Forks

[DJWALKER]

Hi anyone feel forks juddering under low speed
Braking obviously using front brake.
Is this a common issue ?
Thanks and enjoy the sun .

[8541Hawk]

More information please.......so confused

[MacV2]

It's either loose/worn headrace bearings or worn fork bushes...

First port of call, check to see if you have any movement in the headrace... Get the font end off the ground, from in front of the bike, grasp the fork legs & pull towards you. There shouldn't be any movement. If there is then that'll be the headraces... Remove the top yoke & the top lock nut, has a thin locking washer that you have to bend the tab's down. Top one should be easy to remove. Then you could try to tighten them up by tightening the lower one...However... It's worth removing the bottom nut to reveal the actual bearings... The bottom one either drift it loose or C-spanner if you have one that fits.

If the headrace bearings are ball races then they are probably in there from the factory. Best to re grease anyway & the lower ones, If your going that far you may as well replace with Needle roller bearings.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon ... ering-stem

That i'll be a fork out job.

If its not the headraces then it might be worn fork bushes...Thats a fork strip...

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon ... front-fork

[Pete.L]

Or wheel bearings.
Probably best to check the whole front end.
If it moves check it, if it doesn’t move check it anyway

[Cadbury64]

A shudder under brakes is more likely to be a disc that is not running true. The discs are easily tweaked by knocking them e.g. during a tyre swap. In my experience it is not the steel disc that bends, but the soft alloy carrier that supports them, and this can be very carefully tweaked back true with a bit of care and a pry bar. You need a dial indicator gauge set-up off the fork legs to find the high and low spots and figure out where to pry. Don't pry on the discs themselves! YMMV and all that.

[VTR_FIN]

A shudder under brakes is more likely to be a disc that is not running true. The discs are easily tweaked by knocking them e.g. during a tyre swap. In my experience it is not the steel disc that bends, but the soft alloy carrier that supports them, and this can be very carefully tweaked back true with a bit of care and a pry bar. You need a dial indicator gauge set-up off the fork legs to find the high and low spots and figure out where to pry. Don't pry on the discs themselves! YMMV and all that.

This is exactly what I did to fix my front brake shudder. I measured 0.20mm of axial runout on the RH front disk, I corrected it by inserting a round steel bar to floater rivet/pin holes and prying them until runout was 0.03mm. Shudder gone, didn't have to buy new discs.

[Duffy1964]

I have just read on another forum that someone else had brake judder, it seems the cause was a worn wheel bearing, so worth checking


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[Cptorange]

There is very little tolerance in the brake 'buttons', so they easily warp and give the pulsing through the lever. Put light machine/penetrating oil on the buttons and stick them in the oven on your missus's best baking tray for an hour/ gas mark one. This relaxes the metal, and sometimes unwarps the disc. Worked on my old race bike before I went to race discs.

Remember to let cool before you burn your hands, and obviously leg it from the wife when shes spots whats gone on.

[alanfjones1411]

There is very little tolerance in the brake 'buttons', so they easily warp and give the pulsing through the lever. Put light machine/penetrating oil on the buttons and stick them in the oven on your missus's best baking tray for an hour/ gas mark one. This relaxes the metal, and sometimes unwarps the disc. Worked on my old race bike before I went to race discs.

Remember to let cool before you burn your hands, and obviously leg it from the wife when shes spots whats gone on.

Or put a bolt through buttons and tighten a nut up on the other side and use an electric drill to spin them.