CCT stopper mod question

[wbonx]

Hello again, I got convinced to save my ass bike by doing the CCT stop mod.

I'm following the tutorial on the forum but there're two things I still don't get.

1 - Why in the first point Sirch talks about setting the valve timing on the engine? With the stop mod I'm not taking out the CCT so if they are in place who cares about the timing?

2 - How do I build the Honda key to take out the caps from the CCTs? Can I avoid some major work by using some similar tools or forcing them out?

Thanks.

[AMCQ46]

you have to take the CCT out to do the stopper mod. so you MUST be on the correct TDC [note that there are 2 TDC's in a 4 stroke engine and you must be on the firing TDC] before you take out the CCT or the cam will move.

again this is not so important on an inline 4 engine, but on a single [a V twin is 2 single cylinders on one crank] this is not safe as the cam will move.

did I mention that the CAM WILL MOVE

[wbonx]

Ohh my god this is so retard. Yes I get it. Honda's engineers must habve been on drugs. Is necessary to take them out to access the place where to put the rod. I thought there was a hole in the back like on other bikes CCTs.

[Steve97]

where does he live , maybe one of us could nip over and help him ?

[tony.mon]

where does he live , maybe one of us could nip over and help him ?

Let's all go. What are you doing Saturday?
I'll bring the leftover bacon from Mac's workshop day; it'll probably still be ok.

[wbonx]

where does he live , maybe one of us could nip over and help him ?

Let's all go. What are you doing Saturday?
I'll bring the leftover bacon from Mac's workshop day; it'll probably still be ok.

Yeah.... Saturday I have no plans. I can invite you all for fresh Wurstels and few Pils in Dresden - DE

[wbonx]

.... ahhh and by the way... in 10 days there's the MotoGP 20 minutes west from here... and in September the Superbike 20 minutes east from here.

If any of you wants to pass by ;)



... ahh and there are also two other race tracks, 15euro x slot.

[sirch345]

As AMcQ46 points out, the valve timing is set on the compression stroke at TDC (top dead center). If you do not have the valve timing set correctly the valves could be partly open, that will put the cam chain under load, meaning when you remove the CCT the cam chain will jump the cam shaft sprockets. You will then need to reset the valve timing,

Chris.

[wbonx]

As AMcQ46 points out, the valve timing is set on the compression stroke at TDC (top dead center). If you do not have the valve timing set correctly the valves could be partly open, that will put the cam chain under load, meaning when you remove the CCT the cam chain will jump the cam shaft sprockets. You will then need to reset the valve timing,

Chris.

Yes I got the message. Sometime on the shaft/electric generator -- on the side you have symbols telling you the position of the whole block, thus valves -- piston -- shaft position. From this symbols you can understand the exact point to rotate the shaft to prevent tension on the valves thus avoiding having to disassemble the head cover.

If this is true I'm wondering if it is possible to work directly on the CCTs without disassembling anything, just taking out the side caps to read the signs.
But probably this bike is made in a different way. Have still to give a look.

[AMCQ46]

You can't tell which tdc you are on just looking through the inspection cap in the flywheel, you need to also remove the rear cam cover and look at the position of the cam lobes.

Good news is you don't need to take the front one off as once you know where rear tdc is, you just rotate the engine by a set any,e and you will be on the correct tdc for the front angle.

All the instructions are in the workshop section

[macdee]

You can't tell which tdc you are on just looking through the inspection cap in the flywheel, you need to also remove the rear cam cover and look at the position of the cam lobes.

Good news is you don't need to take the front one off as once you know where rear tdc is, you just rotate the engine by a set any,e and you will be on the correct tdc for the front angle.

All the instructions are in the workshop section

Your not the first to look for a short cut to the cct problem if you listen to what the men have told you you will be 100% sure
No one can stop you giving it a go but your on your own
good luck

[VTRDark]

These bikes are kind of unique which is part of their character. They really are very simple to work on, there's nothing over complicated about them so don't be afraid to get stuck in. Even for those not so mechanically minded I would consider these engines a great training device. Make sure you can get the centre cap off the generator cover as these are made of a really soft metal and have a habit of getting chewed up by the hex head adapter. If you run into problems here you can use a centre punch and a hammer to tap it around, but it will likely need to be replaced after that. Apply some copper grease to the thread when putting it back on.

Set the timing mark at the crank on RT, remove the rear cam cover and check the cam lobes are pointing up and in which tells you your art TDC on the the compression stroke. You then safe to remove the rear tensioner. Do the stopper for the rear tensioners and refit. Turn the crank 1/1/4 turns anti clockwise until your on FT and do the front tensioner.

For pics and a better understanding of the timing see the MCCTS thread in the cyborg links below.

[wbonx]

In the link you can see what I mean, with most of the bikes you can just put the piston in the right position without disassembling the head cover:

http://www.600rr.net/vb/70-diy-write-up ... k-cct.html

[Wicky]

Ignore anything about inline fours! The VTR is a v-twin with its own characteristics which have been explained earlier.

[wbonx]

Ignore anything about inline fours! The VTR is a v-twin with its own characteristics which have been explained earlier.

But still .... there are marks on the generator wheel. I suppose one could tell the position of the shaft in regard to the marks is always the same. I.e. you open the first bike, you see the mark are offset of 30degreee... you put a picture on the forum, all the other users can just put the marks at 30 degreee without each one disassembling anything.

The point of maximum pressur (valves closed) can be found just rotating the shaft/generator. If necessary to discriminate between the two cilinders one could put a screedrivers in the hole of the "sparkling thing" - we call it candle .