Cooling it
Cooling it
Hi guys, new to the forum but havr a couple questions in regards to my storm.
What sort of temperature in degrees c would the coolant normally be
What tenperature does the fan kick in ?
Only reason i ask these two questions is my bike is fitted with an HRC coolant overflow bottle , and about 20 mins into ridding it in the city and its boiling and spitting coolant all out of the overflow bottle.
Its also fitted with a koso clock so no temp guage.
The pump looks to be working.
Im just curious as to whether the fact the overflow bottle isnt the standard sealed ( its fairly open ) unit which is causing my kettle issue i have.
Also the radiators seem absolutley stinking hot when i get off.
I will be fitting a koso digi temp guage in the next few days, anybody know the wire colour to the clocks for the temp sender ?
Thanks !
What sort of temperature in degrees c would the coolant normally be
What tenperature does the fan kick in ?
Only reason i ask these two questions is my bike is fitted with an HRC coolant overflow bottle , and about 20 mins into ridding it in the city and its boiling and spitting coolant all out of the overflow bottle.
Its also fitted with a koso clock so no temp guage.
The pump looks to be working.
Im just curious as to whether the fact the overflow bottle isnt the standard sealed ( its fairly open ) unit which is causing my kettle issue i have.
Also the radiators seem absolutley stinking hot when i get off.
I will be fitting a koso digi temp guage in the next few days, anybody know the wire colour to the clocks for the temp sender ?
Thanks !
Re: Cooling it
Greetings
VTR running temperature > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16235
Normal running temp is about a ¼ of way up - It will run hotter in stop start town conditions if the ambient temps are summery - enough for the fan to kick in. You might want to consider servicing the cooling system (replacing it with fresh coolant), burping it and testing the thermostat so it's all running optimally - and if the problem persists replacing the race track bottle with the larger capacity stock reservoir.
VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025
VTR running temperature > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16235
Normal running temp is about a ¼ of way up - It will run hotter in stop start town conditions if the ambient temps are summery - enough for the fan to kick in. You might want to consider servicing the cooling system (replacing it with fresh coolant), burping it and testing the thermostat so it's all running optimally - and if the problem persists replacing the race track bottle with the larger capacity stock reservoir.
VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025
Hayne's manual has a colour wiring diagram at the back - or there'll be a scan of it posted somewhere here if you have a search.I will be fitting a koso digi temp guage in the next few days, anybody know the wire colour to the clocks for the temp sender ?
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Re: Cooling it
The standard overflow bottle is the same principle as the HRC you have fitted, just smaller in volume. It has a pipe from the radiator cap, and another going out an overflow to atmosphere.
You fill the radiator to the brim, all the reservoir is there is to catch the fluid that expands when it gets hot. When the coolant cools it will syphon back into the radiator as the pressure cap has a two way valve.
As long as the HRC bottle is not empty when the bike is cold, then there should be no problems other than hot coolant over your leg.
You fill the radiator to the brim, all the reservoir is there is to catch the fluid that expands when it gets hot. When the coolant cools it will syphon back into the radiator as the pressure cap has a two way valve.
As long as the HRC bottle is not empty when the bike is cold, then there should be no problems other than hot coolant over your leg.
Re: Cooling it
Haynes is on order.
I do understand its the same principle, i just dont know why its actually boiling in the resiviour. Would it boil over in a standard resiviour bottle ?
It is empty upon start up, fills about half way, then drains back into it when it cools down.
Im probably going to remove the themostat but doubt thats the problem as collant is obviosly reaching the radiators. It has fresh collant in it.
I do understand its the same principle, i just dont know why its actually boiling in the resiviour. Would it boil over in a standard resiviour bottle ?
It is empty upon start up, fills about half way, then drains back into it when it cools down.
Im probably going to remove the themostat but doubt thats the problem as collant is obviosly reaching the radiators. It has fresh collant in it.
Re: Cooling it
It won't boil over in the standard bottle due to the volume, it much more than the HRC bottle.Martinz wrote:Haynes is on order.
I do understand its the same principle, i just dont know why its actually boiling in the resiviour. Would it boil over in a standard resiviour bottle ?
It is empty upon start up, fills about half way, then drains back into it when it cools down.
Im probably going to remove the themostat but doubt thats the problem as collant is obviosly reaching the radiators. It has fresh collant in it.
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Re: Cooling it
Faulty radiator cap?
Re: Cooling it
Or an airlock or blockage in the system stopping any circulation causing things to boil over. Also be aware that if it has boiled over and you have lost enough fluid it's not a simple case of topping up via the expansion tank. You need to remove the rad cap and fill up from there. There is also a sensor at the top rear of the right hand rad and if fluid level does not reach that point then the fan will never kick in and then consequentially it will boil over again.
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Cooling it
Boiling is usually caused by a faulty radiator cap that won't hold the required system pressure, which then lets the coolant boil in the engine at a lower than usual temperature. Step 1: buy a new radiator cap.
2017 MT-10SP, 2019 Vespa Primavera 150
Re: Cooling it
This was actually my first point of call, looked into in ordering one this morning . £30 bloody quid later...Cadbury64 wrote:Boiling is usually caused by a faulty radiator cap that won't hold the required system pressure, which then lets the coolant boil in the engine at a lower than usual temperature. Step 1: buy a new radiator cap.
So whats this burping method ?
im going to seal the hrc bottle, fit the temp guage, flush the radatiors, check the pump is seated and fit a maunal rad fan switch .....
Re: Cooling it
It sounds like the radiator cap to me as well.
Basically a pressurised system will run hotter without boiling, than a non-pressurised system which you will have if the radiator cap is not functioning as it should.
Also, if you've not already, check the fan is working,
Chris.
Basically a pressurised system will run hotter without boiling, than a non-pressurised system which you will have if the radiator cap is not functioning as it should.
Also, if you've not already, check the fan is working,
Chris.
Re: Cooling it
What makes you say that Al...AMCQ46 wrote:If the fan never kicks in also check the fuse under the seat

Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Cooling it
The fan works 100 percent. The system cooling system is pressurised before the cap, but when its past the cap and in the coolant res its un-pressurised , which would allow it to boil. The only thing i can add is if you pull the overflow pipe out of the coolant res when its hot, there's a good flow of steam coming from pipe ( like a kettle boiling )sirch345 wrote:It sounds like the radiator cap to me as well.
Basically a pressurised system will run hotter without boiling, than a non-pressurised system which you will have if the radiator cap is not functioning as it should.
Also, if you've not already, check the fan is working,
Chris.
- KermitLeFrog
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Re: Cooling it
When this is happening is the fan running? It certainly should be.Martinz wrote:The fan works 100 percent. The system cooling system is pressurised before the cap, but when its past the cap and in the coolant res its un-pressurised , which would allow it to boil. The only thing i can add is if you pull the overflow pipe out of the coolant res when its hot, there's a good flow of steam coming from pipe ( like a kettle boiling )
"I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered" (George Best, RIP)
Re: Cooling it
After a good few mins of it doing it yea it kicks in. Ive been doong some seaching on here an it looks like people have had this prob once or twice before. Cap should turn up today.KermitLeFrog wrote:When this is happening is the fan running? It certainly should be.Martinz wrote:The fan works 100 percent. The system cooling system is pressurised before the cap, but when its past the cap and in the coolant res its un-pressurised , which would allow it to boil. The only thing i can add is if you pull the overflow pipe out of the coolant res when its hot, there's a good flow of steam coming from pipe ( like a kettle boiling )