Acct's

[Ace VenTRa]

yaaaawwwwwwwwwnnnnnnn.

I'll try to develop better content asap...my apologies.

[Pete.L]

yaaaawwwwwwwwwnnnnnnn.

I'll try to develop better content asap...my apologies.

Carry On Ace. He doesn't have to read them

[Pezed]

Seconded wholeheartedly!

Carry on Ace, this is properly researched great stuff, can't understand why anybody can be negative about it when all they have to do is not read it.

[Kev L]

You keep going mate, I’m sure the majority find it interesting. We all post things that will appeal to some and not others but that’s the purpose of this format, surely.

[sirch345]

Preload is a cinch:


Install the spring
Re-install circlip
wind wind in the adjuster
Insert locking key
Install into bike
Release key and verify that everything is as it should be

AV

That is exactly what a lot of owners were doing when they purchased replacement CCT springs from David Greenwood some years ago.

The spring needs to be pre-tensioned before you start to replace all the associated parts of a CCT. If you do what you have suggested above you will not have enough tension on the cam chain once the CCT is fitted in the engine,

Chris.

[Ace VenTRa]

There really is no way to "pre" tension. Based on the design it's either tensioned or not and the spring only goes in one way. I'm not sure why they were having issues but it's fairly straightforward. And, pre-tensioning is no big deal if that's what you need to do in order to take up slack, after all, it is just a slack adjuster and there is no way to change the amount of force the spring can deliver after a point. Having taken apart and reassembled 6 oem tensioners that are in good working order, and one cbr tensioner in good working order I can say for sure that there is no mystery to the assembly process.

AV

[Pezed]

This is where things are going to get a bit tricky!
Sirch has been a member forever and is a respected authority on cct's having designed, I believe, the insert mod that prevents excessive movement in the event of spring failure, a now tried and tested solution.
Ace is a fairly new member, but it seems to me that he's got the bit between his teeth on this matter and has consulted with recognised facilities that enable him to put forward a strong argument.
When my front pot started making horrible noises, I wished that I could implement the insert solution, but I was desperate to have the bike rideable again toot sweet, and bodged in a manual one just to tide me over- it's still working fine.
As someone that has yet to properly resolve this issue on their bike, I look forward to the ongoing discussion.
Knowledge is power!

[Commando77]

Preload is correct as when I took one of mine apart I felt the spring twang off. When replaced with untensioned spring there was a noticeable difference when wound up compared to an untouched one. One full turn seemed to do it. It's in the bike now and seems fine with a stopper in each. Just for giggles I took the manuals out to see if the Honda guide noise changed.... Just the same.

[Ace VenTRa]

And there you have it, take up the slack as needed and all is well. I have noticed that not all of the springs are the same length and that would account for the difference in installation.

Also...and this is important...the acct from the factory is also an mcct in a manner of speaking. If you remove the 8mm access bolt with the adjuster on the bike, you can access the slotted end of the adjuster. If you turn that gently and release, it should return all by its lonesome. If it does not return to its home position then two things have occurred:

1.) You just discovered that the spring is broken
2.) You took up slack

A better fail safe would be a longer access bolt that reaches all the way to the back of the slack adjuster. The adjuster could never back out and a smaller 6mm od and perhaps 5mm in length could be inserted in between the new longer access bolt and the slack adjuster. In this manner no removal of the acct is necessary. Only a brief inspection, a depth check, the insertion of a small cheap spring, and the insertion of a longer M6 bolt with sealing washer. Possibly...

AV

[Ace VenTRa]

In fact, that's a damned good idea... a secondary adjuster spring in between the back of the adjuster and the access bolt....I'll start on that idea right away.

AV

[MacV2]

I knew that name rang a bell...

http://viz.co.uk/2005/02/24/8-ace/

[sirch345]

Preload is correct as when I took one of mine apart I felt the spring twang off. When replaced with untensioned spring there was a noticeable difference when wound up compared to an untouched one. One full turn seemed to do it. It's in the bike now and seems fine with a stopper in each. Just for giggles I took the manuals out to see if the Honda guide noise changed.... Just the same.

You're on the right track

Chris.

[sirch345]

A better fail safe would be a longer access bolt that reaches all the way to the back of the slack adjuster. The adjuster could never back out and a smaller 6mm od and perhaps 5mm in length could be inserted in between the new longer access bolt and the slack adjuster. In this manner no removal of the acct is necessary. Only a brief inspection, a depth check, the insertion of a small cheap spring, and the insertion of a longer M6 bolt with sealing washer. Possibly...

AV

I think I understand you are saying there.

That wouldn't work as the back of the "slack adjuster" as you call it (I would refer that part to the "worm/screw") doesn't move in or out when a spring fails, it only turns around in a circular motion (clockwise) which allows the CCT plunger to retract.

Not a bad idea if it did though,

Chris.

[Ace VenTRa]

It would work if...the end of the spring sat in the groove just as the original spring does. Ya know... a spring inside of a spring inside of...