How to get fuel tanks off?

[bingo808]

Hi
Now in the process of removing the fuel tank to get to the air cleaner, and to also move the choke cable back to its original position.

Q now is - how do I get to that 17mm nut? I can under the 10mm fine, just after some worldly advice to remove the 2nd nut.

[lloydie]

That 17mm nut is the shock top mount - leave it be .

Undo the ten mill nut and from the other side undo ten mill bolt then slide it out .

[MacV2]

Yep that black plate stays where it is...

The tank pivots on a bolt that goes through that bracket & the tank.

Start at the front...

At the front of the tank 2x 8mm bolts & washers cover rubber gromets which should have top hat spacers fitted from underneath.

Lift the front & remove the top hats, they have a tendancy to drop out so be aware...

Prop the tank up & undo all the pipes... see below for putting them back...

Now lower the tank back down & find the black wire for the sender unit, it will be on the right hand side, follow it back the bunch in the clear shroud in front of the battery seperate from the block.

Now the rear pivot bolt, 10mm nut off, push the bolt through & remove.

Lift the tank off & place away from work area...welll away from tools being dropped & size 9 hoofs...

Do what you need to do & refit in reverse as above... Tank on, pivot bolt in, reconect sender wire, Lift & prop, attach pipes, lower tank fit front bolts...

Job done simples...

When you put it all back on make sure the vac pipe is fitted correctly !

[bingo808]

Many thanks. I went to remove the tank today and undid the top two bolts, plus I managed to get the 10mm nut off the pivot bolt and have the tank just sitting on the frame now.

BUT when I went to disconnect the hoses, pipe F2 (using photos above) was pissing out fuel - not just a dribble, but flowing fuel. I quickly reconnected the hose.

Is the vacuum switch buggered? Can they be rebuilt?

[AMCQ46]

sure sign the vacuum diaphragm is damaged. yes you can get rebuild kits from david silvers and other places

you can still turn the fuel off using the 8mm square on the tap, so switch the tap to OFF and then remove

[bingo808]

Many thanks for your reply.

One more question. Does my model have any sort of inline fuel filter? My bike has carbies and was wondering if there was any sort of fuel filtering.

If not, could you put a small inline fuel filter in like this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254104866019

or cheaper ones like this - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294194625351

[MacV2]

Filter is in the tank. When you take the petcock off the filter is above it...Chances are it will have swollen up & difficult to get out without damage...

New they are around £40 tho...best left alone...


SCREEN SET, FUEL STRAINER
16952-MBB-003


no.3

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon ... /fuel-tank

[bingo808]

Okay, so no need for external filter. That's good.

I have bought a Hendler fuel tap rebuild kit off ebay. It being shipped from the UK (GB) to me here in Aus.

When I remove the fuel tap to fix it, will I need to remove that internal strainer from the tank as well?

EDIT: Have ordered strainer from my local Honda dealer. AUD$48.70

Also noticed a missing mat that lies between the bottom of the tank and the top of the airbox. Is this mat an absolute necessity?

[MacV2]

Okay, so no need for external filter. That's good.

I have bought a Hendler fuel tap rebuild kit off ebay. It being shipped from the UK (GB) to me here in Aus.

When I remove the fuel tap to fix it, will I need to remove that internal strainer from the tank as well?

EDIT: Have ordered strainer from my local Honda dealer. AUD$48.70

Also noticed a missing mat that lies between the bottom of the tank and the top of the airbox. Is this mat an absolute necessity?

You can do the diaphragm without taking the tap off... Just four screws & remove the back plate, whatch the spring tho !

Personaly I would drain the tank first, syphon it out...

The tap has to come off to fit the new fillter the old one will be destroyed by yanking it out... But if you push it in the use a grab to fish it out through the cap hole...However it's a bit easier if you take the sender unit out that way you can shine a torch in one hole whilst looking through the other... I know sounds a bit mad but I did two like this recently...

[8541Hawk]

Also noticed a missing mat that lies between the bottom of the tank and the top of the airbox. Is this mat an absolute necessity?

No, it is just for noise damping.

[bingo808]

Well I connected the tank fuel lines. The fuel hoses will be put correctly into place once I get the quick connectors to put in-between the lines.

So I cranked it over, and it runs but rough. Do I have the fuel tap in the correct ON position? See photo below.



I did accidentally remove the top of the rear carby to get to the choke cable. It was a bitch to put back together as the diaphragm for the carby slide would "roll up" on the edges. So I used a bit of gasket goo to hold the rubber edges down while i put the cover and spring back on.

Talking to a local mechanic, he said that the gasket goo I used could be blocking a port somewhere, which is why the rear cylinder isn't firing properly. Or that there is a vacuum leak somewhere, and the diaphragm doesn't lift the slide/needle up - so no fuel no fire.

So any tips on how to hold down the carby diaphragm down around the edges in order to put the cover back on?

[tony.mon]

I've used a smear of silicon in the groove to hold the diaphragm seal edge in place, as long as you use a small amount and not half a tube you're ok.
The tap should be turned fully on or fully off, one way opens, the other closes.

[fabiostar]

Well I connected the tank fuel lines. The fuel hoses will be put correctly into place once I get the quick connectors to put in-between the lines.

So I cranked it over, and it runs but rough. Do I have the fuel tap in the correct ON position? See photo below.



I did accidentally remove the top of the rear carby to get to the choke cable. It was a bitch to put back together as the diaphragm for the carby slide would "roll up" on the edges. So I used a bit of gasket goo to hold the rubber edges down while i put the cover and spring back on.

Talking to a local mechanic, he said that the gasket goo I used could be blocking a port somewhere, which is why the rear cylinder isn't firing properly. Or that there is a vacuum leak somewhere, and the diaphragm doesn't lift the slide/needle up - so no fuel no fire.

So any tips on how to hold down the carby diaphragm down around the edges in order to put the cover back on?

the fuel tap as you look at it in that picture, turn the 8mm square as far as it goes to the left(anti clockwise) thats it turned on

[bingo808]

I've used a smear of silicon in the groove to hold the diaphragm seal edge in place, as long as you use a small amount and not half a tube you're ok.
The tap should be turned fully on or fully off, one way opens, the other closes.

Thanks for the silicone tip. Have applied sparingly and seems to work. Time will tell when I connect fuel and fire it up!

[bingo808]

I received the fuel line quick connectors from ebay. See pic below.



I will fit them tomorrow and fire up the bike again.