Starter motor problems.

[jimeowen]

Yeh it's about 2 to 1 conversion so I did the whole job for less than 50 pounds.

You can't get the parts in Australia so you have to order from the US which is expensive when you add the freight cost. I think I could get one delivered for about 100 pounds which is 200 dollars.

I don't think locking them together is going to cause any issues in fact now it will never be a problem slipping again :>)

How does your VTR go about starting in the cold English mornings. Mine struggles sometimes even over here in our Winter ?

Also, any simple mods you could suggest ???

Kevin.

[VTR Phoenix]

That is a bit steep, how come no spare parts where you are? Do people just bin them?

As has been mentioned by tony mon The torque release design is there to prevent gear teeth being stripped. Bits of gear tooth floating around in an engine is never good news, and could wreck the engine.

Easy mods would be 3-6mm shim on rear shock, get 1 or 2 3mm washers with a 10mm hole, cut from centre to edge so you are removing 10mm section. Loosen top mount nut for shock (under seat at rear of tank) get a mate to lift the tail up and slide the washers in. Then retighten top shock nut.

Manual Cam Chain Tensioners (guide on here on how to swop and set up)

RR upgrade (mosfet)

Adjust the TPS (guide on here on how to do this)

Then there is always the forks to sort if your up to it or fit a 929 front end.

[Wicky]

How does your VTR go about starting in the cold English mornings. Mine struggles sometimes even over here in our Winter ?

Make sure battery and charging system is in tip-top condition - check under the rubber hood on the starter for corrosion on the bolt and nut as this will effect efficient starting with increased resistatnce. (add a dab of vaseline under the hood to moisture at bay) Check that battery terminals are clean and tight and all connections likewise in the charging system circuit. Also look at upgrading to a Mosfet R/R for maximum reliability.

When very cold I usually turn it over for a few seconds with no choke, leave for minute or so then start it up with full choke - no throttle till it catches and fires up.

[jimeowen]

Does the rear suspension adjustment make a big difference, like what extent ?

I like the idea of the mosfet, is there a procedure here anywhere ?
Is that the small regulator that sits inside the fairing. Mine burnt out on a very hot day and the shop replaced it for me (at great cost) with an updated one with a finned heatsink.

[VTR Phoenix]

Yes sits on the right under the tail fairing, search workshop for rr thread but you said already been changed for finned. If it's 2 plugs coming off it then that's the better one.

The rear shock spacer helps it steer in the corners, makes it sharper. Also makes it a little taller and it leans more on the side stand, less chance of it being blown over in high wind. Pros everywhere.

[jimeowen]

I'm very short (like you poms) because I am actually English.

I bought the lowering thingy from the US and lowered the bike quite substantially. I had to shorten the stand so that it leaned properly too.

So making the rear shockers sit higher might not suit my situation right ?

[VTRDark]

Thread Hijack. Can I suggest you start a new thread Jimeowen. If that is the dogbone lowering then you wont want the spacer.

[Joonas]

Hello fellow stormriders! Im pretty sure i have this problem, cose my bike makes a lot of noice

Would u agree? Im new here so be gentle

[tony.mon]

No, it's ok.
If you have manual cam chain tensioners fitted the try slackening them one at a time by one flat of the adjuster nut, see if it sounds quieter. If not, put back to where it was.

[Joonas]

No i have orginal new ones. Did take them back a notch, but makes no differens. Cant do it while motor running thoug..

[agentpineapple]

it doesn't sound like the starter to me fella, good luck finding the noise....

[sirch345]

No, it's ok.

It sounds normal to me as well. I bet the high pitch whirling noise doesn't sounds as loud to your ear, only that loud in the video,

Chris.

[VTRDark]

No i have orginal new ones. Did take them back a notch, but makes no differens. Cant do it while motor running thoug..

You can't adjust OEM auto tensioners. I don't advice removing the bolt and playing with the inside there

I'm not sure I can hear anything in that video or not. There may have been a slight high pitch tappety sound when you moved to the right of the bike down down low near the coolant bottle but I can't quite place it. It really hard to pinpoint sounds when somone moves around a bike like that. It's better to stay in the one spot where you can hear it.

[Joonas]

I tryed to pinpoint the noice with stetoscope, i think its the front chain. It is a bit louder on the video, but not much. Its so loud that people think i have a supercharger there and what comes to the cct's i only took them back a notch, barely moved them. So no fear of loosing timeing. So is the chain that makes the know vtr noice?

[tony.mon]

Yes, it's the chain.
Due to the length of the chain run there's a lot of variance between tight and slack on the tensioned chain side, the tensioner has to move quite a lot in normal running.
If you have new std cct's the spring is still strong and it will apply full tension, and that causes the noise.