I've thought about it bud but its seriously very hard stuff mate, plus id have to take the engine out, it took 4 hours just to remove the rear wheel spindle the other week i imagine the rest of the bike has never seen grease too so figure getting it out will be a wombles nightmareMiztaziggy wrote:Sebb why not drill a thin hole through the shaft at the end and stick a split pin through it?
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Welding Questions Help
Re: Welding Questions Help
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Re: Welding Questions Help
thinking on i wonder if there are any small bar end type bolts i could put inside it that expand when you tighten them? only problem is there is only about 30 - 35 mm of length it can fit down
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Re: Welding Questions Help
Any good engineering supplier will have the right quality drill bit
Worth a go before welding, methinks
Worth a go before welding, methinks
Re: Welding Questions Help
Flatline wrote:Any good engineering supplier will have the right quality drill bit
Worth a go before welding, methinks
DORMER Stainless Steel Jobber Drill was the bit i was using on it is that any good mate it seemed expensive so assumed they was good
Going to try a expanding dowel on it ill get my dad to get me one from Jergens via work
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Re: Welding Questions Help
If you weld the shaft it will make it soft, use a carbide drill if you need to drill it.
Re: Welding Questions Help
Its been welded before, you can see the spot welds that held a washer in place previous, its still very much hard as fcuk.adewhitmarsh wrote:If you weld the shaft it will make it soft, use a carbide drill if you need to drill it.
going to try a an expanding bolt like you would find in a bar end, ill either get one of jergens or see what Brabbin & Rudd can do for me in bolton
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Re: Welding Questions Help
The amount of heat transfer created by a couple of spot welds will be negligible and pretty matterless at the end of the shaft. BUT! If it were mine I would be trying to tap the centre and fix the sprocket much like the Storm!seb421 wrote:Its been welded before, you can see the spot welds that held a washer in place previous, its still very much hard as fcuk.adewhitmarsh wrote:If you weld the shaft it will make it soft, use a carbide drill if you need to drill it.
going to try a an expanding bolt like you would find in a bar end, ill either get one of jergens or see what Brabbin & Rudd can do for me in bolton
SH#T HAPPENS!!!!!!!!
Re: Welding Questions Help
Seb, what is the washer for? The std bike won't have one on (Well my 200 doesn't ), so not sure what it was on for or why you want to put one on again?
AMcQ
Re: Welding Questions Help
Rather than buying a full on welding kit, why not try one of those welding rod things that only require a blowtorch to use. The thing's benny recommended. Kev's tried them too I believe and was impressed. I can't remeber what they are called now.....duraweld or something
I shall seek eBay and post what I'm talking about
These things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220865171345? ... EBIDX%3AIT
They are for aluminium though so not sure that was a good idea after all.
(:-})
I shall seek eBay and post what I'm talking about
These things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220865171345? ... EBIDX%3AIT
They are for aluminium though so not sure that was a good idea after all.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Welding Questions Help
How about another option...
If you mounted a disc onto the inner face of the cover it would prevent the sprocket from moving out. Something like teflon or hard nylon would be hard-wearing enough, I would have thought, as it would be lubed with chain lube.
The shaft will have a seal on it as it goes through the crankcase, so watch out for excess heat while welding if you use that method. But don't just throw cold water on a hot weld, or it may simply crack, and you're back to square one.
If you mounted a disc onto the inner face of the cover it would prevent the sprocket from moving out. Something like teflon or hard nylon would be hard-wearing enough, I would have thought, as it would be lubed with chain lube.
The shaft will have a seal on it as it goes through the crankcase, so watch out for excess heat while welding if you use that method. But don't just throw cold water on a hot weld, or it may simply crack, and you're back to square one.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Welding Questions Help
how about getting hold of some c clips for practice and bending the tabs outwards slightly ,just enough to get some lacing wire in
wrap the two lugs together so as the clip cant spread apart when in position
this way no damage to the bike
wrap the two lugs together so as the clip cant spread apart when in position
this way no damage to the bike
told you not to but oh no you knew better
Re: Welding Questions Help
Its because the previous owner had used the bike with out putting the Circlip in place to hold the sprocket / stop it from moving left on the shaft, which in turn allowed the sprocket to run at the end of the shaft and ruined the lip and the recess where the circlip would have sat, if you put one in now it will ping off after 20 meters becuase there is wombles all left for it to purchase onAMCQ46 wrote:Seb, what is the washer for? The std bike won't have one on (Well my 200 doesn't ), so not sure what it was on for or why you want to put one on again?
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Re: Welding Questions Help
cybercarl wrote:Rather than buying a full on welding kit, why not try one of those welding rod things that only require a blowtorch to use. The thing's benny recommended. Kev's tried them too I believe and was impressed. I can't remeber what they are called now.....duraweld or something
I shall seek eBay and post what I'm talking about
These things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220865171345? ... EBIDX%3AIT
They are for aluminium though so not sure that was a good idea after all.
(:-})
yeah i remembered those but as said not much cop on steel
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Re: Welding Questions Help
tony.mon wrote:How about another option...
If you mounted a disc onto the inner face of the cover it would prevent the sprocket from moving out. Something like teflon or hard nylon would be hard-wearing enough, I would have thought, as it would be lubed with chain lube.
This idea i do like... on the sprocket cover that goes over the sprocket i could mount a piece of that polyurethane or some of hard ass type stuff to the inside of it, i could cut to shape drill it and tie it to the cover so it would press against the top and bottom half of the sprocket or just sit flush with the end of the shaft
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