Rear Suspension Problem (I Think)

[Wicky]

If you don't want to drop the shock out then leave it be….

but if you want to get at why it was squeaking then you might want to get it out for a thorough inspection.

[mattycoops43]

If the top of the shock is squeaking, I would definitely drop it out and have a look, is it possible the top joint can seize? you wouldn't want it failing.

[darkember]

If the top of the shock is squeaking, I would definitely drop it out and have a look, is it possible the top joint can seize? you wouldn't want it failing.

Please listen, I only need to do the bottom link assembly. My shock is fine. To do the bottom linkage assembly DO I NEED TO LOOSEN THE TO BOLT ON THE TOP OF THE SHOCK FIRST.
Sorry about the caps, but I am not getting a straight answer to this question.

[lloydie]

No just the lower bolts .

[darkember]

No just the lower bolts .

Thank you Lloydie

[mattycoops43]

Well I have had success of sorts. Haven't fixed the problem yet, but at least I know where it is coming from now. I thought it was coming from the battery carrier box where it fits on the thin bar welded across the frame. So I sprayed all around that area with a can of WD40 with a tube nozzle fitted so I could direct the spray to the specific area. Alas -- no cigar there.

So then I proceeded to spray different portions of the rear suspension. First I sprayed around where the upper end of the spring fits to the top part of the rear shock. Again no cigar. I then sprayed around the top bolt and the area the top bolt goes through where it is attached to the frame behind the fuel tank -- wonder of wonders. No more noise when working the rear suspension up and down once I had sprayed this area with the WD40.

Thanks for ALL tips and advice given.

Sorry, I was TRYING TO HELP. You said the noise was coming from the top of the shock, there was then a whole discussion on how to get the top of the shock unattached from the frame.

[VTRDark]

It was me who said to loosen (not remove) the top nut. Reason being the lower linkage will still have a little strain on it from being slightly compressed even with the rear of the bike off the ground. This makes it harder to pull bottom linkage bolts out. If the the top nut is loosened then the strain is gone so bolts slide right out with no fuss.

(:-})

[darkember]

Ok I will go with Cyber & loosen the top bolt

[thunderbolt]

Great info, thanks guys.

[8541Hawk]

Remember there is a baring in the top shock eye so whilst you are doing the rest of the checking & greasing it's worth checking that at well.

If the top of the shock is squeaking, I would definitely drop it out and have a look, is it possible the top joint can seize? you wouldn't want it failing.

Great advice except for this bit.

It is a common misconception but the top mount is not a bearing and is actually a solid mounting point that does not move.

The stock shock makes it easy to make this mistake as it sure looks like it should move but that is not the case.

So if the upper mount is not torqued down properly or the upper mounting eye has failed and is now moving, that could be causing the noise.

[darkember]

Remember there is a baring in the top shock eye so whilst you are doing the rest of the checking & greasing it's worth checking that at well.

If the top of the shock is squeaking, I would definitely drop it out and have a look, is it possible the top joint can seize? you wouldn't want it failing.

Great advice except for this bit.

It is a common misconception but the top mount is not a bearing and is actually a solid mounting point that does not move.

The stock shock makes it easy to make this mistake as it sure looks like it should move but that is not the case.

So if the upper mount is not torqued down properly or the upper mounting eye has failed and is now moving, that could be causing the noise.

Torque setting for this is 44 NM

[thunderbolt]

I have started to pull the rear suspension apart.

I raised the bike with a bike lift under the sump. Two straps from the seat attachment points to the rafters to prevent it falling off the lift. And a couple of side ropes to secure it as well.

I have been disassembling the lower linkages after removing the fuel tank and loosening the top shock nut. See pictures below.







I have removed the lower main link plate that joins the engine plates to the swing arm plate, no probs.

But now I have hit a snag, I have removed the bolt which holds the rear plate to the swing arm and the other bolt to the main link has been removed as well and the only bolt now left in it is the one holding the bottom of the shock. But I cannot get the rear assembly to come away from the swing arm (see pics). Does the main spacer that fits through those bearings extend into the swing arm? Is there any other reason why this part will not come away from the swing arm?

Should I remove the rear wheel and the swing arm for inspection?

On a side note when I had the bike lifted up off the ground I was able to place a tire lever between the tire and the concrete floor and when levering up and down there was movement in two of the joints where the allan bolts go through. Mind you I had loosened all of the nuts at this stage, except the two that hold the two front plates to the engine crankcase.

Suggestions please?

[bazza696]

I know its a pain, but I take the swing arm off to check and replace any dead seals when checking the suspension linkages. Do you have the rear wheel removed?

For your reference when you put the Allen bolt back in the plate that fixes to the swing arm put some grease or copper-slip in the head as I had a problem removing mine because of corrosion as it is a tight fit, the same with the bolt through to t-bar rod.

[VTRDark]

I raised the bike with a bike lift under the sump. Two straps from the seat attachment points to the rafters to prevent it falling off the lift. And a couple of side ropes to secure it as well.

Are you onboard a ship with all them ropes.

I think your referring to one that goes through the base of the swingarm. I would remove the lower shock bolt which may give you a little more movement to either wiggle the bolt out or use a drift and hammer to knock it out. Bit there's a good chance it mat be seized in there in which case you need some heat. Blowtorch time me thinks!

I'm with Bazza on this one and would remove the complete swingarm. Plenty of access then... and easy to apply heat or give it a tw@ with a big hammer if needs be.

(:-})

[darkember]

I would still remove the last bolt from the base of the shock, it should then just drop away.