nothings ever simple, all I want is a decent solder to connect the wires to an indicator housing, but after searching the web, i'm none the wiser as the choices are endless.
I was going with a 60/40 0.71mm qualitek, is this good, god only knows.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Qualitek-Sold ... 623uzMFoLw
any advice on the subject is welcomed.
which solder
- lloydie
- Posts: 20928
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: In the garage somewhere in Coventry
Re: which solder
Get yourself this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171798440748
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171798440748
Re: which solder
He want's solder, not a soldering ironlloydie wrote:Get yourself this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171798440748

I don't think there's a great deal in it these days, just don't inhale fumes from the lead stuff!
Re: which solder
I always use the maplins lead free stuff when we've got soldering to do at work on some of the older style railway equipment, never had any problems with it 

- bigtwinthing
- Posts: 5577
- Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: which solder
halfords will have something too Marty
missing the noise, not the vibes. However never say never!
Re: which solder
I do quite a bit of soldering - mostly on circuit boards, but also general wiring stuff.
A few things that will help:
- Soldering iron - bigger tends to be better, a 60W model should do most bike wiring. I do electronics with a 15W, it won't touch heavier cabling.
- I always use a tin/lead solder, look for a "eutectic" solder - this gives the lowest melting point of a tin/lead alloy, around 63% tin, 37% lead. I tried the lead-free stuff, hated it. As long as you're not soldering 12 hours a day, the fumes won't do too much damage.
- Get some rosin flux - something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144096145843 ... OSwkexe3lW~ and dip both parts to be soldered in it.
- Get one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393423701854 ... SwhLZcor5Z and use it to keep the tip of your soldering iron clean.
- Cover the resulting joint with glue-lined heat shrink: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331812012398 ... SwZtJW9Adb
Hope this helps,
Ian
A few things that will help:
- Soldering iron - bigger tends to be better, a 60W model should do most bike wiring. I do electronics with a 15W, it won't touch heavier cabling.
- I always use a tin/lead solder, look for a "eutectic" solder - this gives the lowest melting point of a tin/lead alloy, around 63% tin, 37% lead. I tried the lead-free stuff, hated it. As long as you're not soldering 12 hours a day, the fumes won't do too much damage.
- Get some rosin flux - something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144096145843 ... OSwkexe3lW~ and dip both parts to be soldered in it.
- Get one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393423701854 ... SwhLZcor5Z and use it to keep the tip of your soldering iron clean.
- Cover the resulting joint with glue-lined heat shrink: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331812012398 ... SwZtJW9Adb
Hope this helps,
Ian
Ian
All of the gear, no idea...
All of the gear, no idea...