No power to guages or lights when I turn the key

[IGeorgeI]

Hey Guys

I tried to start the bike after a long winter and the battery was a bit weak so I decided to boost the bike with another battery. Problem is, I accidentally crossed the positive and negative on my cables. Now the bike gets no power at all to anything (lights gauges etc) when I turn the key.

1) I checked all my fuses and they are good
2) I found the main fuse (30 amp) was blown so I changed it

Still no power to gauges or lights when I turn the key?

I read on here that the R/R might be the problem but I cant see how I could have fried it. The bike was completely off when I hooked up the booster cables, even the key was out of the ignition. When I get home, I will try unhooking the R/R to see if I get power to anything.

Any help appreciated


George


Thanks George

[Wicky]

Could have fried quite a few things on the loom / wiring harness including the CDI black box unit in the tail of the bike.

Download the Workshop manual from the workshop knowledgebase section and methodically follow test procedures using a multimeter with a good fully functioning battery - (and might need a bit a bit of trial and error replacing electric/electronic components with known good ones)

[lockwood1956]

Just had the same situation myself and with the help of the good folk on here sourced it to the rectifier failing whilst not in use ( !!!)

Rectifier replaced and all well again.

[Kev L]

George, will you stop hogging the forum! 2 posts in 13 years, that's just greedy!

[IGeorgeI]

George, will you stop hogging the forum! 2 posts in 13 years, that's just greedy!

I haven't had a problem with the bike in 13 years

[IGeorgeI]

Update !

1) I got home and unplugged the R/R still no power....
2) I then measured the voltage at the R/R and I see 12.5 volts.
3) I then checked the voltage at the main fuse box on the fuse for the odometer. Its got 12.5 volts.

Starting Relay

So from this I have determined that the starter Relay is good because I am getting power at both the R/R and the Main Fuse Box. If it was shorted, then I would not be getting power at those other places.

R/R

I also figure the R/R is not the problem because I still get no power when I unplug the R/R


So now what?

I confirmed that there is a short somewhere because I get 12 volts at the battery until I turn the key, then the voltage drops down to something like 0.2 volts.

The wire at the fuse box that has power is for the Odometer and for some reason that Honda decided, it always gets power. That same wire runs to the ignition switch so that is my next place to hit.

Wish me luck

[darkember]

George, will you stop hogging the forum! 2 posts in 13 years, that's just greedy!

You will make up for it now Check the earthing to the clocks and ignition switch

[IGeorgeI]

Update 2 !

Ignition Switch

I unhooked the ignition switch and tested it with an Ohm meter. It works as advertised!

Wires from Ignition switch back to fuse box

I tested the wires and they are not shorted. So they are Ok in my opinion, the only thing left to look at is the fuse box.

Fuse box

2 of the fuses tested are shorted to ground. The headlamp fuse and the Meter-tail-illumination fuse. I am pretty sure this is normal because these circuits go from light bulbs to ground

So now what!

I am not sure .........I think I am going to bring the battery (new last year) and bring it to my work to load test it.


Tired and going to bed

[firestorm_al]

Have you ckecked the kill switch position on the right hand bar?

[Stratman]

I had something similar when my battery was flat. Jump started, but no indicators and the lights turned the speedo off etc.

It was a dead battery - completely fubar. New battery and all is well.

[tony.mon]

The battery is the most likely suspect.
The other battery you tried to jump start it with- try removing the bike's battery and connecting the good one with jump leads, You won't get a good enough connection to turn the starter motor but everything else should work.

[IGeorgeI]

Update 3 Final!

Yes, the problem was the battery, there were 3 things that really through me off through this whole thing that I hope others will learn by.

1) Measuring a battery voltage with a volt meter means nothing as to its condition. You need to put a load on it to really know how healthy it is. Hence that's why shops use a load tester on batteries

2) I thought the lights etc on my bike would have come on a bit and would be dim if the battery was the problem. I didn't expect them to be all dead.

3) I honestly didn't think that reversing the polarity with another battery would fry my healthy battery so quickly. I mean I barely had the clamp on when it sparked and I pulled the booster cable away. It probably touched for less than 1/2 a second.

Well everything is working well and the bike was started for the first time this spring. Just waiting for some nicer weather to take it out for the first ride.

Thanks for everyone's help, I really appreciated the suggestions.

George

[Kev L]

Nice to see you George, check back in sooner than 13 yrs fella!

[Duffy1964]

Glad you got it sorted George

[fabiostar]

Happy days alls good then