Front disc bolts

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:21 pm

I'm reassembling my front wheel after powder coating, got bearings, dust seals, spacer etc in ok.
Torquing up the disc bolts one snapped, reading the manual it says they are ALOC bolts and should be replaced with new anyway.
I did a search on here and nothing came up about ALOC bolts, google search suggested its a bolt than can "stretch" as such, and thats why it must be renewed.

Any info on this please?

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:53 pm

Honda recomend you change them but then they would...more £££££'s

I have some spares I can send you how many you need ?

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:28 pm

Thats good of you Mac, first though I might have wrong bolt fitted anyway, mine are 25mm hex head, I've just done a search on David Silver and they should be the cap head type
90106-MBB-000 which when you google brings up 6x17 "Genuine OE Honda Fairing Screw Bolt 90106-MBB-000" also, surely they don't use the same bolts for both?
I suppose I ought to get a good supply of threadlock in too

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:36 pm

https://www.google.co.uk/?client=firefo ... &gfe_rd=cr

This ebay link from that list does say its a fairing bolt but its not its a disc bolt.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OE-Ho ... 1161883701

Dave Silvers http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part ... rt-number/

DS ...http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part ... 106MBB000/

Deff not a hex head !

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:46 pm

When you put in 90106-MBB-000 on Davis Silver it comes up as BOLT. DISK. 6X17 *A, ebay shows Genuine OE Honda Fairing Screw Bolt 90106-MBB-000 - New

As mine are all 6x25 hex head I suppose I should get a full set of 12, although thats another £24, is it any good looking at a local nuts and bolts supplier or just pay the £24 and be done with it?

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:58 pm

Well I put the part number in DS & got disk bolts...see the link...

DS will all ways be a bit dear as they are mainly Honda OEM parts.

You can get the same bolt from a bolt shop BUT they are holding your brake dics on...do you want a cheap bolt to snap when your brakeing fro 130 on that private road ???

Bit dearer but SS & claim same spec. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR1000 ... Sw7aBVHp2h

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:16 pm

Cheers Mac.
Any washer needed with cap heads?
Would you use thread lock, if so what type?

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:09 pm

No washers req - and blue thread lock will do fine. And remember to use a torque wrench to get em to spec. Make sure the mating surface on wheel for the disk is clean & free of any corrosion / powder coating.

popkat · Post by **popkat** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:40 pm

What torque were you doing them up to, Front disc bolts should only be 14ft/lb which is very little and shouldn't snap the bolt. Rear disc is 31ft/lb. I always torque opposites and bring the torque up in 2 or 3 increments..

2 possibilities : Is your torque wrench knackered or was there some blast media in the threads that the bolt picked up on ?

.

popkat · Post by **popkat** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:57 pm

john306 wrote:reading the manual it says they are ALOC bolts and should be replaced with new anyway.
I did a search on here and nothing came up about ALOC bolts, google search suggested its a bolt than can "stretch" as such, and thats why it must be renewed.

Any info on this please?

Same type disc bolts as my old CBR600 race bike, I used to swap discs over to the wet wheels whenever it rained, never replaced the bolts with new ones and never had any problems. At work I only replace disc bolts if the old one is damaged getting it out.. The manual is just Honda cover their butt.

.

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:11 pm

Wicky wrote:No washers req - and blue thread lock will do fine. And remember to use a torque wrench to get em to spec. Make sure the mating surface on wheel for the disk is clean & free of any corrosion / powder coating.

Thanks Wicky, I'll order the threadlock now, all good with mating surfaces as they actually did mask off the surfaces I told them to

john306 · Post by **john306** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:24 pm

popkat wrote:What torque were you doing them up to, Front disc bolts should only be 14ft/lb which is very little and shouldn't snap the bolt. Rear disc is 31ft/lb. I always torque opposites and bring the torque up in 2 or 3 increments..

2 possibilities : Is your torque wrench knackered or was there some blast media in the threads that the bolt picked up on ?
.

popkat,
It's a new torque wrench, the other bolts clicked off ok, thats why I googled ALOC bolts and read they are designed to "stretch" to make them less likely to come loose, although reusing them could cause them to snap.
Saying that, the ones that were on mine were not standard as they were hex head not cap head.

KermitLeFrog · Post by **KermitLeFrog** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:00 pm

The standard OEM Honda cap head bolts have thread lock pre-applied. Blue colour. By all means re-use the old ones and add your own thread lock but new ones are shiny....

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:18 pm

They can snap really easily. I never bother to use a torque wrench on them. Just do them all by feel nice and tight until you feel they about to snap, errrr or getting close to that point and always use some threadlock. A good heavy duty 1/2 inch rachet will do, not a torque wrench with too much leverage or they may just snap unless your good with the feel and know when a bolt is getting to that point of snapping or stripping the thread. Stick some nice Ti ones in there. Doing things up to the exact torque spec in the manual unless a vital engine component is not really necessary. Some folk get all OCD with torque settings. It's only a poxy brake disc and how many bolts are holding it in place. It's not going to fall off.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Tue Sep 13, 2016 10:51 pm

cybercarl wrote:They can snap really easily. I never bother to use a torque wrench on them. Just do them all by feel nice and tight until you feel they about to snap, errrr or getting close to that point and always use some threadlock. A good heavy duty 1/2 inch rachet will do, not a torque wrench with too much leverage or they may just snap unless your good with the feel and know when a bolt is getting to that point of snapping or stripping the thread. Stick some nice Ti ones in there. Doing things up to the exact torque spec in the manual unless a vital engine component is not really necessary. Some folk get all OCD with torque settings. It's only a poxy brake disc and how many bolts are holding it in place. It's not going to fall off.

You're right, they are there only to hold the disc tight to the wheel. The only strength they need is shear strength to resist the forces trying to move the disc relative to the wheel. However there's a lot of heat involved and so the expansion of one component relative to the other may be more than other parts on the bike- this may explain why the torque is higher than it needs to be if all parts were the same temperatures, and there were no heat gradients in play.
I use ti bolts by preference and have never had a problem, except once when I heard an odd ticking noise from
the rear and found one disc bolt was unscrewing and clipping a brake part.
That's a good argument for not overtiğhtening but using threadlock.

VTR1000.ORG

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