quick copper grease question

[budd]

Just a quick question re copperslip/ anti-seize grease, I stripped the brakes on the RSV yesterday and while the front pads are brand new the rears were decidedly past their best so replacements are on the way (SBS Street excel £14.99 delivered from bikespeed UK who said Italian bike were expensive to run ), in the meantime I’m cleaning the calipers/retaining pins etc, while I was doing this I noticed a complete lack of any form of copper grease, the calipers and pads were effectively dry, so I’m wondering what peoples thoughts are when refitting the pads, continue to run them ’dry’ or apply copperslip to the backs/edges of the pads to prevent seizing and surface rust?

I think traditionally a small amount of copper grease was considered best practice when fitting brake pads, particularly on cars that said if used to excess it does more harm than good trapping dirt and brake dust, less is definitely more in this case.

It’s something I’ve never really thought about before as I’ve always tended to use copper grease when reassembling brakes, but now I’m questioning what the benefits actually are on the performance motorcycle that is only used as a toy and therefore not subjected to harsh winter weather or even rain if I can avoid it.

[Wicky]

On pins, bolts etc yes, light smear on back but not side of pads - wouldn't want it getting anywhere near the pad surface.

SBS Street excel £14.99 delivered from bikespeed UK

Pad material a bit thin (only 4mm) and soft (hence why so cheap) - so will wear a bit quicker than normal so keep an eye on the wear.

[lloydie]

On pins pins, bolts etc yes, light smear on back but not side of pads - wouldn't want it getting anywhere near the pad surface.

+1 but not copper grease tho had to be copperslip , one is a grease and the other looks like a pricstick (paste)

[budd]

On pins pins, bolts etc yes, light smear on back but not side of pads - wouldn't want it getting anywhere near the pad surface.

+1 but not copper grease tho had to be copperslip , one is a grease and the other looks like a pricstick (paste)

Copperslip is the generic name for greases containing copper, ( it’s actually derived from or a misspelled version of Copaslip which is the brand name of a grease produced by US company Molyslip ltd) I don’t think in practise there will be any difference in performance from one copper grease to another, I’ve got several tins in the garage Comma ‘copper ease’, Rocol anti seize compound etc and they are all pretty much the same thing.

[budd]

Pad material a bit thin (only 4mm) and soft (hence why so cheap) - so will wear a bit quicker than normal so keep an eye on the wear.

I had these on the Storm and they were fine, your right they are a little thin, IIRC the overall pad thickness (inc backing plate) is under 8mm (7.8mm) but considering the role of the rear brake this shouldn't be an issue and they will be removed and inspected regularly.

[popkat]

I use worth spray on copper grease, it goes on nice and thin so no need to over do it, not cheap though about £20 a can but lasts well.

How have the rear pads worn out on an rsv, the rear brakes don't work

[budd]

I use worth spray on copper grease, it goes on nice and thin so no need to over do it, not cheap though about £20 a can but lasts well.

How have the rear pads worn out on an rsv, the rear brakes don't work

'tis true the rear brakes on the RSV have a bad rep, although mine seems fine .
Aprilia have used top spec goldline Brembo gear which is great but then negated this quality kit because the location of the various components is so poor, the MC is mounted on the underside of the engine quite near the exhaust so is subjected to engine / exhaust heat plus engine vibration which some think may cause captivation in the fluid and therefore a spongy peddle, then there’s the rear caliper which is mounted so the bleed nipple faces down which makes bleeding the system with the caliper in place tricky at best. I’ve bled it through with Motul RBF 600 fluid, the only way to bleed it is with the rear caliper removed from it mount and turned over so the nipple is facing up, then you need to chock the pistons and bleed normally but it’s a proper pain, anyway I’m pretty sure the system is bled properly now but whether I’ll experience problems caused by how the MC is mounted only time will tell, the solution to this is to mount the MC in the traditional position but to do this rearsets and new MC are required.

[popkat]

When I had my RSV I fitted rearsets that relocated the master cylinder to a conventional position and the rear brake worked perfectly, I used the original master cylinder, can't see why you'd need to change it as it's the same as many others and when moved sits in the right position, Aprilia performance do some good rearset at a good price I believe, they also give a much better foot position so worth having.

[Ckennedy]

I have not long purchased said rear sets for the converted mille. Good quality, around 270quid for them. come in silver or black. Not had chance to test them yet though

[budd]

When I had my RSV I fitted rearsets that relocated the master cylinder to a conventional position and the rear brake worked perfectly, I used the original master cylinder, can't see why you'd need to change it as it's the same as many others and when moved sits in the right position, Aprilia performance do some good rearset at a good price I believe, they also give a much better foot position so worth having.

I must admit I haven't given the MC more than a cursory glance I just assumed because of its location under the engine it wouldn’t lend itself well to relocation, so it’s nice to know it can be retained and used with rearsets if necessary, although at the moment is seems fine.

[budd]

I have not long purchased said rear sets for the converted mille. Good quality, around 270quid for them. come in silver or black. Not had chance to test them yet though

I agree they do look nice and given the quality £270 is not unreasonable, but it's still nearly £300, so if I can get away with what I've got then I think I will, the money can be much better spend on some summer tyres

[popkat]

I had to get a new rear brake hose, you need to work out the extra length and banjo angle with a dry fit, unless the aprilia performance ones come with a new hose.

I looped my brake hose around the front of the swingarm, if you know what it looks like it makes sense.

[budd]

I had to get a new rear brake hose, you need to work out the extra length and banjo angle with a dry fit, unless the aprilia performance ones come with a new hose.

I looped my brake hose around the front of the swingarm, if you know what it looks like it makes sense.

yeah I know what you mean, the OE pipe runs along the underside of the swingarm and then straight under the engine to the MC, it would make sense to run it up round the front of the swingarm to the repositioned MC..