Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

[tony.mon]

Calcium, it'll run strongly at low revs but you won't be able to accelerate through to 9000 in any gear if the cams are timed 180 out. Simply ride it, put it in second on a quiet road and let it rev out. If it stops accelerating at around 5000-6000 you need to retime.
If wrong it sounds great at lower revs, though....

[RedStormJ]

Thanks Carl thanks everyone. I had a big issue because timing was out 1 turn. re timed without even taking the rear cover off and shes fine. Dont leave the rear cover on anyone who hasnt done a bunch of engines. I have and I still screwed up with the cover off. I only left it on because I had it off before and knew what was what with the cams and wheel marks.

Thanks again runs good. going to fill it with fluids and get rid of my bald tire.

[RedStormJ]

Update. I have the same issue with low revs. I think when you install the MCT's it messes with the timing compared to how it was with the stock wimpy tensioner. IE the chain is back to proper tension therefor putting the timing back to where it was when new. My front CCT is done but not the rear and the front is farting up a storm. IT idles at 1000 on the line but when I go to give it juice it seems like its dumping fuel in the cylinder as it sometimes backfires and dies. Rides real snappy. It's hard to drive round town. But I have a lot of carb work to do as my linkage isnt even tight.

I peeled my cheeks back today clearing the carbon and moisture out of the pipes. Its strange. I usually know when to shift but I hit a weak spot in the throttle. I said ooh shoot these carbs are really muffed up. It was the rev limiter I was bouncing off from. So for sure upper end is out but lower is agressive. I also have an exhaust leak as posted before but Id say compared to smacked valves she is running great!!!

Thank you all!!!

[Paultandy]

I just got my first vtr and heard lots of rumours about the ccm's so I thought I'd check them mine seem to have got a manual tensioner on the front and a standard tensioner on the back I haven't had it long it seems to sound and ride ok is this a normal thing or do you recommend I change them both to manual any help or advice would be appreciated

[Kev L]

Paul, the front is the normal one to fail, however there is plenty of evidence of the rear letting go as well. Good sense would say change the rear to match the front mate.

Good luck and welcome to the club

[Paultandy]

Thanks for the fast reply I'll change the rear asap would there be any point in checking the front chain tension and the timing etc or would you just leave the front one and only do the back one

[VTRDark]

Do you trust whoever installed the front. Wouldn't it be a good idea to check things and learn a bit about your engine at the same time while you at it. Who knows maybe this will give you the confidence to check the valve clearances when next due. Depends on how much time you have and your confidence. Easy for me to say as I take pleasure out of stripping an engine down and learning the in's and out's.

[Paultandy]

I'm not too bad at my mechanical skills I will definitely be changing the back tensioner I will definitely be checking the front anyway thanks for the reply

[geeman22]

One thing from experience I would say to use a thread lock on the bolts holding the tensioner to the block as these can vibrate loose

[Paultandy]

Can someone tell me if my bike sounds ok just tightend the mcct on the front as it was loose. Rode my bike from work the other day and noticed a tapping noise and found the ccm to be finger tight. Hopefully all is ok

[Wicky]

Hard to tell - but sounds okay. How have you measured it? finger tight then back a ¼ turn or physically measure the chain deflection > See workshop knowledebase on how to set MCCTs

Sounds like:

Cement mixer full of nuts, bolts and cutlery = much too loose
Rattly = a bit too loose
Sounds much like it did before with autos = Okay! Somewhere in the middle
Squeal like a piggy = too tight
Won't even turn over = Seized tight

Did you set the lock nut to prevent it from unwinding / along with some silicone along the threads where it goes into the tensioner body to stop oil creeping out/ and also helping to stop it unwinding.

[Paultandy]

Finger tight then 1/4 of a turn tighter with a spanner. I don't no if am being paranoid or not. I will be striping it at the weekend to measure the chain slack

[Wicky]

Finger tight then 1/4 of a turn tighter with a spanner.

NOOOOO! - where did you get the idea to turn them even tighter with a spanner? Wouldn't recommend running the bike with them that tight just in case it causes any damage to the cams.

Did you set the correct timing for the effected cylinder before fiddling?

[Paultandy]

I haven't messed about with any of the timing just that I noticed a slight tapping noise after I had rode it home from work so I parked it up gave it a once over and noticed mcct on the front was only finger tight and the lock in nut was loose and had come undone it's still got the original cct on the back I didn't fit the front one I've only just got the bike I was told to tighten it up 1/4 of a turn and see if the tapping noise went away I think the tapping has gone away but I think I might be getting the squealing noise as mentioned above that's why I put the video on for any advice I'm going to strip it at the weekend and check the timing chain tension and make sure it's all ok I don't think there's anything wrong with the timing as it runs ok

[MacV2]

I haven't messed about with any of the timing just that I noticed a slight tapping noise after I had rode it home from work so I parked it up gave it a once over and noticed mcct on the front was only finger tight and the lock in nut was loose and had come undone it's still got the original cct on the back I didn't fit the front one I've only just got the bike I was told to tighten it up 1/4 of a turn and see if the tapping noise went away I think the tapping has gone away but I think I might be getting the squealing noise as mentioned above that's why I put the video on for any advice I'm going to strip it at the weekend and check the timing chain tension and make sure it's all ok I don't think there's anything wrong with the timing as it runs ok

''Try winding in the CCT 1/4 turn to see if the ticking goes away, you may have to back off the lock nut a few turns to give you room...If you go to tight it will squeal on start up so back it out...''

This is what I sugested...not finger tight then tighten 1/4 turn....Just back it out then do up finger tight as per Wicky's post...

Better still take the cam cover off & check it properly...