alumiweld

[northmanuk]

Has anyone tried this stuff (alumiweld i think that is name)just bought some to and strengthen bolt holes when they are re-drill and tapped for the exhaust stud on my front cylinder
i thought if holes are not so good i could strengthen them with the low temp alloy brazing rods. I watched dell boys garage on u tube he had some good results as long as top surface was not smoothed down.
I will not be polishing around exhaust and will clean it thoroughly as per instruction before use . im not doing the drilling this time,lol.
i was hoping if we had to drill to one side of the whole with the snapped bit in it the first hole could be filled up to strengthen second hole
The pressure on the flange from the exhaust should be fairly low and no side force only upward force needed to hold exhaust up
The second hole could be straightened when re-drilled to take 8mm stud or bolt:?
if re-tapping fails(i also thought of heli-coiling hole ) back to the drawing board

im starting to like the old gal the more i get to know her or is it the beer

[MK_WF]

Filling a faulty threat with "brazing" of any kind is a risky job.
Usually that location is hard to access and contaminated by oil residues.
That's the reason why professionals only start welding/brazing when there's something broken off from the case and you absolutely can't avoid it.

If the hole and sealing surface is still there, a Heli Coil or similar is the better solution!
And if you're stuck in the middle of the Siberian Tundra or the Sahara, drilling a M6 to tap in a M8 is still better than a failed brazing.

[cheekykev]

For Aluminium, Kipp thread inserts are far better than helicoils.
As mentioned above brazing is not a good idea, even when welding
Aluminium it needs to be very clean, and free from any contamination, or you just won't get a good result.

[tony.mon]

Just drill oversize and tap.
You can always open up the flange holes, or buy one of Mac's stainless ones.

[northmanuk]

thats the plan exhaust off then tap and if there are any faults alum weld outside its not brazing as such its more like glue in a rod kinda of thing im not in charge of the drilling and tapping Shaun's going to do it for me its not a job i can do with my hands he has already managed to get a large chunk of drill bit out top man probably wont need anything else the low temp rods just a tool in the box and i think i have some inserts

[tony.mon]

Suggest you stop trying to avoid taking the head off. Get the head on a drill press and the job is a simple one.

[northmanuk]

i am dependent on the good nature of someone else, if i could take head of i have two sitting on my spares shelf. we are trying to do an on job repair
that allows us to leave engine as is . It runs excellent no strange noises i wrecked the studs trying to drill them out with my shot hands ,two fingers in active on left hand, 1 finger inactive on right, (due to motorcycle crash on a Z1000 years ago)

[northmanuk]

alumweld is crap

[rollingthunderx2]

Ive used Lumiweld to repair a smashed clutch cover.
It isnt really "low temp"
I had to have the case on a camp stove and a Mapp torch on the top.
As soon as its up to temp it all goes liquid.
I had to seal the bottom..front outer..with Das modelling clay to hold the pooled braze. I eventually made a good job of it and it is now reinforced.
The chances of getting the parent metal hot enough or stopping the braze running off is near to zero.
It would work with the head off..but then you could have it Tog welded and drilled.
It does however work if properly set up.

[tony.mon]

I also suggest you take the head off. All it costs you is the cost of a head gasket.