VTR Down Under

[Salty Dog]

Good Work Twitchy
You are really getting in to the new bike.
I was the same when i got my '04 model.

Although i didn't strip mine down like you have
As others have said, looks like the previous owner wasn't a vert mechanical fella, or knew much about looking after things.
And considering, its only travelled so little k's in 2 years.

I'd be checking the Battery (and buying yourself a tender)
Replacing all fluids, engine oil, brake, clutch, radiator, the lot.
Check the Clutch Slave for leaks and gunk build up
Check the Bottom Swing Arm Linkage Bearing
Look in the Carbs to see if the Restrictors have been removed (images on this site http://www.billzilla.org/mybike.html )
Checking and Setting up the suspension from the previous owner (mine came so bad, i have no idea how anyone rode it)
Check if you have a rear shock shim fitted
Take off the right hand side Can and have a look into the header Y peace ;)
Buy her some some new tyres
And just go riding

[Twitchy]

Hey Salty Dog, yeah I reckon I got a good buy, just needs to be brought up to scratch mechanically.

I'd be checking the Battery (and buying yourself a tender). Already done - battery good.
Replacing all fluids, engine oil, brake, clutch, radiator, the lot. Brake & clutch done, oil & filter next
Check the Clutch Slave for leaks and gunk build up. Stripped when cleaning out gel gunk
Check the Bottom Swing Arm Linkage Bearing. Mmmm, need to follow up on this.
Look in the Carbs to see if the Restrictors have been removed (images on this site http://www.billzilla.org/mybike.html ). No restrictors
Checking and Setting up the suspension from the previous owner (mine came so bad, i have no idea how anyone rode it). Got a mate who can help check sag settings.
Check if you have a rear shock shim fitted. Need to have a good look around there.
Take off the right hand side Can and have a look into the header Y peace ;). What am I looking for?
Buy her some some new tyres. Tyres are still ok, probably another couple of thousand kms left. Not sure what to get next though (Michelin Pilot Power 3 on the shortlist)
And just go riding Yes, I am getting a bit impatient, but still got 3 months till test!

Basically using this time to go through and check everything.

Oh, and received my Krieger MCCTs yesterday, but want to get the carbs finished first. One thing at a time prevents fading memory of what has and hasn't been done!!

[Salty Dog]

Rear Shock Shim is a very easy thing to find, just look under where your tank pivots, where the top of the shock bolts to the frame.
There may or may not be a 3-6mm alloy shim slipped in between the 2.
If you don't have one, its all ok... Its a Mod a lot of people do to speed up the steering allow the bike to rail better mid corner.

It does come with 2 downsides, it will make you bike lay over further while on the side stand.
It will bring the rear suspension linkage even closer to the exhaust.
But, many people find the positives out weigh the negatives.


As for the Right hand side can and Y-piece it bolts too.
Remove muffler, and look into the header pipe, it will be 30% closed over by the pipe that sticks in.
Some people get a holesaw and cut it out so its full diameter, finish off with die grinder.

This balances both pipes, especially when you warm the bike up.
It also lets the bike rev a lot free-er.
There is a small loss of bottom end.
Plenty of threads on here about it.

[Twitchy]

Well a small update. Krieger manual ccts installed and engine still turns over by hand. PAIR removal done, I just made up my own block off plates, and will cap off the airbox when I reinstall it. Carbs are reassembled, just waiting on delivery of new float bowl gaskets and the brass Polaris choke fittings to replace one I cracked on removal. Hopefully that stuff gets here before next weekend so I can get this show on the road!

Will keep you posted.

[Twitchy]

Another update after waiting too long for trans continental shipping! While having valve covers off for mccts, checked valve clearances.
Front left intake 0.18mm
Front right intake 0.16mm
Front Left exhaust 0.31mm
Front right exhaust 0.31mm

Rear left intake 0.19mm
Rear right intake 0.18mm
Rear left exhaust 0.32mm
Rear right exhaust 0.33mm

The rear left intake probably the only concern, but figured it will be ok for another few thousand.

So now have put new valve cover gaskets in, sealed up the carb boots with duct tape, and blocked off the coolant lines, and taken it outside for a careful degrease and rinse to get the road grime and crap off. Looks a whole lot better now! I am still waiting on the thumb screws to arrive, and the vacuum fittings from Morgan carbtune which are at least another week away. I have also machined up the Polaris atv brass fittings, which did not work as expected. The spring must be only a tiny bit larger than the hole in the brass fitting, as when under tension, managed to work its way through the hole, defeating the purpose of having the fitting there. After checking both fittings, and the dimensions for machining to suit the VTR application, figured I needed a washer inside the brass fitting to reduce the hole size and prevent the spring from getting through. I didn't have washers small enough, so I ended up using 2 small nuts, 1 for each fitting. The nuts measured at 7mm across the points of the hex, and approx 3mm thick. I drilled the thread out to 3.5mm to clear the lead ball on the end of the choke cable. The nuts fit perfectly, and the only difference is the slightly increased tension when pulling the choke on. A small adjustment on the choke cable friction nut has overcome any issue.

So while waiting for UK mail, I think I will proceed with refitting carbs, filling cooling system with distilled water and running to operating temp, and then dumping water and repeating, to flush out the glycol coolant that was in there. A number of people locally have recommended Redline Water Wetter as the agent to use in our climate. And also glycol is not permitted at track days, whereas Water Wetter is permitted. Then I will remove the carbs, fit the thumb screws and remote balancing setup, and all will hopefully be well.

[Twitchy]

Now I have a couple of questions for the more educated/experienced VTR enthusiast.

1. I cannot seem to find a colour label on my bike around the tail frame anywhere. But my bike is red, so can I assume it is indeed R-157 Italian Red?

2. Jetting. I realise this is bit more complicated than a simple answer, but... as stated earlier, I have 45 slow and 180 main jets front & rear, K&N filter and Jardine cans. Through some extensive reading, the rear cylinder usually has a larger main jet than the front cylinder. Somewhere I found (superhawk forum I think) an article on standard jets with 48 pilots and standard mains, and tweaking via the pilot screws. Can I just pop in a 178 into the front, or 182 into the rear to help this situation? The front spark plug is a nice very dark grey ( almost black), and the rear spark plug has a very light grey (almost white) tip - NGK Iridium plugs just been replaced with newer of the same. The white tip tells me the rear is running a bit hot. Feedback on this appreciated.

[NZSpokes]

Looks like you have a jet kit in there already, my guess is its Dyno jet. If it runs well leave it alone....

[gl_s_r]

I have also machined up the Polaris atv brass fittings, which did not work as expected. The spring must be only a tiny bit larger than the hole in the brass fitting, as when under tension, managed to work its way through the hole, defeating the purpose of having the fitting there. After checking both fittings, and the dimensions for machining to suit the VTR application, figured I needed a washer inside the brass fitting to reduce the hole size and prevent the spring from getting through. I didn't have washers small enough, so I ended up using 2 small nuts, 1 for each fitting. The nuts measured at 7mm across the points of the hex, and approx 3mm thick. I drilled the thread out to 3.5mm to clear the lead ball on the end of the choke cable. The nuts fit perfectly, and the only difference is the slightly increased tension when pulling the choke on. A small adjustment on the choke cable friction nut has overcome any issue.

If it helps for next time : http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... hoke+brass

[VTRDark]

Good work Twitchy you are getting loads done.

1. I cannot seem to find a colour label on my bike around the tail frame anywhere. But my bike is red, so can I assume it is indeed R-157 Italian Red?

The label should be on the rear left of the subframe behind the side of the tail fairing. Here is some links that may help.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... aint+codes

http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colour ... delid=2055

2. Jetting. I realise this is bit more complicated than a simple answer, but... as stated earlier, I have 45 slow and 180 main jets front & rear, K&N filter and Jardine cans. Through some extensive reading, the rear cylinder usually has a larger main jet than the front cylinder. Somewhere I found (superhawk forum I think) an article on standard jets with 48 pilots and standard mains, and tweaking via the pilot screws. Can I just pop in a 178 into the front, or 182 into the rear to help this situation? The front spark plug is a nice very dark grey ( almost black), and the rear spark plug has a very light grey (almost white) tip - NGK Iridium plugs just been replaced with newer of the same. The white tip tells me the rear is running a bit hot. Feedback on this appreciated.

Dynojet don't make a 178 main jet so you would then be mixing up Dynojet and Keihin (standard) parts. Do be aware that Dynojet and Keihin are not the same design and do not use the same measurement scale. Best to leave things as is if all is working and keep things consistent otherwise you may run into more tuning difficulties. Either stick with Dynojet or Keihin. But on the other hand if you feel like playing then go for it. Some have had good results with pick and mix so to speak. FYI that's a mixed bag of sweets. Sorry just thought after typing that you wont know what the hell I am on about as it's UK sweet shop thing. What I mean is generally it's best not to mix jet kits but there is no reason why one can't experiment and find something that works. There's no hard and fast rules as such. Bloody hell I'm talking in riddles here. I'm tired........ got to pull myself away from this screen now.

In case you have not see this thread
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238580

Rear Shock Shim is a very easy thing to find, just look under where your tank pivots, where the top of the shock bolts to the frame.
There may or may not be a 3-6mm alloy shim slipped in between the 2.
If you don't have one, its all ok... Its a Mod a lot of people do to speed up the steering allow the bike to rail better mid corner.

Just to clarify it's usually called a shock spacer rather than a shim. Shim could be confused with the actual shims that are part of the internals of a shock unit. Shock spacer would be the better search term for more info on here.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26883

(:-})

[Twitchy]

If it helps for next time : http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... hoke+brass

With regard to the brass fitting, I followed the schematic to within 0.1mm of dimensions shown (lathe at work is no spring chicken!). When reassembling the choke fitting to the cable the first time, I installed the needle end over the lead ball, and released the spring. The spring had already worked its way through the brass fitting purely with enough tension on it to get the needle end/spring retainer thingo reassembled. I disassembled the needle end/retainer, removed the brass fitting, removed the spring, and manged to get the spring through the brass fitting without much effort. I reassembled the choke fittings, and squeezed up the spring to get the needle/retainer back on, and the spring worked its way through again. Thats when I went to a backup plan. The reason for putting a spacer on there was if the spring can work its way through by reassembly, then it would probably happen in normal choke operation, and require surgery to then install a spacer to stop the problem. Better to do it now when its easy.
(20 year trade qualified Mechanical Fitter and personal vehicle engine rebuilds over the years, so not exactly a rookie!)

The label should be on the rear left of the subframe behind the side of the tail fairing. Here is some links that may help.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... aint+codes

http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colour ... delid=2055

No label hence my question. However investigating your links, Australia never had a red VTR in 2005 or 2006.....

With regard to the jetting, as stated the rear spark plug is light grey/white, and the front plug is dark grey/almost black. I am of the opinion that this means the rear cylinder is running a bit hot. Am I correct? This is the reason for my question about jetting. Summers in Perth regularly hit 40 degrees, and I am looking at ways to reduce the effect on the bike (also considering the possibility of larger oil cooler).

Thanks.

[VTRDark]

With regard to the jetting, as stated the rear spark plug is light grey/white, and the front plug is dark grey/almost black. I am of the opinion that this means the rear cylinder is running a bit hot. Am I correct?

It's a bit difficult to diagnose without seeing as grey/black covers quite a lot. Is it sooty Black or oily/wet Black for example.

This may be of help to you:
http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/s ... aqread.asp

Do be aware though that reading plugs is not as accurate as it used to be in the old days before the likes of Iridium plugs. Also for an accurate reading you have to do a plug chop. Basically with the bike brought up to running temp take the bike for a ride and up to speed, revs and throttle position, for the carb circuit your working on/checking. Dip the clutch, switch off engine and coast to a stop. Then remove the plugs.

(:-})

[Twitchy]

So yesterday I finally got to give it a kick in the guts! Just running distilled water to help flush out the glycol in the cooling system. Fuel screws set at 2 and 1/8th on the front and 2 1/2 turns on the rear as it was on disassembly.

Obvious average operation due to getting fuel through initially, but sat on the choke quite nicely, then idled well without the choke. The only issue I have is a miss at about every 3-4 seconds at 3000rpm. Took ages to get to 101 degrees for the fan to kick in. Wondering if I should get a switch that operates a bit earlier. Otherwise all seems to be well.

Now waiting for carbtune vac take offs to arrive then carbs off, those on and thumb screws and we should be well on the way to going for a ride!

The big question - sync carbs first, or get the fuel screws set up first?

[Twitchy]

Ok, so I wrote that last post while at the park with the kids.

Got home and thought I would see how it started. Initially started fine with choke about 1/2" out. As temp increased, pushed choke back in a bit at a time. Idled a bit rough at 1000 - 1100rpm, then died. Took a few goes to get it going again, and again with the choke in, died. This is the reason I pulled the carbs off originally - would not run with choke in. But having cleaned everything very well am tentatively ruling that out.

Can I assume it is to do with either badly synced carbs or dodgy fuel screw setting (please please??!!)

Thanks for advice (having now typed that I shall go and read the carb tuning thread!).

[Wicky]

Try adjusting idle speed up to 1,200. Presumably getting a little chillier down under.

Edit: warmer than where I am! http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2063523

Make sure everything else is serviced air filter, plugs etc. and that your refurbished choke cables are working correctly.

[popkat]

Set idle to 1200-1300 rpm, the stumble at 3k is carb fart, carb balance will help this, also you could try setting TPS, should read about 800ohms but you can pull it down closer to 500. not sure how much difference it makes but you might feel better doing it
Check your chokes are not being held out by the rubber boot not seating properly, it's easily done and will hold the choke slightly on, what if you broken choke fitting wasn't you and was already done, that would account for your slightly darker front plug. whip the carbs off again and give them a blow through, you may have a bit of crap in there causing slight flooding the carbs causing your latest idle stall, while you've got them off set pilot screws to 2 turns out.... See how it runs after all that.