Anyone weld up an orig exehaust and dyno it? Plus stock comp

[RedStormJ]

I love fabrication and cant be bothered to spend over 200 on something I can make better for the same price. My idea is a single side 2 into 1. I think the stock system has 2 bottlenecks besides size. the 2 into 1 into 2 is a mess me thinks. Also the pipe size choice seems daringly wrong. My audi which restricts 60 h.p. over my 3 inch set was 2 1/2 at the header into 2 all the way down the line until it exited. The honda looks like 1.75 at the flange which is good then goes to what looks like a 3/4 where the pipes meet. then back to 1.75 to 2 to 1/2 at the rear!!!! WTF! I actually didnt notice this until I took the bike off the shop truck for the first spin. I want to keep or sell my factory set unless they are worth dirt in that case id gut one side by cutting the weld and installing mesh and fiberglass to absorb sound.
The underneath looks like quickly bandaided trash from factory. Everyone says contact roger Ditchfeild but id imagine he would want some cash for his trouble.
Whose already saved me some trouble or am I going to be the braniac. I dont plan on doing this until I finish new internals with some sweet injection which it seems only the guy on tripod cars has unless im searching wrong.
150 h.p. and a nice band should not be an impossible number. I was warned to get a billet crank probably someone has hit like 130 and snapped a few so ill heed advice.

[Wicky]

If you want that kind of BHP +EFI then you'd be better off realistically starting with a SP1 / SP2 (RC51) at 130bhp compared to the Storms 100odd horsies. Unless you can locate moriwaki performance parts in Japan going very cheap.

Dyne Charts - http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=36

http://www.moriwaki.co.jp

http://www.revolutionuk.co.uk

VTR SP1/2 Stage 1 = 130+ BHP Porting & Gasflowing, Tuned Slip-ons, PC3R + K&N filters, Airbox mods, Cooling fins, Fork tune, Penske Shock

Stage 2 = 140+BHP H/C Pistons, Porting & Gasflowing, Full engine”Blueprint”, Full tuned Exhaust system, Airbox mods (Special airbox and front scoop for Track only usage) PC3R + K&N filters, Cooling fins, Fork tune, Penske shock

Stage 3 = 158+BHP Full HRC/Moriwaki/ Revolution RACE ONLY Bike. This bike has everything and is capable of being competitive at top National level.

VTR1000F Stage 1A to 3 110 – 150 BHP. A truly great riding experience. The Stage 3 was raced by Mark Ditchfield and “guest” raced by Gus Scott in British Superbikes. This was reported in Performance Bikes as ‘a fantastic ride’. This is truly a great bike.

[alanfjones1411]

Get rid of it and buy yourself a ZX12r.Job done.

[VTRDark]

LOL Exactly.

The honda looks like 1.75 at the flange which is good then goes to what looks like a 3/4 where the pipes meet. then back to 1.75 to 2 to 1/2 at the rear!!!! WTF

It's all to do with the pulses, fluid dynamics and shock waves. Ideally especially with a V Twin the exhaust should be tapered down coming out of the head and then taper back up and out the cans with a set length of whatever diameter pipe in the middle. And when you have two to deal with of varying lengths it complicates matters. There is a reason the the rear header pipe loops around and more expensive aftermarket headers put smaller balance pipes between the two.

Check out the links in the following post if you want to learn more about exhaust theory and how to design one. Or you can just try your luck and see if you can do better than Honda with all their R&R and expensive equipment for testing. This is one complicated issue and up there with porting. If your doing it for performance, TBH it has to go hand in hand with engine modifications for any real gains. And don't forget to take the length and diameter of your end cans into consideration with overall length.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 15#p334553

[AMCQ46]

150 h.p. and a nice band should not be an impossible number. I was warned to get a billet crank probably someone has hit like 130 and snapped a few so ill heed advice.

. I always ride around 2200rpm because in japan the limit is usually 40kph or 20 mph. I

I thought you rode round at 2200revs, you wont be needing 150hp

[tony.mon]

150 h.p. and a nice band should not be an impossible number. I was warned to get a billet crank probably someone has hit like 130 and snapped a few so ill heed advice.

. I always ride around 2200rpm because in japan the limit is usually 40kph or 20 mph. I

I thought you rode round at 2200revs, you wont be needing 150hp

That's Rocket Three territory....

If you want to put together some trial systems I suggest you put together a frame, empty engine cases with heads, footrests and sump.
That way you can use it as a jig to weld up some systems and dyno them to see what works.
I have one for sale, but shipping to your neck of the woods might be a barrier!

However it's interesting to see what Honda did with the Sp1 and Sp2 to get the extra power reliably. Of particular interest is the exhaust port architecture.
I bought an SP1 engine to strip and examine before porting Storm heads- it might pay you to do the same.
Clue: The exhaust port is partially blocked...

Lastly the collector, where the two pipes join under the shock, has a restrictor in the R|H can outlet stub. this means that the LH can gets most of the exhaust pressure. Understand why and you'll be on the right track.

Ultimately, unless you want to treat this a san interesting project, sell it and buy something more suited to your needs, as it can be a money pit.
On the other hand, most of the tuning parts still available seem to come out of Japan, so without import duties and shipping you might be able to do it cheaper.

Good luck whichever way you go.

[Wicky]

Tony - did you catch this in MCN with interesting insights into the development of the SP2 > http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2016 ... ap-part-2/

[tony.mon]

Tony - did you catch this in MCN with interesting insights into the development of the SP2 > http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2016 ... ap-part-2/

Thanks, no, I hadn't seen it.
Funny, the dash melting thing was not an issue on my bike until we went to Mac's workshop day earlier this year. It has a few shiny spots now!
Ah well, I'll get a carbon sticker dash face thingy to hide it.

There was an article in Performance Bikes recently saying that the wheel spacers are dished on later bikes, which stops the chatter. I thought it wasn't too likely to have any substance, but checked the part numbers, and yes, the 1's and 2's have dished spacers whereas the SP-Y has flat ones....

[RedStormJ]

Thanks all. I have read most of what you guys posted before posting up. The VTR is not uncommon here and I wanted to keep a monster inside a stock ferring amd engine case. If I upgraded it would be the super blackbird. This bike feels too nice. All mods done and I still wouldnt hit the price of a newer bike. I think the efi will be the big winner in the equasion. Sorry for a late reply as I had the ferring off doing some cleanup and limiter delete. I can build a jig but no dyno. 1/4 mile is out too as ive never seen a straight that long here. My big stop now is finding a crank as ive herd the stock one wont take it. I may machine it and pray but id rather source everything before it comes apart. Exehaust theory is a mother but the sizes on the stock bike are clearly wrong. If I am grounded by the wife still Ill at least clean up the stocker and make it one sided. Maybe ... I need more info. As for now I added weight replacing rusty fastners with stainless and painted the front sub as it was rusted. Well see.... But really guys thanks for the advice and info. I may put a turbo on but I dont think it suits a twin looks are a factor. I could hide it under my belly cover but still... Im stuck as what to do. And rpm wise yeah now I ride around in first or second or option 3..... I like option 3. I dont look at the clock on my left and look out for speed traps.

[lumpyv]

i think lloydie was doing something with an exhaust system a couple of years ago ( a VTR, not a human/ewe).

I seem to recall he was trying to make a 2 to 1 system??

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... it=exhaust

here you go

[Wicky]

Exehaust theory is a mother but the sizes on the stock bike are clearly wrong.

Then either get a full race exhaust (i.e. Moriwaki £$£$£$ ) or fabricate a copy yourself or commision one to be made (£$£$£$)

[VTRDark]

Your dreaming.....new crank. Might be easier to go and rob the Moriwaki museum. But if you want to be a little more realistic and considering how much more easier it will be for you to get the parts where you are, then Mori hi comp pistons and a full mori race exhaust and you will have a nice little boost in power and is within the realms of possibility. Cranks where only replaced in the IIRC the stage 3's along with a reinforced frame amongst other things, pistons, con rods, cams, carbs, ram air etc etc etc LOL I'm sorry but if you want a bike with silly BHP then you have the wrong bike. Anyway what's the point if you have nowhere to use it.

[RedStormJ]

Thanks again guys. I think a cnc billet isnt outta the question though. I dont know why people say at such and such hp the engine is gonna blow. I do understand stress and pressure causing one to snap apart like a twig. One thig you guys gotta remember is im used to spending 10 times more for parts. I should elaborate a bit. My engine of choice is the audi belt drive 4.2 everything on that engine needs to be made as there isnt a market for it. so a small crank isnt outlandish but ill let you guys know if it ever happens.... ;). Ill keep dreaming.
Ill ask about that two i to one once I get enough posts.

[Stephan]

If you are not going to use stage2 or stage3 cams, billet crank is useless, for stage1 bike up to 150 hp on engine is stock crank, and rods as well, perfectly ok.

[RedStormJ]

You really think itll handle it. Id hate to wipe out my new parts. I want to machine the crank a bit and rebalance it to spec anyways. I never herd of a honda loosing a crank even on the track. Talking cars but I helped build a 900 hp 7 second fire breathing dragon ek civic. Turbo was bigger than my head and that crank is stock material. I forget the hp per piston 125 or something insane. So id assume the crank will hold but ive been told no its pressed. Been tryin to order one.