Rev 3

[tony.mon]

I like that cooler, and the braided lines work well.

[sirch345]

It's coming together now

I agree, good job with the oil cooler and braided lines

I also prefer how you've kept the new oil cooler in a similar position to the original. I have never been keen on having the cooler mounted low down right in-line with all and sundry that is thrown up by the front wheel/tyre,

Chris.

[mik_str]

Looking GREAT Mike!!!!!

[8541Hawk]

Well got a few more things done....almost time to push the button.....

Busy airbox:



a few more bits added



and where I finished up today

[sirch345]

Looking good Mike
I can imagine you are excited and may be a little nervous as well to be near 'push the button' time, I hope all is well,

Chris.

[8541Hawk]

Looking good Mike
I can imagine you are excited and may be a little nervous as well to be near 'push the button' time, I hope all is well,

Chris.

Well I have already cranked her over and built oil pressure.....so at least it won't explode while cranking.....

[sirch345]

Looking good Mike
I can imagine you are excited and may be a little nervous as well to be near 'push the button' time, I hope all is well,

Chris.

Well I have already cranked her over and built oil pressure.....so at least it won't explode while cranking.....

That's a good sign

Chris.

[AMCQ46]

rebuild is looking good Mike, glad that you are recovering well too

[grumpyfrog]

Ffs, I can't check my tyre pressure with a splinter in my finger never mind what black magic your up to.
Can't wait on your reports once she's all dialed in.
Freckin amazing work.

[8541Hawk]

Ffs, I can't check my tyre pressure with a splinter in my finger never mind what black magic your up to.
Can't wait on your reports once she's all dialed in.
Freckin amazing work.

lol.....now if I could only fix a computer....guess we all have our strengths and weaknesses.
I'm on a borrowed lap top right now until I can get mine into the shop. So no pics right now but I do have a video of the first fire up.
So yes she runs and no leaks. Now it's time to mount the fairing and go for the break-in run

[sirch345]

Ffs, I can't check my tyre pressure with a splinter in my finger never mind what black magic your up to.
Can't wait on your reports once she's all dialed in.
Freckin amazing work.

lol.....now if I could only fix a computer....guess we all have our strengths and weaknesses.
I'm on a borrowed lap top right now until I can get mine into the shop. So no pics right now but I do have a video of the first fire up.
So yes she runs and no leaks. Now it's time to mount the fairing and go for the break-in run

That's a result, excellent news Mike
I look forward to seeing (and hearing) the video when your computer is fixed

Chris.

[IanB]

Mike,

I just went through the whole thread, beautiful work, well done!

A couple of pages back, you mentioned that you "installen new steering head bearings". I guess you installed tapered rollers, yes? I looked at the manual, Honda recommend tightening the adjustment nut to 18 ft lbs. They then go on to detail a test to check the preload, by measuring resistance to turning the steering head - they say it should take 2.2 to 3.5 pounds of pull to start the triple clamp rotating. This sounds like an awful lot to me! Doesn't this result in slow steering and a reluctance to turn?

What did you torque the adjustment nut to, and did you do the preload resistance test?

I ask, as I have some nice new tapered roller bearings ready to go in...

Ian

[AMCQ46]

ian,

dont use the honda torque spec for taper bearings, that is only to be used for the std cup & cone type bearings. if you did tapers up to that load you would have some very strange steering behaiviour as they would be over loaded.

for tapers, you need to make sure the inner and outer races are fully seated (the noise will change if you are putting them on with a hammer (and a suitable drift so you are not impacting the race surface).

then set the castle nut adjuster so you just start to have interference when turning the bars, and there is no feeling of slack when you grip the bottom of the forks and pull fore & aft.

test ride and if there is a slight clunk when braking add a very small extra few degrees rotation on the adjusters till it goes..... also note that when you torque the steering stems top nut up, this will also add preload, so you need to check the steering rotation when all assembled with the top yoke fitted,


check this link. viewtopic.php?p=124933#p124933

[IanB]

Thanks Mike,

That was exactly my thinking. I've installed industrial tapered roller bearings many times, what you describe is very close to how I've been doing it. I'm planning to machine up a couple of discs to nicely fit the end faces of the bearings, get a length of M24 threaded rod, tighten the whole lot up, and then give each end a few sharp whacks with a copper mallet while under tension.

I read online about someone "assembling everything, and then really tightening the steering head nut" to seat things. Ineffective (you just exoand the outer races), and probably wreck the bearing to boot.

A more sensible suggestion I saw was to then readjust the bearings after 1,000 miles or so - I can see the logic in that.

Cheers,

Ian

[IanB]

Obviously, installation with the threaded rod & copper hammer is done on the outer races only, forgot to mention that in case anyone else is following this!

Ian