Odometer circuit current leak

[Keijo]

Hello

I have isolated a current leak to my odometer. Its about 1.8mA, the book says 0.1mA would be acceptable.
Problem persists with r/r and ignition switch disconnected.

I have tried to search but no help, someone mentioned to have a similar issue but that was not the subject of the thread, i think he had a r/r problem.

I have checked my r/r and it seems to almost check out, but from idle to 5000rpm regulated voltage actually dropped a little.

The r/r is a cheap Tourmax brand.

Battery is new.


Any ideas?

[Keijo]

Scored a '08 R1 fh012aa r/r from a breaker, its in the mail.
Ordered connectors from China, may take a week or two

[sirch345]

How accurate is your multi-meter

I guess the drain you have found is what keeps the trip meter memory going, otherwise without any power it zero's itself, as it does when the battery is disconnected.

From what you are saying the Tourmax R/R seems to be doing it's job so far okay, plus by disconnecting it would rule that out anyway.
What voltage figures are you getting at the battery when the engine is ticking over at idle with the headlights turned off (if that's possible of course)
If not what voltage figures with the headlight on

Chris.

[Keijo]

Thanks for replying mate!

Up
to three decimals depending on setting. It is a normal cheapo multimeter.

I think the same about the Tourmax but R1 r/r is now installed.

Idle voltages 14.44 without headlight, 13.91 with.

Still around 1.8mA over odo fuse.

Cant think of anything but going without the fuse

[popkat]

Does the bike have an imobilizer ?, what else is off this fuse, you need to isolate some more, 1.8ma will always cause you problems, need to find the cause


.

[Keijo]

Hi pop,

No it is a '97 model, no immobilizer. The cause is the odometer. Disconnecting the R/G wire behind clocks also eliminates the problem. Of course i opened up the clocks but everything in there seems absolutely mint.

[tony.mon]

Try another set of clocks.

[sirch345]

Thanks for replying mate!

Up
to three decimals depending on setting. It is a normal cheapo multimeter.

I think the same about the Tourmax but R1 r/r is now installed.

Idle voltages 14.44 without headlight, 13.91 with.

Still around 1.8mA over odo fuse.

Cant think of anything but going without the fuse

Those voltage figures seem to be right

Chris.

[Keijo]

Thanks everyone, maybe i try to get my hands on another set.

[sirch345]

After all this talk I decided to check the parasitic draw on my VTR this afternoon, as I have never checked it
The first attempt showed a 4.60 mA draw as below:

The second attempt was better at 0.52mA which was after I removed the fuse from the aftermarket alarm/immobiliser even though it was in an off state, at rest:

Chris.

[popkat]

A fair reading with a factory immobiliser would be about 0.3ma, your not far away Chris, if you’ve just got a lcd display maybe it’s still a little high. You can work out from the ma figure and the battery AH how long it will take for the battery to flatten from a set good voltage, 12.9 would be a good battery. I can’t remember off the top of my head the calculation but pretty sure Google will have it somewhere.


.

[sirch345]

A fair reading with a factory immobiliser would be about 0.3ma, your not far away Chris, if you’ve just got a lcd display maybe it’s still a little high. You can work out from the ma figure and the battery AH how long it will take for the battery to flatten from a set good voltage, 12.9 would be a good battery. I can’t remember off the top of my head the calculation but pretty sure Google will have it somewhere.


.

Thanks Malc for your reply
Yes I do only have the little lcd display for the odometer with the bike being the earlier version a 1999 model,

Chris.