New in New Zealand

fabiostar · Post by **fabiostar** » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:37 pm

welcome along good sir. enjoy the forum

ATM · Post by **ATM** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 9:58 pm

Hi Terry, welcome to the forum. Don't forget to check out the rear suspension linkage as the bearing bushes can get tight if not maintained.

Cheers, Al

Cadbury64 · Post by **Cadbury64** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:42 am

Thanks Al
I'm working my way over the bike trying to undo years of neglect and corrosion. This week I've stripped and cleaned the brakes and rebuilt the forks after a repaint. Also repainted the mirror stems, top clamp and bars. Check out the mayonnaise that lived inside the forks! Ewwww!

Just spent 30 minutes wrestling the £#%^ fairing back on. Got there in the end but it seems awfully tight around the nose. Any tips?

Had to get adult assistance from my friendly bike shop to separate the fork seals due to nasty dust seals that had broken down and allowed water past.

Found the tstat is stuck and the fan blade is not spinning so will come back to those. Considered checking the back valves but was unable to free the alt cap; more adult assistance needed ie man with rattle gun I think.

Next up will be a thorough clean of the chain area with some new Cush drives on order.

And all this mostly one-handed due to carpal tunnel surgery!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post by **sirch345** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:54 am

What you've done so far is looking great

Re-fitting the fairing is more about the knack than anything, which you will pick up after you've had the thing off and on a few times. The alternator centre cap is known to cause problems as it's soft material, you'll probably end up needing a new one.

You should start a new thread in "Pimp My Ride"

Chris.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:22 am

Cadbury64 wrote:.... Considered checking the back valves but was unable to free the alt cap; more adult assistance needed ie man with rattle gun I think. ...

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ch#p321389

And like Sirch said get a new cap before you start hacking the old un out

agentpineapple · Post by **agentpineapple** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:01 pm

looking good buddy, it's lots of work, but you will connect with the bike as you go, in the end you'll find it's a bike you'll never want to sell...

Cadbury64 · Post by **Cadbury64** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:45 pm

The latest issue is s fuel leak while parked. I have had the tank off, and even with the manual tap off there was a bit of leakage. Now it's refitted and fuel has been coming out from the v of the engine and dripping to the floor, not very quickly but enough to stink out the garage. I've turned the fuel tap off again and it seems to have stopped. If anyone else has experienced and fixed this I'm all ears. I'm thinking something in the vacuum petcock?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

agentpineapple · Post by **agentpineapple** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:12 pm

you might need a petcock rebuild kit, although I've not heard of one leaking at standstill, I hope it's an easy fix mate.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:37 am

From the V

are you sure you haven't got a leaky carb float bowl. The petcock tap is only there in case of a petcock or diaphragm failure. You should be able to remove the fuel hoses and have no leaks with the tap in the On position.

(:-})

Cadbury64 · Post by **Cadbury64** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 3:55 am

cybercarl wrote:From the V are you sure you haven't got a leaky carb float bowl. The petcock tap is only there in case of a petcock or diaphragm failure. You should be able to remove the fuel hoses and have no leaks with the tap in the On position.

(:-})

Thanks Carl, I think I have both a leaking petcock and a float valve. I'll do some diagnostics tonight but am leaning towards needing a diaphragm kit, then if need be I'll get into the carb bowls and check for some crud in the float valve.

Cadbury64 · Post by **Cadbury64** » Fri Apr 03, 2015 5:37 am

Pulled the vacuum petcock today. Both diaphragms were in good nick, and I think I had a bit of crud stuck in the manual tap that was stopping that sealing fully when "off".

Interestingly I found the vacuum valve would stay stuck open when the line was vented, and this was allowing fuel to overflow the carb bowl. There's a tiny one-way valve at the vacuum port that should allow slow back flow so the valve stays open for a bit then closes, and I think the back flow orifice must have got plugged. I had a prod around inside the vac valve body where the one way valve connects and must have freed this up because it works well now.

While the tank was off I checked the rear valves and they're at 5 and 11 thou respectively which is a touch tight. When the manual CCTs arrive I'll do some reshimming at the same time.

What do you think of "Honda Corner"?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

countrymick · Post by **countrymick** » Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:32 am

looking good

VTR1000.ORG