Arghh - ANOTHER prob - Engine cutting out when put into gear

[chaz]

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/O ... 171097.asp

go to stand and part 1 $37.

problem being is the stand is forked and looses strength because of that, theory has it that the bolt should hold it together but any play in that pivot bolt will allow movement.

[Tempest]

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/O ... 171097.asp

go to stand and part 1 $37.

problem being is the stand is forked and looses strength because of that, theory has it that the bolt should hold it together but any play in that pivot bolt will allow movement.

Cheers for that link.
Yes, $37 official price, or Sevice Honda (discount seller) will do it for $27

Shame it's (current exhange rates) $87 to buy in the uk



On the stand front, I assume there is a technical reason (as my TDM Yamaha is exactly the same)
But they appear to have quite a large clearence gap between the forks at the top of the stand, and the plate that it bolts onto.

Meaning, you can get your stand and wobble it towards and away from you (in and out)

Not quite sure, what the thinking is behind that.

I'm tempted to put a spacer in to remove say 90% of the wobble.

Perpahs it's given the clearence to avoid it getting stuck when it gets road grime mixed in with the grease around the pivot point?

[sirch345]

On the stand front, I assume there is a technical reason (as my TDM Yamaha is exactly the same)
But they appear to have quite a large clearence gap between the forks at the top of the stand, and the plate that it bolts onto.

Meaning, you can get your stand and wobble it towards and away from you (in and out)

Not quite sure, what the thinking is behind that.

I'm tempted to put a spacer in to remove say 90% of the wobble.

Perpahs it's given the clearence to avoid it getting stuck when it gets road grime mixed in with the grease around the pivot point?

I had mine apart the other day, like yourself to give it a good clean and to see where all that slack you have mentioned above was coming from, it would appear (well on my bike anyway) that the hole for the main stand bolt (the bit which it fits through that's attached to the bike) has worn oval, hence the movement perhaps yours is the same

[Tempest]

On the stand front, I assume there is a technical reason (as my TDM Yamaha is exactly the same)
But they appear to have quite a large clearence gap between the forks at the top of the stand, and the plate that it bolts onto.

Meaning, you can get your stand and wobble it towards and away from you (in and out)

Not quite sure, what the thinking is behind that.

I'm tempted to put a spacer in to remove say 90% of the wobble.

Perpahs it's given the clearence to avoid it getting stuck when it gets road grime mixed in with the grease around the pivot point?

I had mine apart the other day, like yourself to give it a good clean and to see where all that slack you have mentioned above was coming from, it would appear (well on my bike anyway) that the hole for the main stand bolt (the bit which it fits through that's attached to the bike) has worn oval, hence the movement perhaps yours is the same

Good point....

Will have a look.

Being in Engineering, it will be easy to just re-drill the stand and support holes a little larger (to clean them up) and fit a larger bolt (or bush) in there.

Will report back

[chaz]

reason I suppose for making it that way is easier to weld a lug in the frame than two plates.
We had trouble with the bandit and its the same style of fitting allways has and allways will, even the Harleys in the garage but then they are better than the Ducati suicide springs they fitted.
Buy 10k worth of bike and a £1.50 bungee to keep the stand in place

[Tempest]

I had mine apart the other day, like yourself to give it a good clean and to see where all that slack you have mentioned above was coming from, it would appear (well on my bike anyway) that the hole for the main stand bolt (the bit which it fits through that's attached to the bike) has worn oval, hence the movement perhaps yours is the same

Had mine totally apart today, and my holes seem ok (to my eye)

Little wear on the bolt that goes thru the stand, but not bad.

Main reason for slack is the gap in the stand forks vs the thickness of the plate it bolts to.

Using feeler gauges, it seems I need a washer of 0.020" thick to take out the free play.
(Going to grind down a washer on works surface grinder tomorrow.)

Only thing is I can't find the torque settings for all the nuts and bolts down there.

[Geordie]

Old posting, but thought id resurrect it, as it perfectly describes my problem. Have had this intermittent fault a number of times and I have also changed the voltage reg about 600 miles ago, to an R1 model as suggested. Today as I was coming home, bike still cold, only travelled 2 miles if that and the bike runs rough during acceleration and the needles go all over the place, temp gauge to past the H mark, no indicators, gear indicator all over the place, bike still runs, but not well at all, then eventually dies and i coast to a halt. I have real throuble starting and with electrical faults all over the place, I leave it for 10 mins. Then as im kicking the stand switch as im tunring it over, it fires and everything is fine...
I think Ive got to get a new stand switch to rule it out, but it does appear as if there is some sort of voltage fluctuation, or would the intermittent stand switch be causing such wild movements in the gauges ??

I have used a multimeter and when it behaves it is a steady 14 v ..

Cheers

George

[Mr_Rusty]

Look at the wiring around the headstock as there is a known problem there where the wiring goes through a clamp and rubs through insulation causing a short, which tbh sounds very like the sort of problem you are having. I would not expect a side stand switch to cuase those sort of problems.

Chris

[sirch345]

Also you can do as Tempest did (he explains how in this topic) by-pass the stand switch before splashing out on a new one

As Mr_Rusty says it may not be the side stand switch.

Chris.

[Geordie]

yip, thats what the bike shop recommended, so now searching for a wiring diagram of the switch to figure out which wires to connect up, because im not sure its all three together ? I did see a diagram somewhere on here ..
Ill post how i get on.
Did examine the clocks for loose wires, etc but couldnt see nay, ill look again ..
Cheers folks
George

[Geordie]

well after checking every single wire and almost all sensors and switches as I could on the bike, the problem suddenly dawned on me ...
yes .. it was a poor earth. I only knew of 1 earth point at the voltage regulator and was thinking threre may be several, but i could only find 1 other earth at the thermo sensor on the left above the choke, which was ok.
About 2 months ago I got the whole rear subframe blasted and powered coated silver, looks great. I hadnt anticipated there being a problem with the grounding of the frame onto the chassis as the bolts ar the front were beefed up and i had thought that the threads (which were protected anyway from the powder coating) would have been scrapped back to bare metal as i tightened them up .. aparently not ..
Anyway I made up a sizable earth lead and bolted it o top of the earth bolt on the reg and attached the other end to the negative terminal of battery, and what do you know ... no problems, no weird dancing needles and indicators that pleased themselves...
The bike runs a whole lot better ...
Moral of story - check the obvious first, earths always seem to be the cause ...
Anyway im sure ill have some other problem next week ...
Cheers

George

[bikermike1411]

Nice one! Glad you sorted it!

[sirch345]

It's good to hear the outcome

Glad too hear you've found the problem even if it was self inflicted

Chris.