Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

[Shibby46]

I don't know what causes carb farts,but it sounds like a thump under the fuel tank.Nearly all Vtr's suffer from it.Mine used to do it before it warmed up properly.

This is all making me feel better, I was starting to panic about my mccts, though I followed the instructions to a t and the engine sounds great. The bike does cut out on warm up sometimes so the carb farts seems like the issue. Thanks all

[Shibby46]

Just wanna check if anyone else has thoughts on my clicking problem above?

Thanks all

[Wicky]

Difficult to say what the click is - have you a recording of it?

If the MCCT is too tight it'll squeal - and if too loose it'll rattle even after warmed up - so likely nothing untoward. Important thing it that the lock nut is done up, and you've put something on the threads to help stop them unwinding / stop oil dribbles - Just put a mark on the bolts and keep an eye on them while you ride for the first few miles.

[Shibby46]

Difficult to say what the click is - have you a recording of it?

If the MCCT is too tight it'll squeal - and if too loose it'll rattle even after warmed up - so likely nothing untoward. Important thing it that the lock nut is done up, and you've put something on the threads to help stop them unwinding / stop oil dribbles - Just put a mark on the bolts and keep an eye on them while you ride for the first few miles.

Thank you, it doesn’t sound like either of those noices which is great, carb farts it must be

[tony.mon]

The easy way to diagnose carb coughs is that you can feel it through the tank. If it's a cct problem you can't.

[Brnojohn]

I need to ask a potentially dumb question re setting the chain tension on my manual CCTs (am doing rear cylinder just now) and sorry if this has been posted but I have searched the knowledgebase and cannot find exactly what I need!

From the guide by VTRDark:
You now want to tighten the threaded part of the tensioner down until you have between 5 - 7mm of up and down play from the outside edge of the cam chain between the two cam sprockets. That's a total of 5 - 7mm from one side of the chain. It's a similar process to tightening the slack in your drive chain. I personally prefer to be on the slack side as it's going to put less stress and strain on engine components than if it's overtightened.


What is meant by the outside edge of the cam chain between the two sprockets? does anyone have a photo of where exactly to take the measurement
plus do I need to remove the upper guide to set the tension

thanks

john

[MacV2]

I need to ask a potentially dumb question re setting the chain tension on my manual CCTs (am doing rear cylinder just now) and sorry if this has been posted but I have searched the knowledgebase and cannot find exactly what I need!

From the guide by VTRDark:
You now want to tighten the threaded part of the tensioner down until you have between 5 - 7mm of up and down play from the outside edge of the cam chain between the two cam sprockets. That's a total of 5 - 7mm from one side of the chain. It's a similar process to tightening the slack in your drive chain. I personally prefer to be on the slack side as it's going to put less stress and strain on engine components than if it's overtightened.


What is meant by the outside edge of the cam chain between the two sprockets? does anyone have a photo of where exactly to take the measurement
plus do I need to remove the upper guide to set the tension . Yes The guide has to come off. You use a steel rule to measure the defection of the chain, put it behind the chain, press down with one finger then push up. The total should be 6-7 mm... Adjust as necessary then lock off. Too tight it will squeal on starting, too loose it will rattle...

thanks

john

[Brnojohn]

Thanks, really appreciate the help