Pro Bolt Shiny bit

[chric]

Pro Bolt Shiny bit they hard to fit what every ones just orderd for front wheel

[Wicky]

As long as you've got the special tool it should fit.

[lloydie]

He is a special tool ! So should be fine

[chric]

got a halfords pro set so a proper pro aswell now

[MacV2]

Really hard to do Chric...Undo old one, turn to the left...fit new one, turn to the right...Torque to correct setting.


Awaits reply saying...''but I don't have a Torque wrench..''

To which I will reply...Well your not the Pro you claim to be then are you...

[lloydie]

Ian will have one init chric

[TheGingerBeardMan]

You could take my talk wench if you like. Please. Someone take her.......

My ears. They bleed.

[chric]

no torque wrench no
what does it need to go one one nm wise

[MacV2]

no torque wrench no
what does it need to go one one nm wise

59 Nm (6.0 kgf.m, 43Ibf·ft)

As per Honda workshop manual.

[TheGingerBeardMan]

I say knickers to the Honda manual for this particular bolt. Yeah, to contradict Mac, you could say "I'm going against the Grain!"

I mean, after you tighten the axle nut by feel, and then tighten up the 2 fork bolts at the bottom, it ain't going anywhere!

I never use a torque wrench on 99.99% of things. Dangerous tools they are. Fine when the vehicle and engine is split new. But a few years on, with heat damage and stress to bolts, means they can be a bit "dodgy" when tightened up to the Manufacturers torque specs. If it's a life or death bolt that needs torqued, and I don't trust the original, I'll buy a new one, and torque that up to original recommendations. Or, if I'm tightening a cylinder head (which needs to be squished for a good seal, then I'll borrow me torque wrench for that. But, mainly, I refuse to have a torque wrench in my tool box now.

Professional bike racer mechanics use them, as do top-spec mechanics working on mega buck road vehicles. Also, if doing wheel nuts on a wagon, you have to torque em.

But for us road riders, with the same tiny bolts day in, day out, getting battered by heat, vibration and the elements, there is a good chance of internal corrosion (inside the old bolt), and a weakened shaft (steady on now Lloyd!). It's not uncommon for "the average man" to use a torque wrench on an original bolt, and it twists or sheers the head clean off, with the swearing and the exclamation "but I tightened it according to the manual"!

If you really feel the need to use one (and ok, this will be a nice new shiny bolt), back the wrench off a few NMs. But, best of all, is to learn to "feel" the bolts when tightening with a socket. After a while, you can hear a tiny "ping" or "click" from the bolt, and that's it telling you it's reached the point. Sometimes, you can feel the "bounce" on a bolt when tightening (or a bit of spring back). Again, that's the time to not tighten any further. If ya do, then you'll sheer the bolt.

In reality, the only chance the axle nut has in coming off, is if some bugger spots it and wants it, who just happens to be carrying his own spanner.

[bigtwinthing]

I say knickers to the Honda manual for this particular bolt. Yeah, to contradict Mac, you could say "I'm going against the Grain!"

I mean, after you tighten the axle nut by feel, and then tighten up the 2 fork bolts at the bottom, it ain't going anywhere!

I never use a torque wrench on 99.99% of things. Dangerous tools they are. Fine when the vehicle and engine is split new. But a few years on, with heat damage and stress to bolts, means they can be a bit "dodgy" when tightened up to the Manufacturers torque specs. If it's a life or death bolt that needs torqued, and I don't trust the original, I'll buy a new one, and torque that up to original recommendations. But, again, I refuse to have a torque wrench in my tool box now.

Professional bike racer mechanics use them, as do top-spec mechanics working on mega buck road vehicles. Also, if doing wheel nuts on a wagon, you have to torque em.

But for us road riders, with the same tiny bolts day in, day out, getting battered by heat, vibration and the elements, there is a good chance of internal corrosion (inside the old bolt), and a weakened shaft (steady on now Lloyd!). It's not uncommon for "the average man" to use a torque wrench on an original bolt, and it twists or sheers the head clean off, with the swearing and the exclamation "but I tightened it according to the manual"!

If you really feel the need to use one (and ok, this will be a nice new shiny bolt), back the wrench off a few NMs. But, best of all, is to learn to "feel" the bolts when tightening with a socket. After a while, you can hear a tiny "ping" or "click" from the bolt, and that's it telling you it's reached the point. Sometimes, you can feel the "bounce" on a bolt when tightening (or a bit of spring back). Again, that's the time to not tighten any further. If ya do, then you'll sheer the bolt.

In reality, the only chance the axle nut has in coming off, is if some bugger spots it and wants it, who just happens to be carrying his own spanner.

with a long thread like that you're "all torque" matey.

[TheGingerBeardMan]

yer "all torque" matey....

Erm.. Yers. Sorry. I have been known to be able to "torque" the hind legs off a donkey...

[lumpyv]

got mine today. Looks very much Like the existing one?

[MacV2]

got mine today. Looks very much Like the existing one?

It will do except it's shiny & made of stainless steel so wont rust, unlike the origional...

[Watty]

Got mine too