Chain Breaker - Riveter Tool

[thunderbolt]

Hi there,

Can I have opinions from those that have used or own a chain breaker/riveter tool as used when a chain replacement is being done.

I don't want to pay any more than I have to, but by the same token I don't want to buy a cheapie that breaks after a couple of uses.

Which are the best ones for the money? Thanks

Also while I am talking about chains, is it possible to rivet the new chain off the bike (on work bench, vice, etc) and then fit it after the riveting has been completed? If so how is it done?

Thanks in anticipation of the wisdom to be offered.

[sirch345]

Yes, the Firestorm is one of the bikes you can fit the main drive chain after it's been joined together, providing your bike doesn't have a brace welded to the swingarm. You'll need to remove the front sprocket cover complete with the clutch slave cylinder (remove the clutch lever before doing this. This stops the piston in the slave cylinder moving out). The chain guard will need removing, and the footrest hanger on the chain side will need the support arm bolt taking out, and the bolt supporting the exhaust link pipe. Slacken off the swingarm bolt/spindle then you can rotate the footrest hanger enough to fit the new chain. I cannot remember now, but you may also need to disconnect the gear change linkage. You will need to slacken off the rear wheel spindle so you can move the wheel forward to gain enough slack in the old chain for removal, and to adjust the tension on the new chain.

If your bike does have a braced swingarm, and you want to rivet the new chain on the bench, you will need to remove the swingarm and thread the new drive chain through the swingarm before riveting it together.

I think that's about it, if not I'm sure someone else will say,

Chris.

[thunderbolt]

Thanks Chris for the reply and the great information on replacing the rear chain in one piece.

I would still be interested in opinions from OP on which brand and model of chain breaker they use and any downfalls they came across.

[VTRDark]

I have not had very good experiences with the cheaper £30 chain breakers. Often the bits have bent/broken especially the pin for extracting links. I now rivet the pin while off the bike with chain resting on wood using a hammer and an appropriate bit that slots over the rivet and rolls the ends over when hit. Flat centre punch or drift will do the job. Off course this is easy with these bikes if no brace is attached to the swingarm.

One day I will splash out on a Whale
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Motorcycle-Pa ... chain+tool

Seen one being used in a garage and was most impressed.


(:-})

[Wicky]

Chain breaker

[AMCQ46]

Chain breaker

that's the one I use, then a hammer and punch to rivitt

[8541Hawk]

I use the RK chain tool and have had my current one for around 11-12 years with no issues.

[tony.mon]

If your bike does have a braced swingarm, and you want to rivet the new chain on the bench, you will need to remove the swingarm and thread the new drive chain through the swingarm before riveting it together.

I think that's about it, if not I'm sure someone else will say,

Chris.

If you have a brace, it can be done in situ, but you will need a helper to hold the chain and a large hammer behind it so that you can turn the rivets over.

[thunderbolt]

WOW, thanks guys for the contributions. I've always used the joining links with press-on plates and safety clip.

Will now attempt it the way you guys have advised.

[VTRDark]

I've always used the joining links with press-on plates and safety clip.

They are only good for IIRC up to 400cc engines. Mostly used on off road bikes! Rivet links are so much more stronger and needed with these bikes. Just make sure the rivet has rolled over properly and is held together securely. It's always a bit daunting doing your own for the first time.

(:-})

[thunderbolt]

I've always used the joining links with press-on plates and safety clip.

They are only good for IIRC up to 400cc engines. Mostly used on off road bikes! Rivet links are so much more stronger and needed with these bikes. Just make sure the rivet has rolled over properly and is held together securely. It's always a bit daunting doing your own for the first time.

(:-})

I'm not too worried about doing my own chain Carl. I'll have a go at anything. I split 4-cyl crankcases just to check play in the bottom end, etc. I have various size ball pein hammers and a selection of flat end punches to do the job with. Just thought if there was a tool that would do this job at a reasonable cost then I would buy one. It seems all the factory tools, be them from Honda, RK, DID, or where ever are VERY expensive -- usually $150+ with postage added on top of that.

I hadn't really thought about the fact that the old chain could be taken off (I usually use a small angle grinder for that) and the new chain fitted with the new joining link on the bench and then replaced on the bike. I was thinking along the lines of fitting the joining link with the chain in place.

Which type of joining link should I buy? There seems to be one with pins that are hollow on the ends for peining over. And there is another one I think called a soft pin master link.

I need to think outside the square more. That's where I am relying on you guys to keep me focused and thinking of new and better ways to do things.

[Wicky]

The hollow pins links are the easier to install



The solid link type are what you find on factory supplied endless chains and can be a bit more entertaining trying to fit if supplied individually for DIY.

If you get a special tool check in the description what type of link it works with. i.e "Will rivet hollow nose master links (will not rivet solid soft-nose pins)"

As mentioned in 2nd post by Sirch you can take of old chain without breaking it by removing the left footpeg hanger * whipping the old chain off. Link the new chain in comfort of your man shed and slip it back on - just make sure afterwards you torque the swingarm nut up back up to spec.

[sirch345]

You only thing you need to be aware of when riveting the chain is, you don't over do it so you end up with a tight link,

Chris.

[thunderbolt]

OK thanks Chris and Wicky, points noted.

Cheers

[spikenipple]

In my experience, the link plate that goes over the pins is always a stupidly tight fit, so have a couple of g-clamps and small sockets handy, and plenty of patience. If you have access to some vernier callipers, set the link width the same as the factory riveted links for the best results. Check both ends of the link so you know it's on square.

I made my own riveting/press tool so it's a real piece of piss
The easiest method of removing the old chain is to grind a link off.