TheBozBoz wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:27 pm
Little update on the bike today. Thought I'd do the tps adjustment by bending the lower bracket a bit, managed to get 429ohm so decided that was as close to the argued magic number of 430!
Personally I believe the 430 number is a bit of an error. Yes it was shown on the OP post to give a slight boost to top end power but if you really look at what is going on, it might not be the best option.
I say this as the TPS is one of the two things the ECU "looks" at to set the advance curve (RPM is the other factor)
This means that setting the TPS to 430 will actually retard the timing through out the rev range. While this might be good for top end, I believe you loose out everywhere else. Unless you are running above 7K with a stock ECU I don't see a benefit.
Now if you go the other way and set the TPS to say 550-600 range, now you are advancing the timing by tricking the ECU into thinking you have a larger throttle opening. This should move the advance curve up a step in the map and give more advance.
Since the advancers are no longer available (and were only for the '97-'00 model years as the ECU changes with the dash change) this is what I would be looking into if I was running a stock ECU.
TheBozBoz wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:27 pmAlso managed to fit my new old stock velocity stacks, they are BIG! I know I'll need to play around with jetting. I wonder if dynos are open during lockdown?!?
What I was hoping to do was remove the PAIR system as I bought the blanking kit on ebay. Turns out my bike simply doesn't have it. The weird thing is it still pops on deaccleration and sometimes upwards shifting. I'm wondering now where the air is drawing in!?!
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Could be you are running a touch lean.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.