Well here goes............fitting new MCCTS this week.

[Hondo]

I have realised that the other one is constantly under pressure from the auto cct. I have adjusted the manuals as per the guide here. Approx 6mm up play. Should be fine eh?

[Hondo]

Well I have put the manuals on both cylinders now. About 6mm up down play. Putting it back together over the weekend. I just hope the tension is right. That's my main worry now.

[Wicky]

Too tight and it will squeal like a piggy (not good) - too loose it will rattle (also not good but not as bad as too tight) - somewhere in the middle good when it warms up.

Don't forget to turn the engine over by hand when reassembled before starting to check for anything untoward.

[sirch345]

Right guys. I have the rear MCCT in and adjusted to what I think is 5-7mm up down play. I measured against a steel rule with MM side resting behind. With the chain pushed up it goes from 5mm (the mark thats level with the top of the chain) to the 11mm mark. So thats a play up of 6mm. But to me after putting the cam chain guide back on and tightening the MCCT locknut the chain feels slack on the cam sprockets with a bit of sideways free play. When I check the front cylinder that still has the Honda CCT the chain feels super tight with no play sideways or up. Should it be as tight as that? I know the automatic one is always putting tension on the chain, well I think it is. So should the MCCT be a bit slacker on the chain?

Guys?

Yes the manual CCT will allow the cam chain to be slightly more on the slack side compared to the cylinder with the standard automatic CCT still fitted. A manual CCT has to be set at a happy medium so-to-speak because it doesn't self adjust like the automatic one does.

Just make sure you have fully tightened the lock nut on your final check on the cam chain before refitting the cam chain guide back, not the other way round,

Chris.

[adewhitmarsh]

Good to hear you fitted the manuals ok,it's a cheap repair.Another engine saved.from the dreaded auto's.

[lloydie]

I always set them to 7mm ! Better on the loose side than tight .
I also do the rear first then turn it over by hand a few times before moving to the front .
Once the front is done I then turn it over by hand a few times then check both for correct tension once more .

[Hondo]

Good to hear you fitted the manuals ok,it's a cheap repair.Another engine saved.from the dreaded auto's.

Thanks Ade. Just putting it all back together now.

Thanks to all for your advice.

[Hondo]

Well folks, at approximately 18:30 hrs tonight, the tank will be fitted and the Storm will be started. I have my wife and two sons standing by to stop me from smashing my head with a lump hammer if it all goes to ratshit.

If it starts up and runs as normal I'll eat my TT beanie hat. But it will be worth it.
I'll let you know later............

[sirch345]

Well folks, at approximately 18:30 hrs tonight, the tank will be fitted and the Storm will be started. I have my wife and two sons standing by to stop me from smashing my head with a lump hammer if it all goes to ratshit.

If it starts up and runs as normal I'll eat my TT beanie hat. But it will be worth it.
I'll let you know later............

You shouldn't have any problems if you've followed the instructions correctly. I know it's already been said, but do remember to turn it over manually by hand before pressing that start button, just to be on the safe side.

Fingers crossed it all goes well,

Chris.

[Hondo]

Well at 18:30 hrs GMT exactly (I'm a bit OCD with things like this ) The tank was on and all connected. I used a little choke and turned the bike over with the kill switch still at off. No nasty noises.
Then, with my youngest son shouting "do it Dad" I fired the beast into life once more and she runs and sounds great. Got the temperature up to 80, still no screeching and no clatter. So far so good.

I did it. Thanks all. What a brilliant members forum.

I must say with the guide here, the job is relatively easy. I normally do my own basic servicing on my bikes but this was the biggest job I have ever attempted. (Well except for replacing a cam bearing in a Z650 33 years ago.)


Thanks go to all who advised and to Ade for the MCCT's. And very nice they are too. No leaking so far.
She's back together in one piece.
Now for a couple of beers.




old pic, but she still looks this good.

[VTRDark]

And what a lovely shiny good looking beast you have there too. Well done

[Hondo]

And what a lovely shiny good looking beast you have there too. Well done

Thanks mate. And thanks for your guide. I feel confident enough to help someone do theirs if they were local. I'm a proper mechanic now.



ps, I have two of those black plastic fairing type fasteners left over, the ones that you push in. They were two of the first things I removed when I took the fairing off but I'll be darned if I know where they go now. Searched all over the fairing for some holes? And they are not the ones from the plastic front rocker cover either.

[VTRDark]

I bet they are the bottom ones that hold the base of the fairing panels in and stop them flapping. No big deal and I don't even bother with them but seeing as you bike is in pristine condition you may want to put them back on.

[fabiostar]

your not the only nervous mcct fitter . im gona do me new girl this weekend so hoping mine goes the same as yours

on a side note: no fecking idea how im gona get at the rear one, theres a dirty great alloy ear in the road on mine

[8541Hawk]

your not the only nervous mcct fitter . im gona do me new girl this weekend so hoping mine goes the same as yours

on a side note: no fecking idea how im gona get at the rear one, theres a dirty great alloy ear in the road on mine

Remove the lower bolts from the sub-frame and loosen the uppers, then rotate the sub-frame up and out of the way and you should be good to go