CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod)

[fiero]

am sure many would have asked this, but again, after how many km's of total run can a CCT failure be expected ? or is it something which can happen anytime ?

[TravisZack]

Can go at any time. Best to get it done ASAP and be on the safe side.

[Virt]

am sure many would have asked this, but again, after how many km's of total run can a CCT failure be expected ? or is it something which can happen anytime ?

I think I read a story of the superhawk forum of someone having theirs go at 6000km. I'd get them done ASAP

[IanPowell]

Hi chaps, I'm also going to attempt the mod shortly. Maybe an dumb question but here goes! I'm thinking of getting a bike shop to switch out the ccts... Yes, I know, it's a wimps way out, but I couldn't live with myself if I screwed it up and knackered my bike... So a couple of hours labour for some piece of mind is worth it. Anyway, I sort of get the process of performing the stopper'ectomy on the ccts in the bike. They come out with a certain gap which you fill with the rod, easy... However, if I'm installing new ccts and need to do the op on these, how do I determine the gap size? As they've obviously never been near the bike... Do I have to install them, let them find their tension, lock them then pull them again before adding the rod? I'm confused or is there a way of filling the gap A with new ccts which have not been pulled from the bike?

My bikes done 26k, no idea whether the ccts have ever been changed (or failed ).. So want to give it the best chance of trouble free miles with a new set.

Any advice would be extremely appreciated!

Cheers all,
Ian

[VTRDark]

Do I have to install them, let them find their tension, lock them then pull them again before adding the rod?

Yes exactly. Reason being that every bike will require a slightly different length stopper because different engines are at a different stage of wear and tear ie stretched camchain. If your going to get a garage to do them I suggest you print off the instructions on here as many shops believe it, get it wrong with these bikes unless they have had previous experience with them.

(:-})

[sirch345]

Do I have to install them, let them find their tension, lock them then pull them again before adding the rod?

Yes exactly. Reason being that every bike will require a slightly different length stopper because different engines are at a different stage of wear and tear ie stretched camchain. If your going to get a garage to do them I suggest you print off the instructions on here as many shops believe it, get it wrong with these bikes unless they have had previous experience with them.

(:-})

Both of you spot on

Chris.

[IanPowell]

Hi all, just need a little 'basic' advice before deciding to start taking my bike apart to attempt the stopper mod. In the original post on the subject, instruction 2

(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.

Do I need to remove anything from the end of the cct before inserting the key? (Told you it was a basic question)

Thanks v much...

[AMCQ46]

There is an 8mm bolt on the end of the CCT, remove that

[IanPowell]

Great, thanks for that. I've made the key this morning, so ready to get going... Final question for now, I'm assuming the thin end of the tool is used for turning the worm, then inserting further (the 4.5mm bit) and turning (which direction and how much of a turn?) locks the worm in position? There's a post somewhere which advises to tape the key in place, but if 'locked' is this absolutely necessary?

Thanks again for the advice and valuable support!

[sirch345]

You turn the locking key clockwise as described in the instructions No.2 as below.

(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.


As for the tape, most definitely worth using, as it stops the key from jumping out when you're knocking out the roll pin to remove the plunger head. If you don't tape the key in place you will have to start all over again when it jumps out. Yes the thin end of the key turns the worm, once in the required position you push the key in that little bit further so that the key drops down into two of the slots in the back of the CCT.

Remember to follow the instructions at the beginning of this topic for setting the valve timing in the correct position before you remove either CCT's.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 92#p157492


Chris.

[IanPowell]

Great, thanks for that. I've made the key this morning, so ready to get going... Final question for now, I'm assuming the thin end of the tool is used for turning the worm, then inserting further (the 4.5mm bit) and turning (which direction and how much of a turn?) locks the worm in position? There's a post somewhere which advises to tape the key in place, but if 'locked' is this absolutely necessary?

Thanks again for the advice and valuable support!

[sirch345]

Ian,
I commend you for asking anything you're unsure about (always better to ask first), but without wishing to be rude, you really need to study the instructions more. You are asking question(s) I have already answered, which makes me worry you're not taking on everything enough to carry out this modification successfully.

Read the instructions in this link below again, if you have a printer print if off and take it to the bike before you start. I can not emphasise enough how important it is to set the valve timing up correctly before you remove either CCT.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 92#p157492

Chris.

[darkember]

Ian,
I commend you for asking anything you're unsure about (always better to ask first), but without wishing to be rude, you really need to study the instructions more. You are asking question(s) I have already answered, which makes me worry you're not taking on everything enough to carry out this modification successfully.

Read the instructions in this link below, if you have a printer print if off and take it to the bike before you start. I can not emphasise enough how important it is to set the valve timing up correctly before you remove either CCT.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 92#p157492

Chris.

I concur. Some of the really important things are to ensure you have the correct cylinder that you are working on at the correct TDC prior to undoing anything, then before you start learn to find the correct TDC for the 2nd cylinder. Things can go a little pear-shaped if you don't

[IanPowell]

Hi guys, thanks for the advice. I'm not one to rush into things without knowing exactly what im doing, hence the question. I have read the step by step guide a number of times but it does assume that you know what to do with the key in order to lock it, and sorry, but its not obvious to me from the guide (it simply says lock it off). I think it could help slightly less experienced members to be more explicit ( maybe producing a dummies guide to the stopper mod ). I absolutely understand the importance of the timing and I have no problem with that (the guide is very clear).. my question was not relating to that just the finer detail of the locking off the cct.

Again, thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how i get on.

[darkember]

Hi guys, thanks for the advice. I'm not one to rush into things without knowing exactly what im doing, hence the question. I have read the step by step guide a number of times but it does assume that you know what to do with the key in order to lock it, and sorry, but its not obvious to me from the guide (it simply says lock it off). I think it could help slightly less experienced members to be more explicit ( maybe producing a dummies guide to the stopper mod ). I absolutely understand the importance of the timing and I have no problem with that (the guide is very clear).. my question was not relating to that just the finer detail of the locking off the cct.

Again, thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how i get on.

Once at TDC just tie off the cam chain on the cylinder you are working on and you can safely remove the tensioner completely, it wont go anywhere