Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

[VTRsquid]

Thanks guys.

[Cappy]

Hi. Recently purchased a 99 firestorm, looking to replace the cam chain tentioners. I've gone over the guide, is it just me or does the play in the cam chain when at full tentioners seem really excessive (5-7mm). I recently did the cam chain in my wr450 and you almost can't move the chain at all up and down with the tentioner in.

Is this just the nature of this engine? It seems quite alarming lol

[tony.mon]

You will only set 5-7mm of play on manual tensioners, no need to set automatic ones.

[VTRDark]

IIRC there's 5 mm play in the auto tensioners when in place and the extra 2 is a safety margin to allow for the heat expansion and non auto tensioning. Not much use trying to compare one engine to another as every engine has it's own specifications. This has been the specification for many years and numerous bikes have used this with no issues. Krieger recommend the same.

[cmg55]

Greetings,
I'm about to install Kriegers myself.
Did you pull both valve covers and the carbs or just the back valve cover??
I've read two different sets of directions and can't decide which to do...
Thanks,
Colin
UPDATE- After re-reading Carls directions and his replies to some of the chaps suggesting the quicker back cam cover method, I've decided the more thorough procedure as outlined by Carl is the proper way to go for me.
Thanking you in advance Carl! ( My CCTs just arrived today, so all my nervous anticipation will now be put to the test!)

[0gri]

Hi VTRDark,i followed your excellent guide to change my tensioners and it made it a complete doddle,especially loads of photos.Thankyou sir,your a fekkin diamond

[Fabiodriven]

I'm sure this is going to seem like a silly question, but I don't understand why the valve covers and carburetors have to come off in order to replace the tensioners. I'm not saying it's wrong, I'm sure I'm just not understanding. Why not just put each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke when changing out each tensioner? Why does the rest of the engine have to come apart?

[Wicky]

They don't - unless you want to access the front pot to measure to measure directly the cam chain tension when setting the MCCT. The more thorough way came about from folk who were uncertain of what finger tight / backing out 1/4 –1/8 turn and wanted something more objective - hence the need to remove carbs and front cam cover rather than just removing the rear cam cover and turning crank round a set amount to get the timing right for the front.

This is the method I've used: https://cl.ly/7826d63c5505/download/Fir ... change.pdf

[E.Marquez]

I'm sure this is going to seem like a silly question, but I don't understand why the valve covers and carburetors have to come off in order to replace the tensioners. I'm not saying it's wrong, I'm sure I'm just not understanding. Why not just put each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke when changing out each tensioner? Why does the rest of the engine have to come apart?

Its a good question...

Many have tried the short cuts, and many of those paid the price with anything from bent valves to just extra work in re timing the cams, re adjusting the overly tight / loose MCCT.

The install process suggested (which is hardly taking apart the "rest of the engine") is a sure way to get them installed with no mistakes.
With the cam covers off you can zip tie the chains to the sprockets, you can visually see the cam chain slack/ tension, you can know if the cam chain jumped a few teeth when the valve springs on the other cylinder were able to push the cam lobes and rotate the crank and cams

[AMCQ46]

There are ways to do the front one without taking the cam cover and carbs off, but you will always need to take the rear one off to establish that you are on the compression tdc.

It should be documented in this thread somewhere.

But if you have the tank and airbox off already it Is a good opportunity to check the valve clearances

[Reilym]

Hey guys. I’m new to Superhawks and motorcycles in general so bear with me lol. I decided to replace my automatic cct’s and after some very in depth research and reading the tutorial on how to do it at least half a dozen times I got up the courage to start the endeavor. I took everything off and removed both valve covers and began timing the engine. I turned the crank to rear tdc to what I thought I was in the correct timing. Lobes pointed in the correct directions and the sprockets appeared to be in the correct setting as well. So I tied the sprockets down so my chain wouldn’t skip any teeth and removed the tensioner. After replacing and adjusting the manual tensioner I decided to move to the front cylinder. In the process of trying to find front top dead center my chain began skipping teeth in the rear cylinder and before I could do anything I hear a clunk and everything seized up. I pray that I didn’t bend any valves but as for right now from what it seems is my rear cylinder is seized and I don’t know what to do or how to fix it. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. P.S: in the process of removing one of the sprockets to try and free up the crank I may or may not have dropped a bolt into the engine casing would dropping the oil pan be the best plan of action of retrieving the bolt?

[sirch345]

Did the possible bolt drop inside the engine before or after setting the tension for the manual CCT If the bolt dropped before setting the CCT tension it sounds like you got a false reading of the up and down adjustment of the cam chain. That would explain how the cam chain became slack enough for it to jump the cam sprockets.
It sounds like either the bolt has jammed the cam chain inside the engine from turning, or the cam chain being slack when you were turning the engine over has jammed at the sprocket on the end of the crank,

Chris.

[Reilym]

It was after the engine seized. That was the last straw lol. I’m asking some people that work on bikes for a living and they’re saying that I could be 180 out. I forgot to mention that the chain was jumping after every revolution while trying to time the front cylinder. It would skip teeth. It would just jump up and back down

[Reilym]

It wouldn’t skip teeth*

[Reilym]

I’ve got another question. What direction do the cam sprockets need to be in if I removed them? I was stupid enough and didn’t take pictures before removal