1. Clutch cover and alternator cover, fitted with matching Kevlar and Carbon Fibre crash protection from Carbonadi.
These aren't the cheap skins you can buy for a few pounds, they are thick and tough enough to cope with a drop. Have a look at the thickness of the material on the alt side where the inspection cover sits, it took me hours to machine the holes!
There is a small mark on the alt cover where the edge of the fairing sits against it:
And as a sweetener they come with a full stainless allen bolt set.
I think they're worth £150, as (as long as you haven't just damaged your own ones) you can sell your own ones to recoup some of the money. Plus postage to your address unless you collect from Sevenoaks, Kent or Clapham, London
2. Fuel pump conversion- a recommended mod for a track day bike.
When I had mine fitted it sat neatly in the vee between the cylinders, meaning that you remove the coolant catch tank and fit a nice neat HRC overflow bottle instead- so I'll throw one of those in.
I used two dry-break lines with 8mm fittings on the two fuel lines from the tank, so it makes the tank easy and quick to remove. The flow rate is way higher than you will ever use even on track with a wot, so no worries there. You tee the two lines together and feed into the pump., then the pump outlet tees into the two carbs.
There is one other mod to do with this mod- as I found out when trying to keep my bike running on the way to Devon last year
but I sussed it in the end. The fuel tap diaphragm is "sucked" into the closed position by the pump's "vacuum" which stops fuel flowing. To stop this happening, all I did was to disassemble the fuel tap and place the small spring on the other side of the diaphragm- simples. That's on the early fuel tap type, the later one is ok, just remove the fuel tap and connect up the dry breaks instead. And that will save some weight!
Including overflow bottle, relay, fuse and wiring, ready to go, £45 plus postage.
3. Useful spare, or replace a scraped one.
DHM crash bung, spare bung- no brackets, only one for sale, not a pair.
I had a set fitted and bought a spare in case I dropped it, but you can't get these any more.
£10 plus postage or collect from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, SW London.
4. Yoshimura Works Edition steering stem nut, in titanium grey.
No marks or missing paint.
£20 posted
5. Lightened flywheel. SOLD
Not machined to the last possible gram, as I've ridden some bikes fitted with flywheels machined down to the lowest weight, and they are a bit "hair trigger", but this gives a smooth engine, much quicker engine pickup and good engine braking. It's an easy mode, and makes the bike feel a lot more lively. However, taken to extremes you lose the markings telling you where the crank position is, whereas this one has the markings intact. Highly recommended if you haven't done this already.
Postage is going to be a little expensive, as it's still a heavy item, but unless you can collect from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, London, it'll just be postage at cost.
£50
6. Now a big ticket item- unobtanium bling.
A pair of cylinder heads, in good condition, fitted with 1mm over size inlet valves, as recommended by Roger of Revolution Racing.
I was after the valves for this conversion a long time, until i managed to track down the original manufacturer who made the valves for the racing project. They had a few left, so i bought them. They now have none left. so this is probably your last chance to buy, unless you want to get some valves manufactured (I checked prices for this- it ain't cheap is all i'm saying!).
I had the heads machined to take the larger valves, and these have been running only a couple of months before I broke the bike. The head faces were skimmed to give a clean face, very little material was removed so it won't affect compression much, if at all. These heads just bolt on in place of your old ones....
I've never seen a pair of heads for sale with oversize inlet valves (apparently there's no advantage increasing the size of the exhausts), so I think that they're worth a fair bit. I'm not sure how much, though, as there have never been any sold that I'm aware of, so there's no guide price.
So I'm listing them at £400, plus postage or collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, London.
I'm not leaving them on here for long, though, so snap them up or they go on Ebay.
Enjoy- I have!
Obviously they come complete with the matching cams, cam caps, buckets, shims, (shouldn't need re-shimming, but check for yourself when installed)
7. Phew! back to affordable: Sold! Front brake lines, Goodrich full length ones so they both go onto the master cylinder and run right down to the caliper- no over-the-mudguard connector pipe to bleed -('cause they are a PAIN)- and I will include the MC bano bolt, and a pressure switch for the brake light.
They are stainless steel braided, covered with smoke grey sleeves. One of them has a tiny nick in the braiding at the lower end, but that's covered with the Goodrich yellow sleeve and so cannot be seen- I've tried to show it in the photo.
Lengths are 680 and 720 +/-5mm
£20 plus postage or collect from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, SW London.
8. Acumen combined voltage and gear indicator. SOLD
A gear indicator is a very useful addition, as these bikes don't come with 7th as standard
And the voltage display is also useful- it will give you instant warning of a failed Reg/Rec, and save you cooking the battery, but also will let you know if you're taking too much current with high-powered accessories, before it interferes with the engine's ignition, with a flat battery.
I have posted a how-to installation guide in the Workshop Knowledgebase, so it should be difficult to add it in.
You can see the Velcro i used to stick it on top of the clocks, it's easily seen there, but you can choose your own location.
the display is red, and it's bright enough to be easily seen during the day, but has an auto-dimming feature so that it's not too bright at night. This takes its inputs from the speedo and tacho, so doesn't need additional magnets and levers on the gearchange lever, which don't work very well (if you want one of the cheap ones, I have one for a fiver you can have....it was never fitted).
It's complete with the electrical connections and fuse to connect back to the battery, and turns on and off with the ignition. I have the instructions to go with it.
For the Acumen, £35 plus postage or collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, SW London.
9. A pair of Bazza Manual CCT's which I was using in my own engine, now surplus to requirements, good condition, £32 posted, or £30 collected from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, SW London.
10. Seat, standard, good condition, no splits, tears, worn stitching, mostly unclenched by buttock- £30 plus postage or collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, or Clapham, SW London. I could photograph it but it looks like all other seats, but without the split covered with gaffer tape that yours has.
11. Centre fairing section, black, original, clean and tidy, usable as is. There are small paint chips visible in the photos, but these are where the screen or side fairing panels rub, so can't be seen when it's fitted. There are no marks, in the first picture it's a reflection.
All fixings, lugs etc intact and undamaged. £25 collected from Sevenoaks or Clapham.
12. Left hand side fairing section in black, with a crack under the indicator hole. easy fix.
Paint has some marks, depending on how the rest of your panels are you might want to use as is( with the crack fixed) but I'd respray it.
There is one extra hole drilled in (on the flat bit below your wrist when riding) where I think someone has had an alarm led.
£10 collected from Sevenoaks or Clapham.
Scratch, might teecut out..
Crack:
What's left?
Clocks with LED and white face conversion, complete tail section with carbon fibre undertray, undamaged but resprayed graphite grey tail plastic, good straight rear frame subsection, radiators, std rearsets, passenger peg hangers, brake mc, and a set of Kevlar clutch plates with clutch basket/housing/pressure plate if needed, just ask if you're after anything. Oh, and my standard downpipes with two Lambda sensors fitted, and the display carbon fibre display housing two displays which show in realtime the air/fuel mixture as you ride- saves a fortune on dyno time- display shows front and rear cylinder separately and updates continuously as you ride.
Downpipes are sprayed with high temperature metallic graphite paint, could do with a clean and respray now, though.
The carbon display houses a 12V socket and an Optimate port, and has the fused leads already connected.
There's a thread on here showing it working somewhere.
And two frames and a pair of std wheels.
If you're interested in any of those before they go on the Bay of Temptation, let me know.
Thank you for your time, attention and money!
