racetech gold valve install

[hymey]

Hey guys. I am fitting racetech gold valves on compression side of forks and new valve stack on rebound side. I have to drill a 1mm hole in the compression valve . Has anyone done this per racetech instructions? Any links? Also what is correct way to set up damper rod adjustment? The lock nut that locks against preload adjuster. There is nothing in manual regarding this adjustment just says not to touch it!

[VTRDark]

Shoot Roger at revolution racing an email or give a call as he's the best person to advise on this install. He's also a member of this fine forum and is always willing to help.

http://www.revolutionuk.co.uk/

(:-})

[hymey]

Thanks for reply. Ive heard a lot of good things about Roger. I ended up going with settings from terry at shock treatment. My compression valves already have a 1mm by pass for low speed compression dampening. I fitted the gold valves on comp side only. I used shim stack setup from terrys race vtr. I used 1.0 springs and cut 68mm spacers. I set them up so it has 8mm preload with adjusters wound out. Then I wound them in 5mm giving 13mm preload. I did not touch the needle. Was told I dont have too..the rebound shim stack bleeds off at low pressures. Once I fitted new shim stack on rebound it fixes the issues. Even tho low speed rebound is adjustable I left them wound out half turn only so low speed works much like the compression side equivalent to around a 1mm hole and works well. The low speed bypass gallery is actually quite large hence it responded with the needle near all the way in. However its the shim stack that makes all difference. I used 5w motorex oil 120mm air gap as advised by terry. I had to drop forks quite a bit. Was told not to focus on sag but more on preload to get front end diving how I like it then simply adjust fork tubes to get the bike tipping in how I like it. I had to drop them 3 mm further as the bike sits up much better with the right fork setup aswell as put a 4mm spacer in the rear shock. The shim stack he gave me along with right weight springs and oil height has transformed the bike . Braking is awesome. Feels plush initial stroke then progressively gets firmer with no harshness at all. No chance of bottoming out. I did do a few things like run a die nut over the threads on valves so I could accurately torque the nuts and I did a bit of measuring etc. Came out perfect in end am very rapped!

[tony.mon]

Hymey, is this on a standard right way up VTR front end?

[hymey]

Hymie, is this on a standard right way up VTR front end?

Yeah normal stock vtr . Terry from racetech has done a lot of vtr1000s firestorms. He loves them. Im in Australia. He is only 30 min drive from me. He just cable tied the shims in correct order to the compression gold valves. He said I didn't need gold valves in rebound side. He just made a shim stack for me cable tied them in correct order. What I did do and as most people know. I filed off the peened over threads till flush with the nuts. Then a ran a m6 x 1 die nut over the threads
As they are burred and u wont get accurate torque settings unless the nut spins free on the thread. That made things easier. I put loctite 243 on and centre popped the edge of threads to stop them coming loose. As far as oil goes he told me to have the correct amount of shims and 5 w oil is the go. It gives it a more plush initial stroke with only a 1mm by pass. And told me to use a 120mm air gap to start with and can decrease to 90. I just followed his instructions as I know there is a lot of emphasis on air gaps. It seams to be all in the valving. Im 6'3 and 100kg. He said .95 springs for touring. 1.0 for a more sports / race setup. So I went with that and set pressure relief higher in the valves. The rebound side has the tendency to bleed off to fast from low pressure relief in valve and a large bypass circuit. He basically doubled amount of shims in there and told me to run the needle in close as the bypass channel is that large it has tendencie to drop pressure out of there first before it builds up high enough to push the shims open. Made a lot of sense.

[NZSpokes]

Hymie, is this on a standard right way up VTR front end?

Yeah normal stock vtr . Terry from racetech has done a lot of vtr1000s firestorms. He loves them. Im in Australia. He is only 30 min drive from me. He just cable tied the shims in correct order to the compression gold valves. He said I didn't need gold valves in rebound side. He just made a shim stack for me cable tied them in correct order. What I did do and as most people know. I filed off the peened over threads till flush with the nuts. Then a ran a m6 x 1 die nut over the threads
As they are burred and u wont get accurate torque settings unless the nut spins free on the thread. That made things easier. I put loctite 243 on and centre popped the edge of threads to stop them coming loose. As far as oil goes he told me to have the correct amount of shims and 5 w oil is the go. It gives it a more plush initial stroke with only a 1mm by pass. And told me to use a 120mm air gap to start with and can decrease to 90. I just followed his instructions as I know there is a lot of emphasis on air gaps. It seams to be all in the valving. Im 6'3 and 100kg. He said .95 springs for touring. 1.0 for a more sports / race setup. So I went with that and set pressure relief higher in the valves. The rebound side has the tendency to bleed off to fast from low pressure relief in valve and a large bypass circuit. He basically doubled amount of shims in there and told me to run the needle in close as the bypass channel is that large it has tendencie to drop pressure out of there first before it builds up high enough to push the shims open. Made a lot of sense.

Did you have more detailed specs? Ive set up with a C34 stack on the comp but left the rebound alone. Where do you drill the 1mm hole?