Glad you got it together......
One more "tip" for you.
Take an old rag and put it between the rear sprocket and the bottom chain run.
Now rotate the wheel so the rag jams between the chain and sprocket. Do this a couple of times and then rotate the wheel forward so the rag is free again.
What this does is first pull the axle up tight against the adjusters and also move all the slack in the chain to the bottom run.
Now check the slack in the chain. For me, I have always just pushed down on the chain where it passes over the link pipe.
If it hits the pipe, its too loose. clears the pipe by around 3-5mm or so, perfect doesn't come close to the pipe, too tight.
This is done either on whatever stand you use side, rear, abba it doesn't matter as you just want the suspension unloaded as this is when the chain is at its loosest.
As soon as you sit on the bike it will tighten up.
So this gives you, just by eyeballing and no need to try and measure anything, enough slack so nothing binds yet still tight enough to not hit anything ( and no way to come off if that is a concern)
This is important as it is always better to run a bike chain drive on the loose side. As the rear suspension compresses and the chain tightens because the swingarm pivot and the coutershaft are at different points so you get different arcs as the swingarm moves.
So if you don't have enough slack the suspension will bind when the chain runs out of slack. This not only wears your chain and sprocket set out quicker it also put the load directly on to the coutershaft bearing and seal each time it binds.
Which means you can do a lot of damage by running a chain too tight.
One this bike there is no way to run the chain loose enough to fly off with out it dragging on the link pipe at all times, and you really should be able to hear the chain trying to saw through the link pipe well before then.....
Sorry to ramble but don't know if this has been covered and it is kind of important.
To get the chain slack set, take up some slack with the adjusters, always measure to make sure the axle is square in the swingarm, don't just trust the marks on adjusters. All the VTR ones I have seen have been good but you never know until you check them.
Then use the rag method to set the axle against the adjuster and check the slack. Once you get it set once again use the rag to pull the axle forward and hold it there while you tighten the axle.
After it is torqued down, remove the rag and double check the adjusters are snug and your good to go.
Another quick way to test the chain slack is to push the bike. It should make no noise. If you hear the chain running over the sprockets, it is a good chance it is too tight.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
I like it, where there's a means there is a way. I might try that the next time the ground is wet.
