Rectifier wiring help for mosfet

[dudehog]

Hi, all. My rectumfrier gave up today and I've been advised to get a mosfet one.
I've had a look on here and seen the ones available.
What is the best one to get and can someone reply with a link on how to fit it please
Ta, muchly

[Wicky]

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ty#p351482

[dudehog]

Nice one. guess I just look for an 03 r1 recto on ebay?

[dudehog]

one question: the green and red wires, I can see where they go. but the yellow wires. It's a bit hard to tell. Does it matter what order they go in? Or do they come out of the original plug and go in the new one the same way? I.e:


old: new:

(top) 1 1
(middle) 2 2
(bottom) 3 3

or a different order?

[MacV2]

one question: the green and red wires, I can see where they go. but the yellow wires. It's a bit hard to tell. Does it matter what order they go in? Or do they come out of the original plug and go in the new one the same way? I.e:


old: new:

(top) 1 1
(middle) 2 2
(bottom) 3 3

or a different order?

Yellow put in the same way but its not that important.

Although how do you know which is top ? Left to right maybe...?

[firestorm_al]

The yellow wires can go in any order.

If you need connectors for your unit then I recommend this place - https://kojaycat.co.uk/

Al.

[darkember]

one question: the green and red wires, I can see where they go. but the yellow wires. It's a bit hard to tell. Does it matter what order they go in? Or do they come out of the original plug and go in the new one the same way? I.e:


old: new:

(top) 1 1
(middle) 2 2
(bottom) 3 3

or a different order?

Yellow put in the same way but its not that important.

Although how do you know which is top ? Left to right maybe...?

I read somewhere that is does not matter which way the yellow wire are connected as long as they are in the same plug.

[MacV2]

On the standard plug layout, the 3 yellow wires are at the top with the other two below.

On a Mosfet there are two plugs, one has three connectors the other has two... 3 yellows go on the three connector grey plug the red & green go to the black plug. I wired mine in to match the left/right red/green wires as on the old one.

[dudehog]

ok, to check the reg was faulty I took it off and put back the original. It started off at 15v then over 2 minutes or so went up to and past 16.5v
Is there a fuse to check?
I had also a new spare I had. Put that on and it started off at 14.5 v then that also crept up to nearly 17v
Any ideas?
It had anew battery just after xmas with a higher cranking ampage. would this draw to much current and knacker the reg?

[sirch345]

ok, to check the reg was faulty I took it off and put back the original. It started off at 15v then over 2 minutes or so went up to and past 16.5v
Is there a fuse to check?
I had also a new spare I had. Put that on and it started off at 14.5 v then that also crept up to nearly 17v
Any ideas?
It had anew battery just after xmas with a higher cranking ampage. would this draw to much current and knacker the reg?

The bigger amp hour battery shouldn't make any difference to the charging rate, although if your rectifier failed the battery may be damaged. I would be inclined to check your multi-meter on another vehicle first, just to make sure the readings from it are correct.

Chris.

[dudehog]

I did see a post from another thread (after much searching) about if the rect fails and boils the battery and you replace the rect, it can still fail as the battery is trying to charge more than it should.
I'll check out the reading with my mates multi meter too. On the safe side 'll get another battery too. Probably a yuasa

[kev64]

You don't really want to be charging much more than 15v, my smooth rectifier was charging the battery, like yours @ nearly 16v
Fitted my mosfet reg, and was charging @ around 14.5v, after riding now for a few weeks and the new battery is in a healthy state,
my reg is charging about 14.1v, starter wizzes over lovely !!

[dudehog]

So in your opinion would you replace the battery or keep it as it is. Or for the sake of £35 buy another and have a safe charging set up?

[VTRDark]

You have a live and earth and the the three Yellows from the stator windings. It don't matter which order the yellows go in.

As for the battery if you feel more comfortable changing it for the sake of £35 then change it. A new battery is not a bad thing. Otherwise do thorough checks to make sure the charging system is working as it should be.

(:-})

[firestorm_al]

ok, to check the reg was faulty I took it off and put back the original. It started off at 15v then over 2 minutes or so went up to and past 16.5v
Is there a fuse to check?
I had also a new spare I had. Put that on and it started off at 14.5 v then that also crept up to nearly 17v
Any ideas?
It had anew battery just after xmas with a higher cranking ampage. would this draw to much current and knacker the reg?

If the charge voltage goes over 15v then you will start to cook your battery. Sounds like the voltage regulator section is knackered on both the units you have. If you replace the battery before replacing the faulty units you will just end up cooking your new battery. Regardless of the revs the output voltage on the RR should not really excede 15v (the units can be a pain in the butt as the early faults on regulator side can sometimes be interittant and only show up when the unit heats up - this is sometimes be highlighted be headlight or tail light bulbs needing replaced frequently).

When you do replace the RR unit and you are getting the correct voltage then if everynow and then your battery seems to loose it's charge for no reason then the battery will need replaced. Before you do, just double check that the output voltage from the RR is still holding steady and not rising above 15v.

Depending on the failure mode of the RR unit it can dissapate excess power through the stator coils and burn them out. That's what hoppened to me on my Triumph TT600 but I've never had it on any of the pther bikes I've had electrical problems with. The easiest way to do a quick check on the coils is to test the resistance of all the yellow wires to ground (open circuit) and all combinations of yellow wire to yellow wire (low resistance and the values should all be approx. the same as each other).

Al.