!!!

Geordie

[Diabolus]

rounded off the hex bolt off the fork lowers help !

[E.Marquez]

rounded off the hex bolt off the fork lowers help !

The socket head cap screw?

?

If so, ,hmm, you can drill or mil the head off the cap screw..

Or there is a cave man method I've seen work on other destroyed socket head cap screws .... take a torx bit, that is larger then the hex socket.. pound that torx bit into the hex... and turn to remove.

[lloydie]

Yep smack one in :-) I've had to do that a few times

[rollingthunderx2]

Just Don't put waste oil down the drains folks, no excuses.
Its not cooking fat.
Don't put engine oil down the drain either, save it and recycle it at the council tip.
Londoners.......... I blame their environment.

[VTRDark]

Exxon employed me I like the idea of using a torx bit. Better still if the bit is in an impact driver I would have thought.

(:-})

[Diabolus]

rounded off the hex bolt off the fork lowers help !

The socket head cap screw?

?

If so, ,hmm, you can drill or mil the head off the cap screw..

Or there is a cave man method I've seen work on other destroyed socket head cap screws .... take a torx bit, that is larger then the hex socket.. pound that torx bit into the hex... and turn to remove.

thats the one torx bit was my first idea but mine were too small, tried drilling and using a reverse thread screw in remover but gave up, off too my mates tomorrow who has a pillar drill and give some larger torx bits a bash first.
whats the part nos for the replacement bolts or do you just use some s/s type?

[E.Marquez]

whats the part nos for the replacement bolts or do you just use some s/s type?

Any decent quality graded fastener M8x27mm (id go with known quality 10.9) will do, or PN 90116-383-721 "BOLT, SOCKET

If I were you Id replace the 8mm copper washer as well, as you have been beating on that screw.
90544-283-000 WASHER

[Diabolus]

my mate got it out with the aid of a suitable size Torx bit, hammer and vice in less than a minute. New bolts ordered from ds (£8.50) and will re-anel the washers.

[Diabolus]

after pricing up hammerite + undercoat for Hammerite approx £20 + time and the weathers cold for spraying (would need to heat my workspace) fumes ect....
I've decided to get the fork lowers powder coated by http://www.classic-coatings.co.uk/ I took the parts to show them exactly where to coat and where not too, he quoted me £30 for the pair in matt black
Should be done by next wednesday will post some pics

[E.Marquez]

after pricing up hammerite + undercoat for Hammerite approx £20 + time and the weathers cold for spraying (would need to heat my workspace) fumes ect....
I've decided to get the fork lowers powder coated by http://www.classic-coatings.co.uk/ I took the parts to show them exactly where to coat and where not too, he quoted me £30 for the pair in matt black
Should be done by next wednesday will post some pics

By chance did you ask him to plug or tape off the fork leg (inside) BEFORE he media blasts the outer leg?