Bikes been sitting too long, now does not want to start.

[Tempest]

Just needed to post this............

Since taking carbs all apart, ultrasonic cleaning all jets, and a whole tin of carb cleaner !!!!, cotton buds and LOTS of time, to get all super clean.

got and modded some new stainless screws and made a long custom allen ket driver (to replace the silly screw head bolts that hold the carbs on the bike) plus a few other bits.....

Tonight finally reattached, the cleaned virgin carbs to the bike again. connected all hoses. Routed Choke in a different, better way (think it was routed wrong before!)
Rigged up a temp fuel container (made at work also)

double checked everything, looked nothing obvious out of place....

Tuned on ignition (on the bike that's not run, pretty much at all for 2 years, and would pretty much not start at all)
Pressed the starter, (assuming I'd have to wait for some fuel to get thru the system, if indeed it would even fire up at all)

And, Yessssssss, Instantly it fired up and started running. Few BANGS from one pot to start with, the odd crackle, but after a bit settled down....
Very happy

Was late, so could not run for long.
Air box not on, and could see the carbs working

Had the very very occasional POP and just a couple of flashes in the carbs! over the course of a few mins. Needs time to settle I'm sure, and Airbox will I guess help with the balance of the whole thing.

Couple of questions......

As I've removed the Carbs, and lost the coolant that was running thru the carbs, do you think I need to bleed the coolant system? (a pain) or may just be ok, topping up ?

Secondly, do you think I need to worry about balancing the carbs as I have no means to do it, and am not buying equipment just for a one-off use.

[Wicky]

Well done While you've got the airbox off it will be worth fitting a vacuum take-off plug on the front cylinder, and some plugged hose so you can at least take it to a workshop for somebody else to easily balance the carbs later without needing to dismantle half the bike. Or there are on fleabay simple inxpensive plastic tube type balancers for a few quid.

Look in the Workshop knowledgebase - How to balance carbs DIY

As for topping up coolant get it all back together running and see if the reservoir level has dropped below spec - and if it needs topping up - top it up with some distilled water. In fact you might as well do a good flush through and put new coolant in as its been sitting for so long. Same for engine oil and brake and clutch fluid. The downloadable and searchable Honda service manual PDF is again the Workshop knowledgebase.

[Tempest]

Thanks, yes I saw the ball bearing gizmo

TBH, I've not touched that, and from me very carefully looking at the butterflies, when I was doing other aspects of the carb clean, physically they seem very well matched.

If I may go back to the coolant issue.
I did change it a while ago, my query really is this:

I had to pull the coolant pipes off the carbs, obviously, which probably lost, say half a cup, or less out the system. Just what was in the tube going across the carbs, and a little dribble, as the pipes were pulled, so let's go crazy and say half a cup..

Now it's all back together, obviously there was nothing in the carb tubes.

Would you expect the pump to simply refill this empty pipe and just drop the level in the white coolant tank a bit (to top up) or might this cause an air gap?
I presume, the pump will just pump fresh fluid around, and any empty pipes (carbs) will be filled instantly again.

I just wondered. Time ran out, so did not have time to check if the white tank level had gone down an "appropriate" amount.
I know many here have done the carb removal bit, so wondered what normally happens?
You need to re-bleed the coolant system to remove an air pocket due to carb removal, or, as I said, it simply refills the pipes, and you just need to add the missing back into the white coolant tank?

Thanks

[Wicky]

I did change it a while ago

How long is a "while" ago?

If it runs abnormally hot then air in the system could well be a cause so then you'll need to bleed the coolant system. (see page 100 in the Service Manual)

[8541Hawk]

There is no need to bleed the cooling system as it will fill those lines no worries.

[AMCQ46]

Great news that it runs now... Result

And like hawk said, there is no need to pale end the coolant system, but if you are topping up do it via the rad cap hidden under the right side faring rather than the overflow bottle

[Tempest]

Great news that it runs now... Result

And like hawk said, there is no need to pale end the coolant system, but if you are topping up do it via the rad cap hidden under the right side faring rather than the overflow bottle

Thanks Wicky
Thanks 8541Hawk
Thanks AMCQ46

Ok, understood about the filling up. I've never even really looked close at that "Hidden Rad Cap"

Can I actually get to it, to top up the coolant without messing around with the faring (As I really don't want to take the whole faring off just to do this)

If I wanted to, at some point, actually drain the coolant right down, then I would have to take the faring off wouldn't I ?

Thanks

[Wicky]

Puzzled that you said you changed your coolant a while ago then now ask how to access the radiators?

Taking the fairing off is a 10 minute job to access what you need to do a coolant change.

VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025

Haynes VTR Firestorm Manual > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR1000 ... 5b15dcf658

[Tempest]

Puzzled that you said you changed your coolant a while ago then now ask how to access the radiators?

Taking the fairing off is a 10 minute job to access what you need to do a coolant change.

VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025

Haynes VTR Firestorm Manual > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR1000 ... 5b15dcf658

Thanks.
I was not very clear with what I said previously.
I had the coolant changed a while back, when the bike was having front fork seals replaced, but I'd not done it physically myself. Apologies for the misunderstanding (was late!)

10 mins eh?

I've heard that before with other jobs and even my car.

Yes, a person who is focused, know's exactly what they are doing and have done it many times before can only take 10 mins.... For me (guessing as I go and looking for tools, then finding things I need to change/address as I go, probably more like an entire weekend!

Just wondering if I can loosen one side, just enough to gain access to the Rad top/bottom (wherever) without taking the whole thing off.

[popkat]

Well done on getting it running

Don't worry about the coolant it should have only been a dribble.

Hope the tap your getting works ok and your good to go..


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