Rogered forks identification
Rogered forks identification
Hi all,
I'm just replacing the bushes, seals and oil in my forks.
I bought the forks from a guy who claimed he sent them to Roger Ditchfield for his gold service upgrade.
Is there any way to verify this? As I'd need to use the 5w oil if that's the case.
The springs don't appear to have any markings on and the plunger has a pointed end (no step, unlike standard ends).
Any help to identify them would be great!
I'm just replacing the bushes, seals and oil in my forks.
I bought the forks from a guy who claimed he sent them to Roger Ditchfield for his gold service upgrade.
Is there any way to verify this? As I'd need to use the 5w oil if that's the case.
The springs don't appear to have any markings on and the plunger has a pointed end (no step, unlike standard ends).
Any help to identify them would be great!
Jamie 

Re: Rogered forks identification
the damping taper was one of rogers mods, but that looks a bit crude
also there should be a small 1mm drill hole in the damping tube near the bottom (near where your finger is on 1st picture
springs would have no markings but look linear which is correct
also there should be a small 1mm drill hole in the damping tube near the bottom (near where your finger is on 1st picture
springs would have no markings but look linear which is correct
AMcQ
Re: Rogered forks identification
Thanks Al,AMCQ46 wrote:the damping taper was one of rogers mods, but that looks a bit crude
also there should be a small 1mm drill hole in the damping tube near the bottom (near where your finger is on 1st picture
springs would have no markings but look linear which is correct
Are you saying they are correct, in line with Rogers usual replacement items? Or standard?
I found a tiny hole! Also the inner valves look kinda shiny.


Jamie 

- freeridenick
- Posts: 1660
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2014 1:30 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
Re: Rogered forks identification
That looks right. There are other mods that are not in the public domain so the post on here states. Damper cartridge would be the obvious area for modifications.
I'm not sure what he meant by 'gold' service. As I recall Roger offers two levels; road and occasional track day, and race. The latter includes Gold Seal valves I think, which should be obvious.
I'm not sure what he meant by 'gold' service. As I recall Roger offers two levels; road and occasional track day, and race. The latter includes Gold Seal valves I think, which should be obvious.
Last edited by freeridenick on Fri Aug 27, 2021 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- freeridenick
- Posts: 1660
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2014 1:30 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
Re: Rogered forks identification
Cheers Nick,
They felt much improved over the original stock forks, and although I have no reason to doubt the dude I bought them from, I didn't want to just take his word for it.
The old oil is drained, seals and bushes are now replaced and now I'm just refreshing the paint on the lowers. So all being good, I'll pick up some 5w oil when I pick up my new front tyre on Tues
Just chain, sprockets, light service and an MOT to go.
They felt much improved over the original stock forks, and although I have no reason to doubt the dude I bought them from, I didn't want to just take his word for it.
The old oil is drained, seals and bushes are now replaced and now I'm just refreshing the paint on the lowers. So all being good, I'll pick up some 5w oil when I pick up my new front tyre on Tues

Just chain, sprockets, light service and an MOT to go.
Jamie 

-
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:55 pm
Re: Rogered forks identification
These are definitely forks that I have upgraded. However, without seeing the compression valve I cannot say whether they are modified OEM or RaceTec Gold Seal valves. The fact that the seller mentioned the word "gold" it is likely that they are. I only fitted Gold seal valves to forks that were to be raced or dedicated track day usage. It was not necessary to fit them for Street or occasional Track day usage. As you say if they are Gold seal valves then you need SAE 5wt weight oil. If you look at the compression valves the OEM are black and the Gold Seal are Gold I hope this helps
Re: Rogered forks identification
Thank you Roger, that's kind of you to explain.Roger Ditchfield wrote:These are definitely forks that I have upgraded. However, without seeing the compression valve I cannot say whether they are modified OEM or RaceTec Gold Seal valves. The fact that the seller mentioned the word "gold" it is likely that they are. I only fitted Gold seal valves to forks that were to be raced or dedicated track day usage. It was not necessary to fit them for Street or occasional Track day usage. As you say if they are Gold seal valves then you need SAE 5wt weight oil. If you look at the compression valves the OEM are black and the Gold Seal are Gold I hope this helps
I do have a receipt for the work which states "Gold seal valves" - but just thought I should visually verify that while I have the forks in bits.
Would the compression valve be No.13 at the foot of the damper rod in the crude diagram below?
Can I just pull the valve off and have a look at the colour?

Jamie 

Re: Rogered forks identification
Part 12 in the diagram is the damper cartridge, the valves are located inside this. You may be able to see part of the compression valve through the ports near the base, otherwise you can pop them out for a look. If you push the threaded base of the cartridge in a bit you will expose a circlip, pop that out then you can push the compression valve out the bottom using the damper rod and some gentle tapping from the top. There's an o-ring seal so there will be a litle resistance. When you refit the compression valve do the reverse, pop the circlip back in and check it is seated well, then tap the compression valve back down into place.
2017 MT-10SP, 2019 Vespa Primavera 150
Re: Rogered forks identification
Thanks Cadbury, much appreciated!Cadbury64 wrote:Part 12 in the diagram is the damper cartridge, the valves are located inside this. You may be able to see part of the compression valve through the ports near the base, otherwise you can pop them out for a look. If you push the threaded base of the cartridge in a bit you will expose a circlip, pop that out then you can push the compression valve out the bottom using the damper rod and some gentle tapping from the top. There's an o-ring seal so there will be a litle resistance. When you refit the compression valve do the reverse, pop the circlip back in and check it is seated well, then tap the compression valve back down into place.
Can't wait to get it all bolted up and ready for a spin

Jamie 
