From 107 to 128

[lloydie]

Good luck and hope your using one that knows there sh1t regarding the vtr as they’re a fuker to set up .

[fabiostar]

that must be a weight of your shoulders hearing it run

[freeridenick]

that must be a weight of your shoulders hearing it run

Once I'd turned it over on the starter I was feeling fine about it but I had to take a deep breath before pushing the button. I can't quite believe how fast it picks up revs.

[sirch345]

Another day and...... IT'S A RUNNER!

There are a few little jobs to do to get it track ready but nothing major. So first thing tomorrow I'll be on the phone booked a Dyno setup.

Brilliant news, well done Nick
You must be a happy man to get to this stage

Chris.

[freeridenick]

Another day and...... IT'S A RUNNER!

There are a few little jobs to do to get it track ready but nothing major. So first thing tomorrow I'll be on the phone booked a Dyno setup.

Brilliant news, well done Nick
You must be a happy man to get to this stage

Chris.

Oh yes. I'll be happier when I've finally ride it.

[tony.mon]

Well done that man.
Get it run in and 1k on it and then Dyno it, it'll loosen up and the ring to bore seal will be ok.

[VTRDark]

Woohoo finally Get some pics up then I hope you are well stocked up on cheap oil for those regular oil changes while everything settles in I agree with Tony don't get it on a dyno straight away, at least let those oil changes get done first and when your on your final change and have put some miles on think about it then.

[StormyRob]

Nice one nick. Glad you have found light at the end of the tunnel

[AMCQ46]

result......... good work Nick

[freeridenick]

Thanks all. It's a great feeling. I'll get some pictures up when I've painted it, it looks worse than in my avatar at the moment as it's covered in repairs.

It's going to have to go on the Dyno as it is, although I'll run it a bit more before hand. Since it's not road legal I don't want to take it on track without knowing the fueling is OK. It's not lean, I'm sure of that, so I'd be happy running it on the road but I'm not happy with ragging it around the track until I know there are no big holes anywhere.

You were right Tony - it runs a lot hotter than standard and hotter than I expected. Granted it was stationery on a warm day but I'm sure I've never noticed the frame getting hot before. I'm thinking about the larger rads I've seen on eBay.

[KermitLeFrog]

Yoshi stage 1 cams
Ported and gas flowed heads (new seals and re-cut valve seats)
JE 11.5:1 high compression pistons
CBR 600 fuel pump
RC51 oil cooler
Airbox mods (all the usual ones)
Lightened flywheel.

Other general bike mods
HRC 1/6th throttle tube (no return cable)
CBR 600 Calipers and MC
PFM cast iron discs
Braced swingarm
Braced frame - maybe
Sexy lowers from Stephan if I can afford them
I might actually get around to painting it too.

To save me the bother of reading back to see what exactly has been completed can you update the mods?

It's been an interesting trip!

[freeridenick]

To save me the bother of reading back to see what exactly has been completed can you update the mods?

It's been an interesting trip!

You can say that again.

From the top down:
CBR 600 fuel pump with dry break and sexy billet tap - thanks Fabio
Gutted airbox with two short stack and MWR filter - Tony's tried a failed with this so it's probably the first think to be changed
Jetted carbs with DJ needles and rubbers matched to the heads
By-passed carb heating
Ported and flowed heads (vented to pod filters) - thanks Roger
Stg1 cams with +1mm intake valves and +0.5mm exhaust valves
JE pistons
Lightened flywheel - thanks Fabio, again
SP oil cooler - thanks Lloydie
1/6th throttle tube
CBR calipers and MC - thanks Al
PFM discs
Braced swingarm (not fitted yet) - thanks Cheekykev, and Lloydie

[KermitLeFrog]

Super, thanks.

Where does the dry break go in relation to the tap, tank and pump?

MWR filter?

Why the carb heater bypass?

Pistons. Same bore? Higher CR?

Thanks for the info,
Cheers
Ian

ps. Itching to see the dyno results....

[freeridenick]

Super, thanks.

Where does the dry break go in relation to the tap, tank and pump?

MWR filter?

Why the carb heater bypass?

Pistons. Same bore? Higher CR?

Thanks for the info,
Cheers
Ian

ps. Itching to see the dyno results....

The dry break is between the tank outlet and the pump. I could really do with another between the pump and the carbs as I have a feeling the pump will empty when I disconnect the carbs.

The MWR filter is a prototype I got from Tony. It's an alloy grid with oil filter foam. If you look them up you'll see they also have a solid plate spaced above the foam. I've left this off and used the rest of the filter with the airbox lid. I think Tony tried it without the lid but with the plate. Not sure. I'm sure he'll comment. I've also used some round foam rubber in the airbox grooves as I have a suspicion the flat plate won't sealproperly.

I bypassed the heating on the carbs just to make them easier to remove and perhaps it'll mean the charge is a bit cooler going in. I won't be using it in cold weather so icing won't be a problem.

The pistons are std bore and 11.5:1 compression ratio.

[KermitLeFrog]

Super, thanks for the info.