F***ng honda brake bleeding !!!!!!!

[BrianC]

Why is it so difficult to bleed the front brakes!!!!!!!

I have rebuilt the front calipers with new seals etc and today was the job i dread with Hondas!!!

The bike has two direct braided lines fed from a long banjo bolt onto the master. All copper washers are in place

Bled the calipers through and through until i am blue in the face, but still no lever. Used the method of open the bleed, pull lever to bars, lock bleed nipple, then release. And again, and again, and again.......

There doesnt appear to be any air bubbles in the fluid that is being pumped out.

I have now just tied the front brake lever to the handlebars in the hope that will help. This is something that worked when i did a fireblade once.

It really should be easier than this!!!

Or am i just being thick????

[StuartWags]

did clutch and brakes... complete rebuild. It can take ages. keep pumping

[BrianC]

Going to try one of these bleedng babjo bolts on the master if i cant get it to work.

Also i read you should have a long bleed tube and the receiving jar at the level of the master cylinder when bleeding.

Just walked away at moment !!!!

[cheekykev]

Try a syringe and send the fluid up the other way, then bleed as normal with a tube in a jar with a bit of fluid in the bottom.

[VTR Phoenix]

Have you put the right backs on the right fronts and not swapped them by mistake?

[BrianC]

Thanks for the ideas guys

Kev - not quite sure where i syringe??? Up the banjo?

Phoenix. - do you mean did i get the halves of the calipers mixed up??! If so definitely not, kept everything seperate

[BrianC]

Progress!!!!


Got about half a lever now, so things are improving!!!!

Now cable tied lever to bars to see of that clears any remaining air.

Just wondering if there is some air in the master now.

[Wicky]

Get a large catheter syringe and some hose on the caliper bleed nipple/s and simply suck fluid down from the reservoir - remembering to keep level topped up. Makes it a simple 5 minute job.

[BrianC]

Is this one of the large catheter syringes like on ebay?

And does it just take one extraction of the syringe? Or do you need multiple draws on it.

Sorry to be such a buffoon!!!!!

[eamonn]

Keep the bleed bottle above the master cylinder . Try cracking open the banjo bolt momentarily whilst squeezing the lever then close immediately. Might have to repeat a few times.

[Wicky]

Is this one of the large catheter syringes like on ebay?

And does it just take one extraction of the syringe? Or do you need multiple draws on it.

Sorry to be such a buffoon!!!!!

Might take a draw or two to each side - between each pull use a ring spanner to shut off the nipple, and repeat until flowing clearly. Then repeat each side again till no bubbles. Some people push fluid up (reverse bleeding)

Couple of days ago I just did the Transalp's twin front brakes with new lines and after refurbishing each caliper - took literally five minites without any fuss. Done the Storms front & rear brakes, and clutch by this method and it's the most fool proof method I've found to date.

[fulviogsx]

Buy mityvac vacuum pump.it often happen after a rebuild.specially if you rebuild the pump and everything is cleanedthe fluid doesn t flow

[fulviogsx]

Buy from mikecrook18.it s a good ebayer

[moto1818]

Holding the lever will not clear your remaining air from the system, all you have done is move one strokes worth of fluid forward.

How I approach this is work from the top forward. Firstly I remove the banjo from the master cylinder and top up the reservoir with brake fluid. I then compress the lever and hold it. Then put your finger end over the outlet of the master cylinder and then release the brake lever, this stops the fluid that the cylinder has just pushed forward being sucked backwards into the reservoir. As you then compress the brake lever again and have positive pressure on the master cylinder outlet, remove your finger and fully compress the lever, repeat the above steps until you have a good issue of brake fluid from the master cylinder. Once this is achieved and the brake lever is released, remove your finger. From this point it should gravity bleed itself.

I then refit the banjo to the cylinder and crack the bleed nipples at the calipers and await fluid to appear. Once fluid appears I tighten the nipples and then pump the brake lever until pressure is generated in the system (I suspect this is where you are now) Once pressure is felt I hold the lever in the compressed position and crack the top banjo so that all air is expelled from that high point, be sure to tighten up the banjo before the brake lever is fully compressed. I then move on to each caliper brake nipple and repeat the above process, pump until pressure is felt, hold the lever then crack the nipple and tighten before the lever is at the bar. You will be able to tell when all air is expelled and then you should be able to pump up the lever.

I would note that if you have a caliper piston that is slightly sticky, this will give the impression that you still have air in the system. I always assemble my calipers with rubberlube on the seals to avoid this. How to check is firstly ensure that all pads are snug against the discs and secondly physically look at each pad and as you slowly pull the brake lever see if any are moving toward the disc then 'springing' back once the lever is released.

Hope it helps.

[MacV2]

Syringe...Push the fluid in from the calliper...


So if your having issues...Syringe on the calliper & remove all the fliud...do both callipers...

Then start again with fresh fluid pushing it up from the bottom. Start with the left hand calliper, fill until you have a bit in the M/C...Then fill the right line from the calliper...

You wont get a solid leaver straight away...so you may need to revert to the...open nipple, pull & hold leaver, tighten nipple...repeat until firm...Again swap from side to side...


Done a few sets like this always works for me...

When you rebuilt the callipers you did remember to put the little caliper joining seal in didn't you...?