Carb Removal Help!

[Alex.]

Hi Guys,

I picked up a VTR a while back, which had been sitting for a couple of years. It had standard cans, but came with a fruity set and the jets to suit.
As it is my first big twin I took it easy for a while and soon wanted more noise, so swapped the cans over and changed the jets.

I did try to remove the carbs and give them a good clean, but as they did not want to come off, I left them in place and just changed the jets from below.

Now she won't rev past 7k. I have checked the fuel tap and that is all good. Next thing I was going to try is a good clean of the carbs, but that needs them off the bike....

At the previous attempt I detached and loosened all the connected hoses, tubes and the rubbers but they would not budge!
Is there a knack to their removal?

Or any other suggestions to fix the revving issue would be gratefully received.

Alex.

[sirch345]

The carbs need a bit of wiggling from side to side as you pull up. There is a bit if a knack to it yes, but as the bikes get older the inlet rubber manifold's get less flexible which doesn't help.

May be one of the carb diaphragms has a split in it, if the petrol tap one is okay,

Chris.

PS. Welcome aboard

[fabiostar]

welcome along first. have you tried putting the standard jets back in and see if it goes back to revving out properly. if it does at least you will know its a jetting problem not a dirty carb problem.

[VTRDark]

Vacuum line to the petcock. See the read me for new members below.

and the jets to suit

I cringe every time I hear this.

just changed the jets from below.

Now that wild be no easy task. How the heck did you manage that. It would have been easier to remove the carbs.

Make sure you loosen off the top bracket around the inlet rubbers that holds the carbs in place. You can access the front one through the little hole in the plastic cowl behind the right hand side rad. And the rear you can get from the left hand side coming down from the top at an angle. Loosen these right off then wiggle the carbs from side to side and they will pop off.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... al#p223894

[alanfjones1411]

Hello and welcome to the forum.Wiggle and jiggle them and they should come off.

[Alex.]

Thanks for the welcome chaps!

Alex.

[Alex.]

The carbs need a bit of wiggling from side to side as you pull up. There is a bit if a knack to it yes, but as the bikes get older the inlet rubber manifold's get less flexible which doesn't help.

May be one of the carb diaphragms has a split in it, if the petrol tap one is okay,

Chris.

PS. Welcome aboard

It is probably the inlet rubbers that are holding the carbs quite firm, I'll wiggle and tug later...
I did check the rear carb diaphragm, as that one is accessible with the airbox off, all seems fine. The spring is rather long!

Alex.

[Alex.]

welcome along first. have you tried putting the standard jets back in and see if it goes back to revving out properly. if it does at least you will know its a jetting problem not a dirty carb problem.

The standard jets would need the standard cans too, that was to be the next step after a carb clean.

Alex.

[Alex.]

Vacuum line to the petcock. See the read me for new members below.

The vacuum line at the tank is sound, I've not checked the other end. How much fuel can flow without the vacuum? Enough for up to 7k?

and the jets to suit

I cringe every time I hear this.

As for the jets, the bike came with the cans and the jets that were taken out when the standard (quiet) cans were put back on. The carbs were jetted for the noisy cans when they were originally fitted. One niggle in my mind is did they adjust anything else to put it back to std, but that would have more of an affect lower down than up top and on the jets.

just changed the jets from below.

Now that wild be no easy task. How the heck did you manage that. It would have been easier to remove the carbs.

1/4" ratchet, appropriately sized screw driver bits, small hands and patience!
It would have been easier to take the carbs off, but they didn't want to play ball...

Alex.

[MacV2]

Loosen front & rear carb rubber clamps...thin jubbile clip type things, there are two per stub, loosen the top one.

Then put a pry bar under the carbs & across the frame (bit of rag to stop scratches...) & lever the fekers off...

When it comes to reinstating them, put a bit of lube on the stubs push one side in fully & then wiggle the other end home...ensure both are fully seated, re tighten the clamps & Bobs ya uncles brother twice removed...

[popkat]

I do it Mac's way but use a piece of wood as a pry bar being very carful what I lever on..

The slide spring is very long and difficult to get back in place, it's easy to get wrong and think you have it right but the spring has popped out inside the cover and curled over, this would slow the slide rate and possibly stop it rising and falling properly.



.

[sirch345]

The slide spring is very long and difficult to get back in place, it's easy to get wrong and think you have it right but the spring has popped out inside the cover and curled over, this would slow the slide rate and possibly stop it rising and falling properly.

.

That sounds like a good thing to check next, seeing as you removed and refitted the rear slide spring,

Chris.

[fabiostar]

welcome along first. have you tried putting the standard jets back in and see if it goes back to revving out properly. if it does at least you will know its a jetting problem not a dirty carb problem.

The standard jets would need the standard cans too, that was to be the next step after a carb clean.

Alex.

iv had two different types of open cans on mine and its still running a bit rich on standard jets..

[VTRDark]

That sounds like a good thing to check next, seeing as you removed and refitted the rear slide spring,

Smear a dab of grease around the groove where the lip of the diaphram rubber sits around the edge to help hold it place while refitting the spring and cap so it does not get pinched. Compress the spring down inside the cap and then hold close to the slide and pop it all on.

[Kurt999]

^^What he said. Plus to compress the spring, place the cap upside down on a flat surface and put the spring into it's boss. Then put the shaft of a long screwdriver down the middle of the spring and use it to guide the spring into it's boss as you compress it. Then it's a matter of deftly removing the screwdriver whilst holding the spring in place with your index finger, inverting the cap over the carb body, and as you lower the cap into place pulling out your finger without dislodging the diaphram or firing the spring across the room and blinding the cat. Usually only takes about 904 attempts to correctly assemble the carbs.

To ensure that the diaphram is in position, after the carbs are reassembled , check that each slide has resistance when you push it upwards and that they both fall in a controlled way and at about the same rate.

:-)

K