Carb set up

[ramer33]

[8541Hawk]

Yes those lines are connected to a T that runs to the front left side of the bike, i will just pull them off. I just put that cap on the engine breather to keep anything from getting in it while it is apart, they are still hooked up to the air box when I put it back together. Yes I checked the diaphragms for holes. Thanks for all the ideas.

Bet removing the "T" will fix the issue. I mentioned the engine breathers because if you ran the engine that way you would blow out the seals.

Let us know how things go

[ramer33]

Well I got it back together and took off on it. Let's just say I was gone for longer than I planned and came back with a big smile!!! Thanks or the input. Also I need a new back tire now. It was getting close to ready anyhow but almost showing threads now

[8541Hawk]

Glad we could track down the problem

[8541Hawk]

As a final update to this thread (surprised myself that I had already cleared up the, what seemed to be ,the confusing bits) but did leave out the TPS settings I now use on a stock bike and why.

The manual calls for 500 Ohms and works well. A long while back it was posted, with dyno charts, the the bike made more top end HP with a setting for 430Ohms. IMHO this is because the stock ECU has a bit too much advance in the upper RPM range. This is why, or at least one of the reasons, the HRC ECU dials back the timing on the top end.

While this does work, the reality is most riders don't use the top end but spend most of their time in the mid-range.
Nothing wrong with this though IMHO requires a little different tuning.

What I do now is set the TPS around 570 Ohms. The reason for this is to get to a different part of the ignition map. Running a lower than spec TPS setting tricks the ECU into thinking the throttle isn't opened as far, which make it read a lower setting on the map. Running a higher than spec setting will trick the ECU into thinking the throttle is opened farther than it really is, this will make it read higher on the map, which will advance the timing.

So you end up with the benefits of an ignition advancer (which are close to impossible to find anymore) without the draw back of adding extra advance to the top end.

[sirch345]

As a final update to this thread (surprised myself that I had already cleared up the, what seemed to be ,the confusing bits) but did leave out the TPS settings I now use on a stock bike and why.

The manual calls for 500 Ohms and works well. A long while back it was posted, with dyno charts, the the bike made more top end HP with a setting for 430Ohms. IMHO this is because the stock ECU has a bit too much advance in the upper RPM range. This is why, or at least one of the reasons, the HRC ECU dials back the timing on the top end.

While this does work, the reality is most riders don't use the top end but spend most of their time in the mid-range.
Nothing wrong with this though IMHO requires a little different tuning.

What I do now is set the TPS around 570 Ohms. The reason for this is to get to a different part of the ignition map. Running a lower than spec TPS setting tricks the ECU into thinking the throttle isn't opened as far, which make it read a lower setting on the map. Running a higher than spec setting will trick the ECU into thinking the throttle is opened farther than it really is, this will make it read higher on the map, which will advance the timing.

So you end up with the benefits of an ignition advancer (which are close to impossible to find anymore) without the draw back of adding extra advance to the top end.

This is interesting.

Thanks for the Update Mike,

Chris.