jchesshyre wrote: ↑Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:32 am
Thanks E. Marquez.
I just need to check something about how this is wired up. Does one run a hefty cable from the relay ground terminals straight to the battery negative terminal? What happens to the original ground cable from the headlight switchgear?
The relay ground is only for triggering the relay, it can be a very small gauge wire and grounded close to the relay location.
The Headlight socket does need a good ground though. There is no need to run it back to the battery however. If the battery is properly grounded to the frame and motor (I run a second grounds strap on all the bikes I build) the frame at the front of the bike is as good a ground as anyplace else.. for the VTR I use a ring terminal on the upper cowl stay bolt at the frame. Standard things like clean the bolt head, frame, stay well, coat with some dielectric silicon, or BoeShield T-9
Power to the relay (and through that to the headlight) needs to be a fused run from the battery. 14ga is all that is needed for 12VDC at 11 amps (that would be a 130 watt bulb run constantly) on a 8 foot run and no more than 2% voltage drop is more than sufficient for a fused run in sheathing. Put the fuse close to the ring terminal at the battery. protect that run of wire in sheathing, heat shrink tube or the like, and tie it down along the way ....a lot...then, go back and put some more ties on it.
If you want to be ready to power some add on light on say the hi beam relay later, then add those future watts to the calculation and up the power wire to relay gauge size.
Here is a good wire calculator
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/# just remember GIGO Garbage in, Garbage out ..if you don't set it up right , you wont get accurate recommendations.