Mid MCCT Job - Rounded Head

[VTRDark]

All looking good, I see you have sealant around the locknut and along the threaded bar As for the paper gasket it shouldn't make a difference which way around it is as long as both mating surfaces are smooth and clean from debris you should be fine.

[Cadbury64]

If you plan on doing more DIY (and in my opinion, that is the best reason to own an older bike) then do yourself a favour, and buy a torque wrench, even a really cheap one. A small investment, but will save you from destroying fasteners/thread, and give peace of mind that you have done the nut up "right".

I now have a big manly 1/2" drive (up to 250 N-m)that does the big stuff like axle nuts, a medium size 3/8" drive (20-100 N-m IIRC) for general use and I also have a small /14" drive that goes up to 25 N-m, for smaller jobs like spark plugs. If you don't have matching sockets to suit the different drives you can buy adaptors that let you use 1/2" sockets on a 3/8" drive.

[fabiostar]

well done big man on the work. i was/am in the same boat with learning about these engines and when you get it right theres no better feeling

[Brapscallion]

Thanks gents! Was out of my comfort zone by the carb trumpets, so it was all downhill from there really!

Remember to turn the engine over by hand a good few turns before pressing the start button, just to make sure all the valves clear the pistons.

Good luck,

Chris.

Thanks for the heads up! Would it be obvious that the valves weren't clearing my pistons?

Does it matter which way round the engine's cranked?

All looking good, I see you have sealant around the locknut and along the threaded bar As for the paper gasket it shouldn't make a difference which way around it is as long as both mating surfaces are smooth and clean from debris you should be fine.

Yeah, sealant in there, and surfaces were both silky smooth for the new paper gasket to sit onto.

Rear CCT.

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Front CCT.

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If you plan on doing more DIY then do yourself a favour, and buy a torque wrench, even a really cheap one. A small investment, but will save you from destroying fasteners/thread, and give peace of mind that you have done the nut up "right".

Definitely on the Christmas list mate! Know just the feeling, and don't have the muscle memory to be able guess at the feel for correct torque by hand!

Shameful to say that this happened moments after refitting the cam covers...

Sheared bolt.

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[VTRDark]

Doh....Now that looks like the IIRC 8mm bolt, that holds the petcock diaphragm bracket onto the frame on later model VTR's. You should be able to use a centre punch or or large nail and a hammer to tap the old bit of thread out of the frame anticlockwise to remove it.

Turn the engine over manually from the crankshaft anticlockwise a couple of turns. It should all be okay unless you have messed up the timing badly. You would soon know if there was a problem as it would not turn and you would feel the pressure of valve meeting piston. Don't try to force it if you feel this.....not to be confused with the compression pressure/resistance as the crank turns over the high point. This is simply a safety check before you start the engine.

[Brapscallion]

That's the one, Dark. Thankfully not a critical component!

Alright then, have some free time available this afternoon so will see how far we get in the reassembly . Cheers!

[Brapscallion]

How, in the name of Christ, are you meant to get the airbox back onto the front breather and air hoses?

[KermitLeFrog]

Easy peasy. I little bit of lube on the front hose. Then thread your hand through the front and hold it.

[Brapscallion]

Well, it took me a LONG time to get the front breather hose on, but it's there.

The bike is back together and started up fine, but I have a fuel leak :/. Petcock is dry and no leaks around it or the fuel line, but am getting a good bit of fuel coming out of the bottom of the bike. Any ideas where I have gone wrong?

[Wicky]

Is it coming from the tank overflow hose which exits nr the belly pan?

Is it a small dribble or continuous?

[Brapscallion]

Also no petrol around the carb rubbers, fuel just seems to be coming straight out of a hose at the bottom, but only when the bike is running.

Marked with tape.

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[Brapscallion]

Contunous, when bike is running, stops when bike is not running. Fair amount of fluid coming out too, not just drips.

[Wicky]

Track the hose back to its source under the tank to see if it's the breather or tank overflow hose

[MacV2]

Track the hose back to its source under the tank to see if it's the breather or tank overflow hose

The fat one of the two is the overflow. The smaller one with the white conector at the tank end is the breather.

Has the bike been standing a long time ? it could be the floats in the carbs are stuck. When the engine runs the vac on the pet rock opens it to let fule flow to the carbs, if the floats are stuck the carbs will overfill.

As said trace the hoses back find out which one the fule is coming out of is attached to...

[Brapscallion]

Cheers for the info, will trace the culprit down the rabbit hole and see where it leads.

Has the bike been standing a long time ?

Bike's only been standing a week, so not very long at all.