Firestorm odd noise?

[sirch345]

iv used m&p on mine and they are grand..

Thanks for that Fabio

Clutch Basket Holding Tool

£30 for a Paper gasket Pattern parts are good enough. It's only paper with a rubber seal built into it around the water pump area. Use a 6pt socket on the heads of the clutch casing bolts as they round off easily. They vary in length too so have a system where you can keep the order they go back in. Don't overtighten the bolts that hold the clutch springs in place as they do snap, I've had it happen, and use threadlock. If your not going to use any gasket sealant and use a slither of grease as Al suggests make sure the mating surfaces are smooth and clean. Oh and plug the holes at the bottom under the clutch basket with some rag as you don't want to drop anything inside the engine into the sump.

It's all pretty straight forward really. The hardest part is that centre bolt but the right tool for the job makes easy work of it.

Cheers Carl with the link for the clutch basket holding tool That's a better price than I had expected

The odd thing is a head gasket is not a lot more I appreciate the tips you've given me, although I have fitted stainless hex headed bolts. I'll cut out a nice piece of cardboard from a used cereal box, draw out a rough shape of the clutch cover, then make holes in it for each bolt so they go back where they came out. It had slipped my mind they are different lengths, but no doubt I would have noticed when removing them.
I'm fairly familiar with stripping clutches, but I have not had a Firestorm one apart yet, so it's all a bit new. A good tip on making sure the old gasket doesn't end up where you don't want it when scrapping it of for people who've not done that before.
I see the torque value for the bolts that hold the clutch springs in place is 12Nm, I watch how I go with them, I appreciate the heads-up,

Thanks for your reply Carl

Chris.

[MacV2]

They vary in length too so have a system where you can keep the order they go back in.

I'll cut out a nice piece of cardboard from a used cereal box, draw out a rough shape of the clutch cover, then make holes in it for each bolt so they go back where they came out.

Chris.

When you get the new gasket it will come in a film wraped card back packet...Remove the film, quick pencil outline of the gasket, mark the holes, mark the orientation...Place the gasket on a clean flat area away from the work area...Pucnch out the holes in the card for the bolts...Jobs a good un & you have saved having to explain to the Mrs why the cornflakes box is missing & there is a bag of cornflakes in the cuboard...

[sirch345]

They vary in length too so have a system where you can keep the order they go back in.

I'll cut out a nice piece of cardboard from a used cereal box, draw out a rough shape of the clutch cover, then make holes in it for each bolt so they go back where they came out.

Chris.

When you get the new gasket it will come in a film wraped card back packet...Remove the film, quick pencil outline of the gasket, mark the holes, mark the orientation...Place the gasket on a clean flat area away from the work area...Pucnch out the holes in the card for the bolts...Jobs a good un & you have saved having to explain to the Mrs why the cornflakes box is missing & there is a bag of cornflakes in the cuboard...

Nice one Mac I knew those hole punches I bought from Aldi or Lidl would come in handy sometime, I just have to remember where I put them
Missus should be happy too

Chris.

[VTRDark]

I see the torque value for the bolts that hold the clutch springs in place is 12Nm

Yeh...well like so many bolts on these bikes trying to get the specific torque can often end in it snapping especially if the bolt is weak from age or stretched through use. I just go by feel with a lot of bolts these days and use threadlock. I've had one of those clutch basket bolts snap, a cam cap bolt and cam cover bolt snap on me. I'm sure there's a couple of others too but I can't remember which ones.

Something else I forgot to mention. Depending on how deep your going, as a precaution you may want to cable tie (zip tie) the primary drive gear to the sub plate so you don't loose the tension on the little spring in there behind the advancer. It's an absolute bugger to get back in that little spring.

[sirch345]

I see the torque value for the bolts that hold the clutch springs in place is 12Nm

Yeh...well like so many bolts on these bikes trying to get the specific torque can often end in it snapping especially if the bolt is weak from age or stretched through use. I just go by feel with a lot of bolts these days and use threadlock. I've had one of those clutch basket bolts snap, a cam cap bolt and cam cover bolt snap on me. I'm sure there's a couple of others too but I can't remember which ones.

Something else I forgot to mention. Depending on how deep your going, as a precaution you may want to cable tie (zip tie) the primary drive gear to the sub plate so you don't loose the tension on the little spring in there behind the advancer. It's an absolute bugger to get back in that little spring.

Thanks Carl for your concern on the bolt shearing, and the quieting gears advice

Chris.

[tony.mon]

The quietening gears aren't that bad, there are three springs which you can hold in place with a dab or grease, and in order to tension it poke a screwdriver through the two holes provided and tension as you fit the larger gear onto it's spline.

[sirch345]

The quietening gears aren't that bad, there are three springs which you can hold in place with a dab or grease, and in order to tension it poke a screwdriver through the two holes provided and tension as you fit the larger gear onto it's spline.

Thanks Tony for the information

Chris.

[sirch345]

UPDATE

I have now stripped the clutch down. I have found no tale tell signs or anything wrong that I can tell so far.

Can anyone see from the photo's something I could have missed











Chris.

[fabiostar]

that all looks fine . nothing jumping out at least.

[VTRDark]

The mystery continues At least you can rule this out. Now where's that woodpecker...is there a nest inside your cans.

[tony.mon]

Can you feel any movement in the main clutch shaft?
There shouldn't be any.

[sirch345]

that all looks fine . nothing jumping out at least.

Cheers Rob for taking a look it's always good to have another pair of eyes taking a look just in case I missed something.
The clutch basket rivets as you suggested were fine.

The mystery continues At least you can rule this out. Now where's that woodpecker...is there a nest inside your cans.

Woody Woodpecker is still there so far Carl no nest I'm sure
Like you say at least I can rule that out now, also it's reassuring knowing the clutch is not about to fall apart on me.

Can you feel any movement in the main clutch shaft?
There shouldn't be any.

I did think there was a very slight play in the main shaft, and when I say slight I mean very slight. Then again it could have been slight movement in the bearing on the other end of the main shaft. A job to tell for sure with the bike on the side stand, not like having the engine bolted steady where it can't move so easily. I removed the oil pump sprocket, sleeve and drive chain for a closer inspection. I couldn't get the inner or out race race to spin on their own. The bearing feels nice and smooth when I rotated the shaft. Personally I don't think the problem is here, everything as far as I can tell seems in good condition.

Thanks for your replies guy's

Chris.

[sirch345]

I'm delighted to say Woody Woodpecker has left the building

Chris.

[tony.mon]

Excellent.
Did you find out what it was?

[VTRDark]

Nested somewhere else then. Well that is good news but I would like to know what it was.