Exhaust fitting trouble
Exhaust fitting trouble
Am I doing something wrong? I took the system off the bike to clean it up and can I hell get it back on! I can get the pipes on and one silencer. The other silencer is a mile off. I'm spending hours and getting nowhere. Is there a secret method to getting them back together?
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
Put it all together loose. Dont put the first bit on & tighten it up. Put the front header on, nuts on studs just enough to hold it roughly in place, same with the rear down pipe, slot it into the header but dont do the nuts up or tighten the clamp. offer up a can at a time. Once it's all in place go round tightning it up bit by bit tweaking the angles as you go.Wilky811 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 5:20 pm Am I doing something wrong? I took the system off the bike to clean it up and can I hell get it back on! I can get the pipes on and one silencer. The other silencer is a mile off. I'm spending hours and getting nowhere. Is there a secret method to getting them back together?
If it dont line up loosen and wiggle around & tighten.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
Thanks MacV. I've spent so long on it now I'm going to start all over again and do as you advise. It came off so I'm guessing it must go on 
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
Are you reusing the doughnut gaskets again from the header to the mufflers?
Also are you reusing the gasket at the head/ exhaust manifold?
I ask this because I'll be removing my complete exhaust next time I'm home and debating if I should replace the gaskets and exhaust clamps. Plus I'll be wrapping most of the exhaust while it's off.
Thanks.
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
misnblu wrote: ↑Fri Nov 20, 2020 12:30 amAre you reusing the doughnut gaskets again from the header to the mufflers?
Also are you reusing the gasket at the head/ exhaust manifold?
I ask this because I'll be removing my complete exhaust next time I'm home and debating if I should replace the gaskets and exhaust clamps. Plus I'll be wrapping most of the exhaust while it's off.
Thanks.
Don't be cheap butt & try reusing the gaskets. You will only end up having to take it all off when the the old gaskets start to blow. as for the clamps you might find you'll have to cut them off so new will be required anyway.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
I'm using new gaskets.
Re: Exhaust fitting trouble

The ole wallet looking anorexic at the moment.

Thanks guys.

Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
Yes best not scrimp on the exhaust gaskets

Remember to remove the old crush copper header/manifold seal - it gets flattened & sooted up so its camouflaged in the head, and will need picking out
The graphite link/header pipe seal can be fun - sometimes you can get away with a splurge of hi-temp silcone to help ensure a seal if the old one gets torn up.
Here in the UK with winter salt the clamps are best replaced with Mikalor W4 fully stainless. (With the cheaper W2 version the threaded bolt will corrode and disintigrate after a couple of years if the bike is used all year round).

Remember to remove the old crush copper header/manifold seal - it gets flattened & sooted up so its camouflaged in the head, and will need picking out
The graphite link/header pipe seal can be fun - sometimes you can get away with a splurge of hi-temp silcone to help ensure a seal if the old one gets torn up.
Here in the UK with winter salt the clamps are best replaced with Mikalor W4 fully stainless. (With the cheaper W2 version the threaded bolt will corrode and disintigrate after a couple of years if the bike is used all year round).
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
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Re: Exhaust fitting trouble
Good advice and thank you.Wicky wrote: ↑Fri Nov 20, 2020 12:27 pm Yes best not scrimp on the exhaust gaskets
Remember to remove the old crush copper header/manifold seal - it gets flattened & sooted up so its camouflaged in the head, and will need picking out
The graphite link/header pipe seal can be fun - sometimes you can get away with a splurge of hi-temp silcone to help ensure a seal if the old one gets torn up.
Here in the UK with winter salt the clamps are best replaced with Mikalor W4 fully stainless. (With the cheaper W2 version the threaded bolt will corrode and disintigrate after a couple of years if the bike is used all year round).


Where I live there's no salt anywhere but in the Gulf of Mexico a handful of miles away.
Plus the bike stays in a storage away from the weather while I'm gone and will rarely be ridden in the rain unless a summer time shower happens to pass by.
Should be fun when I do this but it has to be done.

