lloydie wrote:They might just need bedding in .
Also might be worth loosening the left bottom fork pinch bolts on the spindle and giving it a few good bounces ,the check again after you've done them back up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had a look at them yesterday. I tried resetting the left forkleg, but it didn't move, so made no difference, but worth a try I agree. I then removed the left caliper and pushed the bike along, I could still detect binding from the right side caliper/disc, like I said it's not a lot. I refitted the left caliper, pumped the pads out then removed the righthand side caliper, I could also detect the brake binding on the leftside. I also checked to see if any of the pistons seemed to be sticking, none of them did, I could see all pistons retracting when releasing the lever.
popkat wrote:Make sure pistons are out evenly on each side, clean up discs with some wet and dry or emery paper, rotate bobbins whilst spraying brake cleaner. put your new pads in and see what it's like then. if still slightly binding give a few miles and check again see if it's free'd up at all. Oh and definitely worth giving them another bleed, if you tie the lever up over night (about half way in, don't force it right back) then bleed off in the morning any extra air will come out.
What seals did you use ?, cheap ones aren't good, I use powerhouse for my seal kits or original items
The pistons do seem to be out even on each side. The disc's have been cleaned up not that long ago and the bobbins were done then too, so I don't think it's that, although a good idea if I hadn't done them recently. Plus like I said, they were not binding before I serviced the calipers. I'll give the bleeding another go. I didn't replace the seals, as the old ones seemed to be good, and they were working fine before I stripped the calipers for servicing. Cheers for the info on the seal kits.
Seeing as the MOT tester, Lloydie and you have suggested they my just need some miles put on them, I think I will try that (if the bleeding doesn't fix it), providing the disc's are not getting hot of course.
MacV2 wrote:sirch345 wrote:
MacV2 wrote:Apparently the larger of the two seals have a lip on them so go in a certain way up.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
Oooooooh that's news to me Mac about the seals having to go in a certain way on the
larger pistons. I think I better have a look at my Honda Workshop manual.
I don't think it's enough for a seal to have twisted, plus I would have thought it would be leaking brake fluid if that had happened.
Chris.
No not just the large pistons...each piston has two seals the larger of the two on each piston...as I said apparently...
My mistake Mac, I read that wrong, so it's the main seals on all pistons that you're referring too, not the dust seals which are thinner.
I have had a looking in the Honda Workshop manual and the Haynes just out of interest, but I can't see anything about the seals having to go in a certain way,
can anyone else confirm this?
Thanks to all for your help and advice,
Chris.