Will do when i get the time, got into cars now, got a monaro, 350hp at the mo but test drove one with a screw charger today and a quick shifter, my god is it fast. so quick shifter next week then save a few pennies (£5k) for the blower but over 500 hp aint to be sniffed at. does 0-60 sub 6 now and should be mid 4 to 5s with the blower. Not that i will be doing that, teachin meself to drift, always end up doing it at the wrong time at the mo and had some close calls with the cars with nasty stripes down the side.
All i have is the measurements, think it's travel per half turn and how much slack i give it for the spring to do it's job.
Whoever bought the vtr from Robin1000 (the streetfightered storm with the t6 pods as the dash) has this done to the cct's already as his bike had my engine in it.
CCT Problem Solved (100% guaranteed)
Del pity about the KTM, but at least you'll be safe on the scooter going to the Rockers Reunion at the Ace cafe nowadays 
I like black for a car or bike, but like white it needs to be kept clean
In your post about the CCT mod there's one thing that you've lost me on and that's the bit about the concave part of the CCT
I like black for a car or bike, but like white it needs to be kept clean
In your post about the CCT mod there's one thing that you've lost me on and that's the bit about the concave part of the CCT
Cheers for that Del,delmeekc wrote:when you take the (unscrew) worm type gear apart the inside of the receiving part is not flat at the bottom and is curved so depending on the diameter of the rod you use will determine how far it goes in as it will sit at a different depth, the thinner it is the further it will go in.
So from that (if I have it right) I presume as I have used a rod that is almost the same inside diameter of the plunger, that suitation will not apply, because the the rod can not move up and down very much
It just goes to show you can't assume anything 
I had been meaning to check that the rear CCT does the same as the front one but had not got around to doing it until now.
The front CCT slackens off approx 1/4 of a turn around the 3,000 rev's mark, but to my amazement the rear does completely the reverse, it tightens up Not that it will make any difference to the rod length required.
The only reason I can think off so far is that the rear CCT is operating on the under hung part of the camchain, where as the front CCT is operating on the top part of the camchain, what's your thought's on that theory then Del
Chris.
I had been meaning to check that the rear CCT does the same as the front one but had not got around to doing it until now.
The front CCT slackens off approx 1/4 of a turn around the 3,000 rev's mark, but to my amazement the rear does completely the reverse, it tightens up
Not that it will make any difference to the rod length required.The only reason I can think off so far is that the rear CCT is operating on the under hung part of the camchain, where as the front CCT is operating on the top part of the camchain, what's your thought's on that theory then Del
Chris.
Welcome aboard TempKiwi 
This is what I did, I think this is the same idea as Del's (delmeekc)
(1) Set-up engine on compression stroke at TDC aligning all timing marks just the same as if you were replacing the CCT's.
(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.
(The difference of 1/4 turn for the rear and 1/2 a turn for the front CCT is due to the fact that one CCT tightens up and the other slackens off when in use. So basically I've allowed 1/4 of a turn free play, allowing for expanding/shrinking of the different metals etc as they get hot when in use.)
(3) Next I removed the plunger pin so you can remove the plunger head see diagram below.
(4) You then need to work out what length rod you need to fill space 'A' see diagram. I used a piece of aluminium rod only a fraction smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger itself.
(5) Once you have the correct length rod you can then put it all back together.
Chris.
This is what I did, I think this is the same idea as Del's (delmeekc)
(1) Set-up engine on compression stroke at TDC aligning all timing marks just the same as if you were replacing the CCT's.
(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.
(The difference of 1/4 turn for the rear and 1/2 a turn for the front CCT is due to the fact that one CCT tightens up and the other slackens off when in use. So basically I've allowed 1/4 of a turn free play, allowing for expanding/shrinking of the different metals etc as they get hot when in use.)
(3) Next I removed the plunger pin so you can remove the plunger head see diagram below.
(4) You then need to work out what length rod you need to fill space 'A' see diagram. I used a piece of aluminium rod only a fraction smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger itself.
(5) Once you have the correct length rod you can then put it all back together.
Chris.
Last edited by sirch345 on Tue May 13, 2008 11:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Well my storm can be said to well and truly run in at 32,000 when the dreaded CCT death rattle hit me today. Thankfully doing 30 mph in a rural village as there where a mob of community speed enforcers in dayglo jackets holding what appeared to be tin cans on litttle sticks. Next time I see them they'll be surprised when I run over to them and give 'em all a hug.
Thankfully I hadn't put back on my Micron race pipes after a recent MOT so I had good notice of the first clatters with the stock pipes, intrigued I pulled the clutch in and pulled right over, amazingly right beside a phone box and pub having forgotten my mobile. In an hour recovered thanks to Bennets Insurance recovery and smoothly dropped of at Parkinson MC, from where I'd bought it 7 years ago with 6000, to sweat out the initial assesment from the mechanics.
Is there a definitive solution to this Honda flaw, homemade or Honda changes in design of afflicted parts, as the shop are ordering whatever Honda will shipout to replace what went kaput? - Front for sure and rear while they're poking into its innards.
Also was it coincidence that when I got home and had a sh1t I found my butt was bleeding
- too much detail I know but I've never heard it happen ever before in conjunction with a CCT failure.
Thankfully I hadn't put back on my Micron race pipes after a recent MOT so I had good notice of the first clatters with the stock pipes, intrigued I pulled the clutch in and pulled right over, amazingly right beside a phone box and pub having forgotten my mobile. In an hour recovered thanks to Bennets Insurance recovery and smoothly dropped of at Parkinson MC, from where I'd bought it 7 years ago with 6000, to sweat out the initial assesment from the mechanics.
Is there a definitive solution to this Honda flaw, homemade or Honda changes in design of afflicted parts, as the shop are ordering whatever Honda will shipout to replace what went kaput? - Front for sure and rear while they're poking into its innards.
Also was it coincidence that when I got home and had a sh1t I found my butt was bleeding
- too much detail I know but I've never heard it happen ever before in conjunction with a CCT failure.Are you absolutely sure it wasnt only your butt rattling and the bike is ok? See if honda can send a new foo foo valve for you at the same time they are sending the replacement cct's. You can probably find the answer to your questions earlier in this post or the millions of others on the forum. At least, thats what I did.
the cct problem has wombles me off to the limit
im selling mine as soon as
bought some springs, installed them, worked fine for a week and now i have the rattle again
im gonna try a longer bolt up the ccts butt to take out any slack and if that dont work, who needs bits? who wants a whole bike breaking?
im selling mine as soon as
bought some springs, installed them, worked fine for a week and now i have the rattle again
im gonna try a longer bolt up the ccts butt to take out any slack and if that dont work, who needs bits? who wants a whole bike breaking?