OK, so you say it has the pairs system, is it a late model with the digi petrol gauge ? or an import early from the states or parts of europe ?Honeybadgerted wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2017 1:45 pmNot sure, my tach doesn't work. Not sure what's wrong with it. There are no breaks in the wire between the cdi and the clusteralanfjones1411 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:43 am What revs are you idling at.I have mine idling at 1100/1200 rpm.As for the" backfiring a little bit" may be just the normal carb farts which most vtr's seem to suffer with.
I ask as it's easy to find early clocks, late ones harder to find & more expensive... However the easy way to find if the clocks are faulty is to swap with a known working set, if thw swap set work theres your fault, if the swap set dont work you have a fault somewhere else in the system...Trouble is that that fault may be killing the tacho which then means you have two faulty sets...
Early pre facelift clocks.
Later version with digi clocks.
Is this knocking noise like a thump that you feel in the air box ? If so that will be carb fart as mentioned above.
Carb sync helps a bit on that...
Also you dont need the tach to raise the tickover...just play with the adjuster & you'll hear the revs rise & or fall.
Look through the right hand side of the frame in front of the coolant res, at rear of the front cylinder. The knurled knob with the spring is the tickover adjuster. The red circle is the front vac take off. If you have a tube there as in the pic thats the pipe you need to balance/sync the carbs...If it just a small allen head bolt in there then to do the carb balance you'd have to fit the take off...Without the tube is as it is std btw...
...then set the tick over...
