Cam Chain Tensioner Question

[Cousid]

Hello all,

While it's quiet, I am looking to change my automatic CCT's to manual ones,
Perhaps a silly question but has anyone tried to change these on a 2000 - 2001 VTR without removing all the bits, Petrol tank, Fairing, air filter etc.
it looks to me that both front and rear could be removed and new ones fitted and adjusted after disconnecting a front hose to make some room.

Polite replies please, I am just trying to do these jobs myself,

Regards Dave.

[grumpyfrog]

Nope will be the simples answer as, I'm not the most technical, but you need to make sure lobes etc are facing the right way etc...
Honestly, I managed it by just following the instructions on here.
Set aside an afternoon and take your time. Some on here can do it in no time at all.

[Wicky]

It will need the tank and airbox off to gain access to the CCTs and to ensure the timing is set correctly - you can leave fairing on.

Follow the instructions in the Workshop knowledgebase, get the right tools and odds & sods i.e sockets and JIS screwdrivers, silicone / hylomar blue, give yourself an afternoon. Take photos for reference as you dismantle esp the tank hoses and where they connnect to.

[sirch345]

Have a read of this, "VTRDarks" excellent guide:- viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Chris.

[Pentode]

I would recommend taking a deep breath and removing all the bits...

It doesn't take too long and the above guide is brilliant.

If you've not done much on your bike, it's great opportunity to get to know it better and make working on it easier in the future.

All the best

[nigelrb]

Have a read of this, "VTRDarks" excellent guide:- viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Chris.

What a brilliant and comprehensive guide that is. Well done to 'VTR Dark' for taking the time to compile and for making it available to all.

[Knobby69]

I have taken mine apart to fit the "Stopper" modded standard CCT's. It went well as per the well written procedure available on here(bar getting slightly confused re the pipework connected to the tank). I now have a slight rattle at tickover so I am wondering if a spring has in fact broken. I have Manual CCT's here to fit and having written down and gone through all the stages am going to try a quicker way!

I will remove the front spark plug and find TDC, then putting my boroscope(available from £7.50) inside will see if the valves are open. If cannot be seen try again after turning 360. If at that stage I still cannot see a valve open, my method fails, but if one can be seen open I am away as I know what position my engine is at re the whole 720 degree cycle. I will put both CCT's in(finger tight when in the correct position) and my baffles!!!! and then when warm adjust noisy......quiet......noisy and then tighten until only just quiet. The standard adjustment when cold is only a guess as to what is best when hot anyway, as no one is sensibly able to measure free play when really hot!!!

If anyone has fault in the above, I would love to hear more. Especially as I seem to remember reading somewhere that one cylinder gets tighter than the other. Beyond that, when I get around to it I will report back.

[Wicky]

Taking the rear cam cover off is free (and relatively simple once the tank and airbox are both off) ;-) and you'll need to adjust the manual CCTs to 'fingertight' and wind it back out ¼—1/8 of a turn (or directly measure the cam chain deflection)

[tony.mon]

I tend to agree. Although your method will work, Knobby, assuming that you can see valves open, it's the work of seconds to pull off the rear cam cover.
And you can check valve clearances while you're there.