I would just like to make it clear, this should only be tempted by a person with mechanic competence, as getting it wrong could cost you your life or that of others
So the list of thinks that I done to get clearance at both full extremes and not have to fit any new parts.
Photos are below of some of the differences and the finished job, bar a dam good clean.
1st the brake hose. The pipe that meets brake reserve is bent to the right. This is bent straight, which gave the length so the the retaining bolt on the bottom yoke could be fitted back in. I have seen others use a cable tie to hold it in plate as the hose will not relocate. There is also a tag were the brake hose fits the master cylinder, that also had the be demmaled back to allow the hose to point further forward, as the bar is 12mm further back and the leg is in the way (well for me is was as I like more levers turned down quit a bit).
2nd, the throttle and starter button had to be turned so they did not hit the tank. The parts have locating pins, so the bars needed to be drill it the correct place to lock them in place ( no fun to do, but the bars are Ally not steel which the VTR ones are)). The pins could be ground of, but I don't wish the have the whole throttle unit turning. Non of the original holes in the bars were anywhere near anyway. The clutch side was simpler, but the switch unit still needed to be turned bottom forward so as not to hit the tank.
3rd. the bars all fitted, full lock to lock no bar to tank problems. The only problem left was the contact with the fairing, and on the right bar, pushed the fairing up about 6mm. I took the fairing of that the frame. I ovaled the 2 bolt holes on the front on the frame upwards by 3mm. I then bolted it back up will holding the lifting the frame up to rise the whole unit. I them use a scaffold tube, which I slipped over the frame part that holds the mirrors and bent then and 45 Dec (10mm up and outward). I took careful measurements to make sure it was symmetrical. Fitted the fairing back on then adjusted the 4 Ally brackets were it is joined to the frame( they were never in-line to begin with).
The only other modification that I had to do, was the bar ends. The VTR has 6m threads, the VFR 8m threads, so the bar ends had to be drilled through and the hole for the Allen bolt head taken out to fit (14mm).
Finally the road test today. The wrists are now happy. It does not feel vague when in slow corners now, so I feel that I can start to push it in corners. They are not as steep an angle, so I find it much easier to use the indicator switch now, not having to take may hand of the bar to operate. The last owner did not lean into corners, so the tyre sides by over an inch are untouched. Hopefully I will soon sort that out and use the whole tyre. At speed there is a little more wind pressure on the helmet. One can't have it all. I hope this is of a help to others. Sometimes it is not the doing of a job that is the problem, it is all the little unknowns that one has to find a way round that can be the head ache.
