Sump removal (Oil Pan)

[mjvw]

Removed lower faring and securing rails unfortunalty one of the front bolts (sump bolt ) must of been tightend by a Thor and after lots of penetrating fluid and heat the head departed company with bolt shaft.
So it looks like i will have to remove the sump to get my stud extractor on the bolt shaft is it possible to remove and refit the sump with the engine in frame?
Any possible issues? thanks in advance.

[tony.mon]

Yes, you can, remove the exhaust system first. Hopefully that'll come off with no more snapped studs!

If you remove the fuel tank the bike lays on its side on a mattress or similar to make it easier to reach, if you don't have a height adjustable bench.

[mjvw]

Yes, you can, remove the exhaust system first. Hopefully that'll come off with no more snapped studs!

If you remove the fuel tank the bike lays on its side on a mattress or similar to make it easier to reach, if you don't have a height adjustable bench.

Thanks @tony.mon Bike on side is the only option need a new matress for the bed, so old one will come in handy No gasket listed Hondabond has been mentioned and do you think it would be good pratice to replace the seals I can see on the oil pan page in the service manual?

Hopefully exhaust should come off ok renewed stud/nuts a couple of months ago fingers crossed.

[tony.mon]

A light smear of silicon sealant is all that's needed for the sump to crankcase joint. Any brand of silicon gasket sealant does the job.

Replacing the seals would be preferable, but as the two mating surfaces will be in the same positions relative to each other, and they will separate easily due to sitting in oil, not really necessary.
Don't put sealant on the seals!

[IanB]

If I understand correctly, only the head snapped off - once the pan is off, you'll see a short section of bolt (probably without threads) sticking out of the crankcase.

What's your plan of attack? Just using a stud remover might result in the bolt snapping where the threads start, leaving you in deeper trouble.

One trick that works for me is to MIG or TIG weld an oversized nut onto the broken bolt and then let the heat soak into the bolt & crankcase. This will very often slacken the grip the crankcase has on the bolt (aluminium expands more than steel). Getting a ring spanner on the nut will let you wiggle it back & forth, which also helps.

Hopefully the bolt then comes out. Once out, run a tap into the hole to full depth to get old sealant, corrosion out.

Ian

[MacV2]

If all else fails I have a spare if you need it...

[mjvw]

Great advice.... going to have a go with stud extractor with sum on drill small hole increase and run in a extractor, if this fails sump pan off and use stud extractor gripper on the whats left of bolt.
Fingers crossed

[sirch345]

Great advice.... going to have a go with stud extractor with sum on drill small hole increase and run in a extractor, if this fails sump pan off and use stud extractor gripper on the whats left of bolt.
Fingers crossed

I wish you good luck

Chris.

[mjvw]

Could just leave it....but that would really bug me and would not be able to refitt the lower fairing but i do like the look without the lower. Will give it a go when the salt starts getting chucked around.

[sirch345]

Could just leave it....but that would really bug me and would not be able to refitt the lower fairing but i do like the look without the lower. Will give it a go when the salt starts getting chucked around.

Yes that's a good time to take a look,

Chris.

[mjvw]

Had to sacrifice the oil pan to get the bolt out, Dremeling the lug away to expose the shaft, little devil was still refusing to budge with only 5mm or so of meat at the top, unable to move left right to break corrosion as sump location dowels prevented that, only option was tap sump down, but this still did not work.
I was concerned this may snap bolt off in crankcase so out with the Dremel and a lugectomy ensued, once sump removed the bolt came out easy all the corrosion was shaft to location lug.

Secondhand Sump and new oil seals purchased noticed a difference in part number of the sump 2002-part number 11210-MBB-D40 earlier sumps different part number. So purchased a 2004 oil pan with that part number and same internal number as my sump.

[AMCQ46]

glad you got the bolt out without any damage to the crank cases.

I am sure you could have got a sump casting off Mac for not a lot of money

[tony.mon]

glad you got the bolt out without any damage to the crank cases.

I am sure you could have got a sump casting off Mac for not a lot of money

Yes, he would have sorted sump thing out.

[sirch345]

No wonder it sheared off. That must have been a right pain to release.

At least you have sorted out the little sucker now, well done
And it wont be niggling away at the back of your mind anymore

Chris.

[mjvw]

Thanks really pleased its out, I can now have choice of lowers. the full belly pan or the std cone or just go naked. The oil pan I got was a good (silly) price and was off a 2004 the part numbers is different for the 2002 onwards compared to the earlier models probably just a part number change but wanted to be sure it would be ok.