Ignition Coils - which is which?

[Loo Kahs]

I bought a pair of used ignition coils many months ago and now I've come to think which is the front or rear one. Both contain a four digit code that is different, as well as a different mounting rack.

I thought I'd go on eBay to check listings for other ignition coils and compare the type of mount/code to see which is which, but it seems that even on eBay it varies.

No 3830


No 3874


Normally, I'd presume that once I go into the bike, whichever mount corresponds to the replacement coil - that is the right one. But, as I said, on eBay I see for example No 3830 with both types of mount.

3830 in this listing is shown as rear - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-vtr-10 ... Swg8taCuaH
meanwhile in this listing, it's front - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR100 ... SwtGlZC0J7

Can anyone shed some light on this? ... I do presume that whichever way it's mounted on the bike now, is the correct way, but I'm still puzzled by the mixing up of them on eBay?

Tah

[MacV2]

According to this...

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon ... re-harness

The coils are the same just the mounts are different. No. 7 is the front No.15 is the rear.

However at some stage the part number changed, so in theory your pair may be different ages hence the different part numbers. Or that it's just a different batch number from the supplier.

[Wicky]

Bookmark this for reference

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/moto-h ... 11510.html

See > Wire Harness

According to the fiche coils front and back are the same part no. 30501-MBB-E30

[Loo Kahs]

Huh, being the same part, just a different batch no. would explain the inconsistency.

Thank you! and that's some intense website. Didn't realize that there were people making new parts upon order.

[Wicky]

"Thank you! and that's some intense website. Didn't realize that there were people making new parts upon order."

If a new part isn't here in the UK - there's a big Honda warehouse in Netherlands - if its not there then it has to come from Japan. Also bikes older than 15 years aren't supported so the Storm only has a couple more years of official spares support. Though firms like David Silvers in Suffolk and Mac & Franks VTR Emporium in Kent stockpile older Honda bits & bobs ready for the apocalypse...

[Loo Kahs]

"Thank you! and that's some intense website. Didn't realize that there were people making new parts upon order."

If a new part isn't here in the UK - there's a big Honda warehouse in Netherlands - if its not there then it has to come from Japan. Also bikes older than 15 years aren't supported so the Storm only has a couple more years of official spares support. Though firms like David Silvers in Suffolk and Mac & Franks VTR Emporium in Kent stockpile older Honda bits & bobs ready for the apocalypse...

Perhaps a retarded question, but... what happens when the official support and stockpile ends? If it were a collectible bike/car in the future - is there any other means of obtaining part replacements, or does everything then need to be custom made?

Curious to see whether the ignition coils will solve the problem I've been having. Haven't ridden the bike in half a year now.

[VTRDark]

It become's like a classic vehicle then and parts will become more and more sparce over time. The only option left will be used spares which will only go up in value over time. Just think, there will be a time when OM parts become as rare as Moriwaki. If you intend on keeping the bike for a number of years then my advice would be to start stockpiling now. If you do decide to sell later then the parts can only go up in value so it's a win win.

[MacV2]

Perhaps a retarded question, but... what happens when the official support and stockpile ends? If it were a collectible bike/car in the future - is there any other means of obtaining part replacements, or does everything then need to be custom made?

Curious to see whether the ignition coils will solve the problem I've been having. Haven't ridden the bike in half a year now.

Brakers yards.

What is the problem you've been having ?

[MacV2]

It become's like a classic vehicle then and parts will become more and more sparce over time. The only option left will be used spares which will only go up in value over time. Just think, there will be a time when OM parts become as rare as Moriwaki. If you intend on keeping the bike for a number of years then my advice would be to start stockpiling now. If you do decide to sell later then the parts can only go up in value so it's a win win.

WooHoo I'm quids in then...

[Loo Kahs]

Stockpile in a London flat? Liking the sound of that!

MacV2 - not to re-write, this is a description of the problem I had: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=41386&p=450972#p450972

Sometimes it ran like a charm, and other times the described problem occured.

The reason I've not touched it in many months now, is that the last two attempts resulted in it showing those symptoms after being 5 minutes on the road ... but worse... where it's not even on/off intermittently, but almost as the whole time it's running on one cylinder.

Just now after being sat for some months, I reconnected the battery and turned it on to see if it's working (so that I could drive it to my brother's to change the ignitions coils) and for the half a minute it idled (it was semi indoors in a bicycle store, didn't want to piss neighbours off), it sounded perfectly fine.

[MacV2]

It's on again this year.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=41844

[VTRDark]

I hear you with the flat. I only have a small yard and shed and struggle with that. OK I know which bike this is now and you have been chasing down this misfire issue for while now havent you. Lets hope the coils and leads solve the problem. You have changed the plugs as a first port of call too I hope. Plugs do fail and I have had my bike running on one cylinder because of a failed plug before. Also make sure that the HT lead is pushed down securly onto the plug as it's easy to not push them down and seat them fully, epsecially the front. You should hear and feel it click into place. Other than that the next thing down the line is the Converter unit / ICM but it's rare for these to fail. Also make sure the battery terminals are secure and have not vibrated loose which can give a misfire / engine cutting in and out type symtom.

If you havent got a multimeter and 12v test light to go through things and dignose where the probem is then it's best to start with the simple things first. It's always possible that there could be a probem in the wiring loom itself in-between components but you really need to diagnose to chase down those kind of issues. Electrical gremlins can be a real headache to chase down at times.

WooHoo I'm quids in then...

NO....that's Franks retirement fund

[MacV2]

Last Grainstorm a members bike was running very poorly. One of the fairly new irridium plugs was found to have a closed gap. He swares blind that he hadn't dropped it...But the gap was closed up & caused poor running.

Generaly the combined experience of the wise heads attending can sort things out...

Like after working on another bike, can't remember what it was being done but the bike refused to fire up after much head scratching & stroking of chins...Someone else asked..'Did you turn the fuel tap off ?' Que embarrassed fumbling to lift the tank back up...problem solved...

Oh how we laughed...

[Loo Kahs]

On the way to my brother's (he got tools, I don't) the bike started playing up as per description after two minutes.

I have now replaced the ignition coils (I'll take pictures of the old ones later). I've been on a 10 minute ride without any problems. I'll go out just now to see if anything happens.

If it's ok for a whole week, then I shall declare happiness officially.

[Loo Kahs]

Right... so despite having done nearly 100 miles without any problems since the change. Half way through my commute today, it happened again!

Cruising at 30mph I felt a loss of power that lasted a second and then got better. Short while later it happened again and persisted for a while.

Throttle wouldn't be as responsive and it would need somewhat higher revs to maintain the same speed. However, if I turned the throttle a fair bit, it would almost feel like it 'punched' itself through the problem with the acceleration.

Later it got worse where it became unresponsive and to maintain 30mph I had to go be in 2nd gear/4k rev or thereabouts (as opposed to 1st and 3-4k). Any attempt to turn the throttle would result in turtle like acceleration.

Once I got home, I parked up and it was still not ok. I quickly shot a video with sound to show you. After couple of minutes after the first video (where it was not working ok), it gradually got better and idle speed increased and throttle regained its responsiveness - then I shot a 2nd video for comparison.