Crush rubbers
Crush rubbers
What are the symptoms one will experience if the crush rubbers are starting to fail??
Re: Crush rubbers
There will be too much play in the rear wheel drive, it will snatch when you open and shut the throttle, a bit like there's a mechanical gap instead of a smooth delivery and shut of, to check, put the bike on a padock stand, put it in gear, hold the rear sprocket with one hand and try to turn the wheel back and forward with the other, you should feel a resistance as if you where pushing against hard rubber, I'm not sure if there's any allowance, if there is then I'm sure someone will be along to tell you, but in my opinion if there's any play then they're shot, beware of none original aftermarket ones, I got some and they didn't last very long, I now have original Honda ones fitted, yes they cost a bit more but they last longer
Don't forget with a Firestorm being a V twin there's a lot of torque going through to the back wheel so it is a part that will need replacing quite often, hope this helps

Don't forget with a Firestorm being a V twin there's a lot of torque going through to the back wheel so it is a part that will need replacing quite often, hope this helps

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Do what you like He who wonders isn't always lost
Do what you like He who wonders isn't always lost
Re: Crush rubbers
Thanks for the reply Kev. At present the symptom I am experiencing is a mild secondary slack takeup when I dip and re-introduce the clutch in 1st gear. Chain is tensioned correctly before Kev tries the say anything



- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7301
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Re: Crush rubbers
Have you got a centre stand or a paddock stand?
Get the back wheel off the ground, put the bike in gear and slowly rotate the back wheel forward to take up all the slack in your chain. Then, keeping a careful eye on the chain sprocket (Carrier) in relation to the main wheel hub release the tension and slowly rotate the other way.
If the wheel and the carrier don't move at exactly the same time or it looks like the hub can be moved a couple of mm more than the sprocket carrier the they are shot and need replacing.
Pete.l
Get the back wheel off the ground, put the bike in gear and slowly rotate the back wheel forward to take up all the slack in your chain. Then, keeping a careful eye on the chain sprocket (Carrier) in relation to the main wheel hub release the tension and slowly rotate the other way.
If the wheel and the carrier don't move at exactly the same time or it looks like the hub can be moved a couple of mm more than the sprocket carrier the they are shot and need replacing.
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
Re: Crush rubbers
Thanks Pete shall do that this weekend 
